Tungsten

When locking the door with the pin down, you have to hold the handle UP dude, it says so in the manual.

or add some nice flares

FYI, if you are running too hot and know the cooling system is good, its probably the catalytic converter plugging up

want more? http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=224101&page=64

its not hitting the crossmember but rubbing against the side of the weird round thing (the pipe is bent around it)

FOUND IT!!! I blame Nissan for the stupid ass design. The bended pipe section (where the O2 sensor is) is hitting the frame when the engine shakes. So what now? Can I heat wrap it so when it rubs the impact absorbs?

ill check ASAP but banging on it just makes a hollow sound like banging on an empty pipe which is what it should sound like as theres no debris in it (hopefully all debris was trapped in the old cat) im thinking its the 2.25 to 2.00 flange thats causing all the racket

OH DAMN IT!!! My old catalytic converter apparently was broken at the inlet, when I took it out a bunch of core material which was trapped at the bottom of the converter came out from the in side. The outlet was clean so I assume nothing traveled into the muffler. So I got the catalytic converter replaced with a Magnaflow one and here is my setup: Doug Thorley Short Tube Headers 2.00" Piping 2.00" Magnaflow Catalytic Converter 2.00" Flowmaster 60 Delta Flow muffler Now I have a big problem, there is a rattling sound whenever I step on the gas pedal in Drive after standing on the brakes at a traffic light. It only happens under load and mostly when the truck is warm. I don't have any heat shields, except on the catalytic converter which is brand new now. The crossover pipe fitting is tack welded and the muffler is welded as well. All I could come up with was the flanges between the 2.00" and 2.25" may not be lining up but then that has a new gasket. The other flange after the midpipe was redone and has a new gasket as well. Could my crossover pipe be hitting against the frame? Is the muffler underrated for the V6? I'm going nuts here... Also, the knock sensor hears this banging and detects it as a knock causing my engine to bog down.

its not off you get that because of your 31" tires

there aren't many options for the truck to begin with but you get for what you pay for just don't be like this guy here

there are marks on the damper, use those the damper is keyed, the pulley may be off, i had that problem, just made new marks on the pulley btw, the correct setting is 15 degrees BTDC thats where you can get peak torque of ~180 ft/lbs

tack welds + silicone seal + clamp = works great now i just replace the cat and hope the core didn't break apart and jam the muffler EDIT: cat is all good, muffler is clean

i replaced the entire high pressure line without taking anything out you can do it a week later my power steering pump exploded and made a nice oily mess under the hood replaced that as well with a reman and hadn't had an issue since

my buddies 01 qx4 does the same thing i thought it was the alternator pulley bearing seizing

whats wrong with the stock intake seems like an efficient design to me maybe the ribbed tubing sucks but other than that the layout is fine

if you want headers, go thorley all way you can get the shorties for $400 shipped trust me you don't want to deal with any other brand i have thorleys and even those caused me issues first i couldn't find the right clamp for the slip fitting second they blew out and destroyed the stock cat right now i'm waiting for a new catalytic converter to come in and just hope that the catalyst has not traveled into my flowmaster 60

thats a locker jk a locker is a device on the rear differential that can lock the axle shafts together so that they spin at the same speed therefore defeating the purpose of a differential (basically a differential canceller) this is done so that both wheels receive the same amount of power since a differential transmits more power to the wheel with less grip

fan clutch easy job, i did it myself in one hour

i just got a universal one for $60, also from magnaflow i don't live in calicake so mine is cheaper and i didn't get flanges, i already had enough fun dealing with 2 of them just cut and weld http://www.amazon.com/MagnaFlow-53004-Universal-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B000COWZRU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

tried that i found out my problem first of all i should have replaced the catalytic converter i didn't want to do it because this one passed the inspection and it looked really clean inside what happened was the catalyst material inside got dislodged and is now bouncing around in there

alright i put some tack welds on it and some silicone tack welds are easy to snap when you have to BUT THE SOUND IS STILL THERE well i found out that the catalytic converter dislodged itself inside and now is bouncing around in there looked clean but wtf its broken and its tripping my knock sensor

UPDATE ok so i got the flowmaster 60 on there with new gaskets and all that and the sound is still there im guessing it is the slip fitting and it needs some silicone in there this vibration also trips the knock sensor and causes the engine to act funny

what did you do?! now all the gaskets are good and its still doing that alright its definitely the slip fitting at the crossover pipe let me get some copper silicone in there and see what happens

i have the same damn noise problem and i do have headers and the new turbo studs i highly suspect its a gasket problem because the noise is coming from the floor this week ill be getting my new flowmaster 60 installed so ill try it then

maybe you were climbing a hill?