Casey.T

The flanges that mate with the head are not flat... They are slightly raised around the exhaust ports... Use a gasket, then retorque after about 500 miles(cant remember, but its close)... Rust??? The Chrome finishing process some times will leave reisdue... It gets dipped and a big Vat of extreamly caustic chemicals... See if you can clean it off with some windex...

if your going to be lifting the front above the stock ride heigth I would recomend aftermarket UCA... Do a Search on UCA -bounce-

I would have to say Yes... the calmini t-bars have a 30% higher spring rate, so instead of having 2.03" showing on the adjusting bolt provided you put it back in at the same angle they came out... you will have about 1.2" for the same amount of lift, the front end will also be stiffer... I had to play with mine to make sure the adjusting bolts were recessed inside the crossmember.... There are some pictures of it on here some where... just over 1 year ago...

You can crank the new t-bars quite abit... I have about 1.5" of clearance on the stock bump stops, and have not encountered a loss of traction due to anything other than.... cant believe im going to type this.... STUPIDITY The UCA's correct the angle on the Ball Joint so that you can lift it, via adjusting the t-bars. Get them, get grease zerk's installed on them (unless you like Squeaks), I still need to do that... and play with your ride heigth.... At the end of this years hunting season I may actully drop my front end 1/2"

WTF??? :oops: All the Detail on the outside, and the only visible item under the hood is the Pop Charger..... IMO the $$$ would have been better spent else where.....

Thow on some Thorleys to

Dibs if they dont work on your r50 BTW please fill in your location ect on your profile

Could also be a loose connection, I was having a intermitant, sometime it would start or just go click, click... I think the longest I spent waiting for it to start was about 10 min.... Alway was able to get it to start. I pulled the starter assuming it was bad, took it in to Shucks and had them bench test it, it was good much to my surprise... So i cleaned all the connections between the Battery and the Starter, re-installed and it has been fine ever since....

I dont think there is really a difference... I have the DTE-464-2 on my Auto, Slick has them on her Stick... I have wondered if they would fit on a 3.3... I think the headers would fit just fine, it will be the drop downs/cross over pipe that will give you a headache

Constant, if the handle is even lifted a bit.... Kids always in a hurry racing to see whos first... Rule no touching the handles until I say open it...

Bone Stock 88SE with 29" tires Went every where I needed to go.... 95SE Stock with 31" Went every where I needed to go, I just did not like the redneck pin striping hence the: 91XE with 3" SL and 33x9.5" goes every where I need to go and a few places I probably should not go, Like the ATV Trail up the hill to the old Main Access road that was blocked to vehical traffic... No formal road closure just limited access... as for the pin striping, I dont care on this one -bounce- If it gets broken I have the 95 to drive to work on monday

You guys are going to make me take mine apart and re-inspect everything... I also have a set of cams out of my fried heads....

Im thinking that it was a hairline fracture in the Rad from your accident... BTW it takes about 15 min to pull the radiator...

Distributor and Pathy Injectors... did not want to rewire all the Max stuff... Thats about all I swapped out... Added in some Thorleys... Its definately got more power than my 95... Then again it always did even with the old motor without the thorleys.....

I have seen 3/4 ton pickup's flipped upside down.... Instead or air use a flamable gas.... Waits for the ATF knock

On*Star..... hehe I have a GPS on my list....

Over inflate 15" or bigger truck tire (150psi) High Caliber rifle @ 500 yards......

Small CO2(the ones used in Daisy air pistols) pop the top after its expended..... fill with black powder/ red/green/blue dot smokeless powder.... Cannon fuse and run like hell....

Micky BIG Mouth filled with 87 octane and a 15 min road flare........

2 liter pop bottle and some dry ice.......

Auto's in and out of 4wd when ever and where ever I like... Dont even have to get out of the rig......

If your rig is starting to run hotter than nomal.. lots of uphill stuff... you can turn the AC off and turn the Heater on... This will also bleed off some of the heat in the cooling system... It is also an indicator if the motor is hot and no heat coming out the vents that your low on coolant.... Pathfinders tend to develop air bubbles in the cooling system if they are ran hot...

When I swapped the pump and belt on my 95 I ran it with the covers off.....

I removed the little bull horn under the hood on the drivers side....

Should be 6 little bolts that hold the lower crank pully to the HB.... Also sugest using some PB on the end of the crank....