Tungsten

If you have a high mileage engine, it is the lifters acting up on cold starts. Check your engine bay for black spots, if you have a leaking manifold you will see carbon deposits where the leaks are. If there aren't any leaks, don't worry about it.

Here is what I do when it is very cold outside: Keep that starter spinning until the engine revs to 1k rpm then you can let go and it will start fine. If you have a serious flooding problem, it might be the coolant temp sensor.

you have to adjust the steering stops when using 31s on pathfinders that did not come with 31s my 91 came with 31s and ive been using 31s forever now without any clearance issues

x2 I am running a 2.00" system and Precise1 (also on this board) has a similar 2.25" setup. The Thorley headers exit in 2.25" but you need to build your own 2.25" pipe with gaskets and all that which is the reason I chose to stick with 2.00" all the way as it was readily available.

www.magnaflow.com

The V6 is built for reliability, not performance. It has a relatively low compression ratio and tiny intake and exhaust valves. While high compression motors will be choking on carbon deposits, my VG30E will take on anything. The only reason our V6 is of such small displacement is because of international tax codes regarding large displacement engines. Nissan wanted to sell the truck worldwide so they had to keep it under 3.0L. So yes the only option remaining is to swap in an American V8 crate engine and be done with it.

well all oil is synthetic its just that the regular oil is waxy and has bigger molecules than synthetic does right now i'm running that 5000 mile oil from mobil1 which is pretty good (2000 miles and still clean and translucent) i'm thinking about just switching to mobil1 synthetic in my next oil change, i think it would be safe to do it

from my experience i am able to answer some of your questions if you lost your tailpipe, chances are that the rest of your exhaust is rusted out as well and yes it can impact the mpg depending on where it rusted the sloshing squishing sound is from that big black carbon canister, there is a way to clean that thing get a good mechanical fan clutch for the summer (dealer is best for this or you can buy a beck arnley replacement one but it will take quite a while to shut off in the winter), don't bother with electrical unless you want to put in a bigger alternator as well

bah glasspacks...get a real chambered muffler the stuff inside a glasspack will break down over time while a strong chambered muffler like flowmaster or thrush will last forever

pathfinder calipers are plenty strong you should get a good set of rotors and a good set of pads for example i run brembo rotors and akebono ceramic pads

lol my brake wear indicators broke off and i drove on low pads for thousands of miles before the metal started grinding and ate up the rotors i had to do a repair to the right torque member because the bolt in it got welded in from the heat

That makes sense, something is messing with the power steering pump and putting too much load on the engine.

Does anyone know anything about that tube which sits right above the fan shroud? What function does it serve? On a dealer parts website like courtesyparts.com its called an intake resonator. Mine is a little warped at the connector where it goes to the air box. Can I get rid of this thing completely? What would be the drawbacks or benefits?

OH @!*%!!!!!!!!!!!! what about using AMSOIL?! http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/amsoil_articles/amsoils-big-competitors/ and what to use for oil filter? wix?

well i'm running brand new seals here so i guess ill try mobil 1 synthetic

Well I have had a new timing belt since the summer of 2009 and along with that new cam seals and a new rear main seal. The engine was always well on schedule with the oil changes but the oils have been different (they were all 5W-30 as far as I know). Last time I put in regular Mobil high mileage oil, the 5W-30 kind as recommended by the manual. I have no problem with buying synthetic I just want the engine running smoothly but have heard that there are drawbacks to using synthetic. I do get the occasional lifter tick on cold starts since the engine has so many miles on it already. So what is the best oil to use on this rig?

yep the more pressure, the louder the clicks lol

yep make sure its a regular one, not one with bolts in it you will not like it when its cold lol btw if you are changing the timing belt, do it then with the water pump and the rest

nope its not the exhaust tick lifters or fuel injectors i don't think that revving in park would make the fuel injectors tick the ECU is smart and would not waste so much gas when the engine is not under load

well if your starter worked great and suddenly died then its the battery my old starter started making funny sounds before i swapped it out with a dealer one no issue till today, its a much quieter starter too

i like my current one because it is serviceable, there are bolts holding it together and you can take it apart and change the oil inside i think the OEM one is sealed/welded with electric, you are running into a possibility of frying the already weak alternator or just overheating the truck if you go off-road, you will be glad to have a mechanical fan

ok well apparently these things come in different temp ratings one i have is for a warmer climate because the oil is thicker inside i tried touching the fan clutch with a cigarette lighter to warm it up first and it worked lol

I don't know if this is normal but for some reason when its cold out my fan clutch does not release the fan on a cold start. During a cold start I can hear the fan for about 20 miles down the road before its quiet again. If I blow on the fan clutch with a hair dryer before starting it unbinds and then it works good. In the summer it would unbind instantly at startup but when it got colder out its being a pain in the neck. This is a Beck Arnley replacement and it has worked wonderfully in the summer. I replaced my stock one a while back because that one would bind no matter what and I don't want to go electric because I don't like the drawbacks associated with it. Perhaps I still need to break it in? I think it has been like 3000 miles already.

Yep! That fixed it, thanks! Feels a bit different but it pulls like a train now in the 2500-3500 range.

you can always wire it to a 50 amp circuit breaker