SteeevO

went to change to oil today and noticed that my CV boots are shot.. the greaewe was slattered everywhere underneath... so the dealer is gonna out in an order for 2 new inner CV boots in the morning. for the kit it's $40 per boot... are there aftermerket cv boots? and also do i have to remove the whole rotor and spindle assy. to replace the boots?? if i do that sucks cause i just got all the 4WD conversion done a few weeks ago...now i gotta tear it all back appart again this weekend

extreme: where were you looking to see the differences? FYI i'm running the CA ECU w/ the FED engine, or atleast the title from the donor vehicle of the engine said FED on it but i got the pathy and it had cali plates...

i just got done reading some smog stuff for cali and found out that an engine that was in a FED vehicle cannot be put into a CA vehicle... ooops... i recently did that not knowing that that was illeagal... i know that the emissions equipments is different on CA and FED pathys but what specifically is different? am i in big trouble? or screwed for next time i have to get it smoged? and will i pass smog with a hybrid vg30/vg33 engine?

i have gotten these before also... go to the dealer.. it's a dealer only part i believe. they can pull up diagrams of the entire pathy for you. including all the linkage in the door. the dealer will take care of you .. taht part will cost like $2

top tranny bolts... a really long extension with a swivel on the socket end. in the FSM i think it says to drop the entire thing together...but.. i think thats insane.. i would pull the t-case first then the tranny.

Who makes one??

the wrench will fit going in from teh top of the LCA it won't fit on square but it will be enough to get it off and back on again later

the 3 nuts on the LCA where the torsion bar meets the LCA need to be taken off or atleast loosened. for somereason the torsions won't come out unless you do that.. as far as the drive shaft bolts... when the impact doesn't work.. ditch it and use the proper socket and breaker bar to bust it loose.. then use the impact to quickly remove it the rest of the way...

mine burbed alot with the rad cap off i tried doing it with the burper valve. but i was unsure if it was the correct screw. the one i was looking at was right next to an electrical connection. it was straight down on top i loosned it but it diddn't seem like it was opened enough for it to do it's thing so i did it the rad cap way.. which did help but i'm unsure still if i got it all..

ok i burped it....alot... and it helped but i think the fan clutch is done... so i'm thinking i'm gonna squeeze one of these under the hood http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html i hope it'll fit. i'm gonna have to come up with bracketing ideas case i think it's a lil too wide

so i burped it... it seemed like it took a long time for the t-stat to open to where you see the fluid level drop and start to circulate. but the burping did help however i don't think i did it long enough . how long should i be trying to burpit after the t-stat opens up? basically how long does it take for all the fluid to ciculate once completely.

one more thing does the refigerant ever just get old so it doesn't do as good of a job? so should it all be taken out and replaced with new stuff or will be making ure it's full be the same thing?

oh yeah and my radiator was flushed last summer and the fins are all in good shape

it seems like it holds just fine.. because my a/c blows cool air it's just not cold.. after 15 years i would expect to have it recharged...the cool air isn't enough to make a difference so i end up having the windows rolled down when it's 105 outside..not too fun but bearable

i have already swapped out the fan clutch but i don't know why the overflow bottle is always full... i'm going to go out and check the levels burb it right now.. (crosses fingers) i did already look at a few other posts on overheating and no one mentioned the overfloe bottle always being full even when cold and not running. so i thought that might be a clue as to what it is but it looks like i'm just gonna have to check everything....dang thnx for the help though

i recently had an engine swapped out and my ecu keeps throwing error 34 also.. however i did find a plug on the rear of the engine that is not pluged in.. i think that is the knock sensor plug.. but on mine i can't find where to plug it in.. u might want to check the plug.. it's kinda kidden so maybe ur shop forgot to plug it in.. if it is pluged it lemme know where it is so i can plug mine in..heh... g/l with all that

so my overflow bottle is full and the level doesn't change at all. the temp guage is at half way after driving for less than 2 minutes and the temp stops climbing once the guage reaches about 2 needle widths above center... could the pump be out or would that be the thermostat?

need to get my a/c rechaged is the freon r-12 or r-134a? thnx

i got it fugured out today thanks but thanks anyways

ok so everyhing is waiting for the welder to do his thing so i can finally have 4WD and the last thing for meto do is hook up the lil frigg'n light that comes on when in 4WD. today o have blown 2 fuses trying to use the wiring that looks like was installed as if it were a 4WD pathy from teh factory.. rar frustrated.. i need help from someone that has a 4WD. there is set of wires that runs from under the hood to all the switches on the tranny. how many wires are there? 4 or 6? and what colors are they and what colors go to what switch? if that info cant be found then i need to know how many volts those lil bulbs in the dash require so i can run my own wire to then w/o frying the crap out of them. however i am thinking that the wires that i need are already in the pathy becasue i took appart the dash and the wires are there for the bulb but i don't know where they go from there.. if i knew where they went, i would be hooking up the switches to those wires and not have blown 2 fuses and been frustrated over a frigg'n light bulb for 6 hours today... any help on this would be greatly appreciated -Steven

i have the calmini steering system so no i don't have the stock mounting tabs.. i'm using the ranho bracketry... i'll try the rotation idea if that doesn't work then i'm going to go get a piece of steel and make up a new bracket. thanks guys

when i turn all the way to the lwft the rancho stablizer hits the drag link and i can't turn all the way to the left.. has anyone else had this problem? i'm thinking i'm going to make a new bracket to replace the one rancho gives you that mounts to the frame. the hole in the bracket needs to be moved forward atleast 1/4 in. but 1/2 in. would probably be better .. i'm thiking i'm going to go down and get a piec of steel to drill holes in on tues.

i have a hyraulic table jack thing i set it on and jacked the whole thing right up into place.. i had to remove one LCA then i rolled it in from the side because the table wasn't short enough/pathy wasn't high enough. i'm going out to tighten everything up to specs right now...then the weld and i'm DONE... CASE: NEARLY Closed EDIT: ha i just realized 88 was telling me how to get more room to get that snap ring on.. .not telling me hoe to get teh idff in.. i'll blame it on the lack of sleep i've had... especillay now.. just finished up field day on the radio thnx 88

looks nice... kinda (exaclty)like mine. i like it but i'm running 30's where on the us wheels site does it tell you backspacing.. i have been looking for those rims with as close to 5" of BS as possible.. pro comp only has them in 3.75 (which is what i have now) and they said they can make some cutom ones with 4.5" but prolly won't be able to get more than that out of it.. so what ever info you can give me about these rims wuold be great i wanna run the black rims on 32's w/ my lift.. hopfullt won't be too much trouble.. looks good though.. better than mine.. you have bigger tires

uhoh!! look whats NOT in the pathy... AW dang look whats finaly currently in place.... torsion bars need to go back in and the bolts just need to be tightended to factory specs. then i very slowly drive it around the corner to get those two brackets welded in place and...WALA 4WD conversion complete.. so yeah i'll be wheel'n within the next few days... if i don't break my frigg'n leg again. oh one question though.. i was putting the rototassembly back on and i couldn't get teh dang snap ring to go back in teh groove on the shaft... it's the snap ring that keeps a few other rings in place.. it's visible after you take the hub off... any help would be greatly appreciated.. if i don't get a reply here i'm going to repost in a separate thread..