MaritimeMan

Called one of Uniden's retailers and they have never even heard of this model. I have a feeling it's outside US only. Hmmmmmmm........

Uniden scanning CB From all the searching I've done, I can only find them for sale in Australia. I wonder if they're leagal to use in the US, with the scanning feature and all. I wouldn't mind gettin my hands on one of thses bad boys either way. Might have to make a few calls. or better yet, emails, cheeper, heh. M.M.

Hopefully, you didn't hose the plug when you put the impact on it. If you bugger that up, you're gonna have a heck of a time gettin it off. Hit it with some PB blaster, let it soak in for an afternoon, or over night, come back and hit it squarely with a larger hamer a few times. I had the same problem and this trick freed it right up. The hammer part is the trick, it tends to break free whatever is holding the dirty bugger in place. Good luck. M.M.

I went with a 40 and I love it. Sounds good when your on it, but not so loud and raspy when constant rpm's on the freeway. That gets really annoy on the 12 hour drive to Seattle.

Old Metallica, hell yes, Load and newer, not really.

Yeah, I'm goin to school in Vallejo. B and I have hung out a couple times, but I thinks it's my turn to head over to his town heh. I got a job commercial fishing in Alaska, but I can't get home to Seattle cause my truck won't let me.

HOLY CRAP YOU'RE ALIVE!!!! Man I thought you were dead or something, long time no hear. Yes, I'm still in Cali, no I don't want to be here anymore. Talk to ya later bud.

where did you buy it? Most places have a road hazzard warrenty where the remaining tread of the tire is factored in, and you get a discounted or free tire. Call the place where you bought it from, just don't tell em it happed off road, most places void the warrenty if it occurs off road.

Hey is that the Panhard drop bracket Precise made, or a different one? And where can I get one?

Was just wondering. I went and checked mine out, and almost started laughing. I called her a car (LOL), and made a list of the mods I wanted to do. The pics are all completely stock, heck I even still have the under bumper stock fogs on her still (broke those off shortly after the pics were taken) Wonder if I sent an update to Mr. Jim if he would update it.

It'll go for a ways before it completely wets the bed. I think I got almost 10k out of her, from when I put in the GL-5 and she started actin up. If you have the tranny out already, that bearing is easy. If you don't, well takin it out is fun, fun, fun. Just make sure you have a free night or two, and about a case of beer.

I agree, that the Calamini lift does fit nice. I have it and love it. Have you had any problems with caster when getting it aligned? I have been and am now getting longer bolts to attach the UCA to the rig. Might be worth lookin into, as I could only get a few threads in witht he stock bolts, and ened up rippin one out. Don't want to scare you, just make you aware. Enjoy, it looks great. M.M.

I have heard of them, but haven't had any experience with them. They make a ton of stuff for jeeps and what not. If I remember right, I heard they were decent. No matter what, I would never order the AC. Period. I will never have anything to do with that company rever again. Just plain crappy6 products that fit like dog poo.

Line X is better and cheeper than the Rhino lining, in all the experiences I've had, and we deal with Line X quite a bit at my work.

Oh, or you could try a bearing puller, but it's gonna be tough to find one with jaws long enough to fit over the input shaft.

I didn't really pay attention to which way the bearing comes out. Since under the front cover plate is a Jesus clip holding it from goin into the casing, I'd imagine it goes in that way. If you already have the tranny out, it is really easy to pull apart to inspect inside. Under the front cover, you have to take off a Jesus clip on the main bearing and the main shift fork, along with the main shift fork's spacer. The spacer looks like a washer. After that, look on the passenger side towards the top on the front half of the housing, you'll see 2 bolts which appear to be retaining a plate. Pull these two bolts and use a screw driver to pop the retainer out. You'll hear a ball bearing drop. Not worries, you'll have it apart in a few more minutes, just make sure you find it. Be careful with that plate, it has a spring inside one of the bolt holes, and when putting it back on, insert the retainer, then the ball bearing, spring, then bolt. After you get the retainer off, take an appropriate sized drift to drive out the pin on the main shifter, right where the shift stick goes in. Try not to drive it all the way out, cause if you drop it, you'll have to find that too. Now that the shifter reciever is free from it's shaft, begin pulling all the bolts on the adapter plate. It's the approx 1" plate right in the middle of the tranny, seperating the 2 halfs. All your gears are affixed to this plate, and with a soft hammer tap each half off the adapter plate. Just like that, your tranny is open for inspection. The main bearing can be driven out with a piece of wood, and installed similarly. I still have my old one sitting in pieces in my garage, so if you need a few pics along with this explaination, I'm sure I could drum some up or just scam the FSM and email em to ya. Good luck, the hard part is done by pullin it out, the fun part is putting it back in.

check ebay, it seems ones go on there all the time for a good price.

just asked my buddies at the dealership, there is not a specific rebuild kit that they make for the starter, but if you tear it open and see whats worn, you can get the individual parts. BTW, our starter are pretty cool, they have a planetary gear system. Cool beans.

usualy rebuilds are alot cheeper than a reman. A FSM definately helps. It just depends on how much time and effort you want to put into it.

hehe, dirty contacts on the starter. I pulled it and cleaned everything with a wire brush, started right up.

perfect, thanks Aaron

oh yeah, 91 SE 4WD

vehicle condition aside, I say leave the exhaust. It can be a very labor intensive project, especially if one of the studs is broken off in the head. Tell the guy what it is when you do sell it, as it's the honest thing to do, but I wouldn't worry too much about it detracting too much from the sell price. I decided to tackle mine once and for all, and ended up pullin the motor just to get to a stud busted off in the head about 1/4 inch. Good luck.

1991, SE 4WD I need some one to go and take a gander at the passenger side of the xfer case. I have two sensors, each with two wires comming out of them, for a grand total of 4 harnesses. I have two on the incomming wiring harness, and I need to know how to connect them. The wires off the main harness are yellow and black, the yellow being a female harn, and the black male. Thanks, shout if you need more description.

Ok first off, check the post I made in general, I need a look at someone's xfer case for harness info. Ok, it's all back together, and no juice. Battery is solid. I checked as much as I could and everything is back together properly. Here's the kick. When I turn the ignition to the ON position, I get an electronic chime comming from the instrument cluster. It goes 8 times, every time. Any one ever heard of this before? I have never noticed this chime, and since I don't even get a solenoid click from the starter, it has me wondering. Any help would be sweet, or questions pertaining to what I did to catch up on the same page. Thanks. M.M.