Casey.T

Where in North Idaho???? Its just across the way from me here in Spokane... Locker in Mud would be ideal, 33x10.5 wont eat your CL as fast as the 12.5's but its still gonna get eatin.... Kinda wishing I had gone 32x10.5...

What is your timing set at??? I know that if mine is around 10 to 12 its a fat pig from the light... 15 to 17 its johny on the spot...

LMAO!!!! Nat you get the Golden Noob Award!!!!! Back Spacing on the WD21's for a 8" wide rim should be around 4" click the Cragar Link in my sig for the ones im running. Less than 4" they really stick out, more than 4" and they will rub in the fenderwells, frame ect... There is a video floating around here somewhere of a Pathy bottoming out the front suspension and mashing his fenderwells up...(im off and searching for it) I believe that was with 3" BS... Hope that answers your question for now... Please feel free in the future to GG all you want.....

Dont forget to bring your Metric Cresent Wrench... Bucket of Jet/Prop Wash Remove and Replace Steering Wheel Actuator.... My Fav was Out Field Finder(id's friend or foe) in op in OFF position.....

Them Vacuum lines are important for it to run correctly.... You can adjust the timing via the distributor, a little bit at a time until you can get around to throw a light on it... You could also be lucky like I was and be off a couple of teeth... talk about fun trying to figure out...

Next step for me would be checking Vacuum lines, with the age of our rigs they wont last forever...

Shame on you Trail.... Your giving me ideas.... *Must Focus on Winter Project....

If I were to buy new tires for my 91, I would go with 32x10.5.... As it is running the 33x9.5's I rub a little when flexing with 4" of back spacing... I think your 5" back spacing will rub alot more than what I do...

VG30DE for your DOHC... VG34E??? 3.3 Block with 3.0 Heads...

Depending on price... I might make a road trip... Granted it would most likely be a Rental....

Code 53.... 37 would be more interesting though...

Im Serious....

Ill take 2 with an option for a 3rd please....

Pull the 2 14mm bolts that hold the starter in place, slide the starter forward so that you can get a big flat tip screwdriver into the teeth on the flywheel, slowly apply pressure until the screwdriver locks in place thus locking the crank.... Do the same thing to re-torque the bolt.... Oh ya, this has been addressed several times....

You dont have to loosen any of the transmission mounting bolts... As for the tranny lines, take out the 10mm bolt that holds them to the bracket on the oil pan just above the CL... you have to take that bolt out to get enough play in the lines to pull the starter out the front... Notice my lines are still in the above pic.... If you can move the small backing plate, you can get a socket on the Torque Converter bolts.

After you pull the backing plate for the Starter, there is a little piece that goes on the lower portion of the bell housing and over a portion of the starter hole.... Once you got that out you will need about 2' of extensions and a 14mm socket.... run it out over the CenterLink... they are Locktited in.... Get the 4 bolts out, and leave the Torque Converter in place....

Earth.... You want to go look at that for me??? *Triple checks the Weather..... short trip back to Spokane....

I originally bought a Wally World Metric Set, then I got a second one thats in the back of the Pathy... Then I got some nice Craftsman Metric wrenches... If I find im missing something I need... Ill go shopping as needed...

McBane..... hehe sorry, could not resist...

This is what I found under my hood one day....

Got a welder??? I did.... Only future challenge would be having to remove both drop downs...

Timing Belt....

Dunno... Photobucket is free... I did it...

Hes got you blocked...

If you want to buy that, I have a Bridge just outside of SF ill sell you, Real Cheap.....