max_stryker

that would cost entirely too much money. -new headlights new corner markers new bumpers new hood new fenders new turn signals =lots of $

Just JY it - Ive picked up a full front for $200 (all 4 pieces) several times lol

Hmm....Ill have to further ponder this and get back to you, meanwhile - someone else might ave ideas

Check the battery connection at both ends. Specifically the ground connection. Since all power is dead it probably isnt an iginition switch. Have you been wheeling lately? If yes: In watery conditions? If so, check the alternator - could be dead. Its been known to happen. When you turn the key over do you hear ANY noises whatsoever? Let us know. Good luck with the diagnosis

Theres tons of threads available on this topic. But to save you time since im bored. The most common size wheel for a 32x11.50 is a 15x8 with 3.75" of backspacing (like yove states its a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

Luker u want me to bring up that guts out of the 233 rear i have?

bmws suck.

shoot scott - glad everyones OK. if you need help with anyone lemme know. im like an hour away....give or take

well my rule is hand tighten and then back just a smidgen - its quite hard to get filter wrenches up there (depending on which one you have) i would definately see if u can twist it off by hand first

eh just take the back seats out and grab a cheapie set from wally world

when you hit the brake pedal there should be a little click, releasing the trans so you can shift into gear....do u hear that noise every time or is it intermitant?

those are PIAA bulbs incase you were wondering - as far as "performance" lights go these are ridiculous, i do alot of night driving with the lights on and these have lasted me nearly 2 years. (which is crazy, since like silverstars and stuff only last like 4 months)

HAHA. guessing usually does cost a nice chunk of change lol. glad everything is fixed.

i bet you simon is right - when i go wheelin and hit up the mud and trump through ruts and what not i managed to pinch those in - i just get in from the inside and pull them back out

id like to see a pic of that door....cuz mine are completely dented to hell and i dont need new doors....

this is just a basic wiring diagram. things are fairly labeled. Just remember to interupt power with a switch. you dont have to ground to the battery. that is just a suggestion. you dont need to ground the switch either - but if you have one that lights up - then i would ground it. obviously the sieze of things are not to scale - i did this for ease. i recommend some sort of fuse but its not completely neccesary. to wire in a fuse - use the same concept as the switch. you also dont NEED a relay.

i will do a better ms paint job than what i just sent you and post it up here for reference

because it happened 10 months before u joined?

I got a starter too....

dan that is pressure washed lol

if you were ever dumb enough to try and steal mine...id say go have fun killing yourself...

its it more liquidy...or more greasy like.... check the boot on the outside there (just in from the inner tie rod) and the boots going across the rack. wear a white latex glove to determ what kind of stuff is leaking....(you said puddle so im thinking ps fluid) but any details on coloration?...could be as simple as windshield wiper fluid leaking across and down onto the rack..other than that....i would check your oil levels

(passanger side) (drivers side)

some better pics, sorry for the dirty, the big bar is the sway bar hope thats a better reference for you

No...they are not difficult at all...just undo the clip to the harness, turn the plastic piece that holds the bulb in. pop the bulb out, pop new one in, hook harness backup. *goes to snap pic for lack of better explaination*