SteeevO

yeah thats what i was affraid of. but also... am i supposed to be tightening the nuts in a certain order?..and how tight is it supposed to be anyways?... i never had this much trouble when i first put the thorleys on...

So i replaced the gasket...and did the leak stop?....of course not... this time insted of shutting the hell up for a few days.. it just got louder..something is seriously wrong here... oh well everytihng i guess is gonna get torn appart and it's all gonna be taken care of... i mean everything http://forums.4wdandsportutility.com/70/11...uild/index.html

yup...i got the e-mail..

Just wanted to announce that once again my thorleys are spitting exhaust out at the head.... anyone else have these things come loose as often as i??... if i'm going to tear this thing appart again i'm going to know the method to fix it once and for all... any sugestions?. i'm thinking that i am going to replace all the studs and use all new nuts and factory washers.. and use the thorley gasket...if that doesn't do it then i'm revamping everything... VG3.3, computer, P&P, SAS, atlas 4SP, 35's, hydraulic ram steering, but i'll kep the thorleys... then i'll be soo happy about everything else that a exhaust leak won't bother me... -Steeevo (written with sarcasm...but please send sugestions)

what you you mean by preload from the screw?

so the intake is the same size??... jeez no wonder the 3.3 hardly puts out anymore hp than the 3.0 when stock. So what we are looking at here is getting the 3.3 TB and getting a pipe and large filter like this.... one from AEM AEM makes a intake system for the 3.3 with a new pipe

how do you know how tight to go?

will the TB and intake manifolds bolt up from a 3.3? cause there is a junk yard like 15 min away from here.. also spencer low will machine the 3.3 TB's bigger but i was wondering why not just use the 3.3 stock tb on a 3.0?? will it bolt up? what parts of the 3.3 intake system will directly bolt up to the 3.0? I'm going to have to think up a whole new intake system for our engines. one that goes more in depth then just bolting on a cone...

today at work i ran accross a magazine article that began talking about adjusting your steering box when it loosens up then went into rebuilding the box.. the thing that caught my eye was the adjustment.. i know my box isn't out but it's getting lots of play in it... i doubt it was ever adjusted.. so i was looking in the FSM and i wasn't understaning the measurment that are used to properly adjust this thing... has anyone adjusted thier power steering box before?? i can give specifi examples of what the FSM is saying if needed. thanks for the help.

the manifold is comming off my other engine tonight.. i'm going to swap out these parts when i replace my knock sensor...

if i bore it out won't it throw off the MAF??? cause more air wil be going through than th MAF thinks?

i built a PA for mine.. i posted pics a long time ago somewhere.. but i'm pushing about 50 watts from under the hood with a hailer speaker froma cruise ship the amp circuit i used is capble of pushing 75 watts... but thats just crazy

i had an extra so i figured i'd polish it and see what happens.. i'm also thinking about getting a TB spacer and cone filter.. hopefully will get some more poweer to the ground..

2.5" inch all the way frin the headers. you won't be dissapointed

since the stud doesn't bottom out the bolt can spin either way... i'd rather have it spin out... but hey what ever works for you

3.3 Dyno results.. but who says a 3.0 can't come close? SLR Headers -> Dyno results show 14 HP with stock air box. Combined with the SLR iV Air Cleaner System and Cat Back Exhaust, there is a 35 HP gain. Results may vary from vehicle to vehicle. SLR-> Our aFe iV Air Cleaner System increases performance by reducing air cleaner resistance. The specially designed Venturi air horn adapter further eliminates air restrictions and allows for even greater flow with less intake turbulence. Alone, this kit adds 9 HP. When used with our Gibson Cat Back Exhaust Systems, it adds up to 21 HP. This unit has been flow tested and run on a DYNO to achieve optimum performance. Includes service kit. This unit replaces the complete stock air filter box. SLR Large bore throttle body-> Larger bore diameter = more air, more fuel, more horsepower. No computer upgrades are necessary with this self-adjusting throttle plate. Adds 25 HP when used with our cams. SLR Cams-> (smaller than JWT cams use JWT cams for more power??) 262 Performance Cams (.430 / 2620) JWT Computer upgrade ->10HP?? DRR-> intake polish and heads P&P..

how i have done these in the past is to use a reverse drill bit and drill into the middle of the stud with the drill in reverse. then as the bit snags on the metal as you go in it is applying torque to extract it and not tighten it.. sometimes if you are lucky it'll snag and come all teh way out.. if not then use the SQUARE EZ outs. and it's not that big of a deal.

i say you leave iit like it is. no tubes like ARB.. thse frigg'n tubes is what is keeping me from buying that thing. and as for the side leave them like they are that way people can cut thier fenders for tire size reasons. in short my opinion is you are on the right track.. but it would be cool if you can get a winch in there.

exactly what i am switching to...bolts

umm yeah i have had the thorleys on there for about a year now... the stud still broke...

pssd so yeah i noticed this tapping sound.. and since i don't have tools right now i figured i'd just take it to the local exhaust shop (cause they are cool guys that know whats going on) and they found the leak.. they said the stud was missing.. then i asked is it missing or did it break off in there?.. the answered most likely fell out.. so i drove another 10min away and went to my dads friends shop to use the tools in the back and then i found that the stud is busted off in there... so now i get to take off the header on that side to replace one !@#$ stud. and now it will be more challenging because i'm 4WD now and i have that diff in the way from reaching right up there from the bottom... :furious: Why did i want 4wd again?? dang..atleast it'll payoff this winter..

the bushings in your steering system must be shot.. you also might want to get a steering stabilizer.

welp my floor still heats up and i have had to different engines in there so it's jsut the headers i'm just going to have a heat shield made. and rivted to the floorpan. the casue of the fire was the heat melted insulation off of the speaker wire i had under there.. bare live wires + carpet = lots of smoke and fire.. it was crazy but i rerouted my wires and laid dynamat down to help with sound/ insulation.. it helps a little but the headshield should to the trick. bte my pathy is alot quieter now.. i ust need to cover the sides of the pathy where the rear speakers are and the back hatch and roof.. then it should be much quieter.. if you are having the sulfer smell your cat is cloged.. get a new one.

i think that if there are people out there that are willing to go through the trouble of building a scam product for a vehicle like a pathfinder, then obviously there must be enough of a demand for someone to build a legit product... where's the aftermarket for these things? we do need power too!!

3" lift with the p235's won't be bad. i have a 3" SL and 30's whic h isn't much larger it's just fine.