Filthy Luker

She was born in England, and raised in the UK and Canada. She's about as American as Elisha Cuthbert.

I just got mine from the dealer.

and that's where FSM and dial indicator with mag base comes in.

You don't need to pull the axles out. Just take out the snaprings, then undo the two little philips screws and take out the retaining ring by turning it with a pair of needle nose pliers. The hub will come off then. To undo the 14mm bolts you want to wedge a pry bar or something between the wheel studs and then you can force the bolts with a breaker bar. Then you can tap out the disc from the hub.

You need somebody with a TIG... here are some pics: in my buddy's front D44 axle (open diff).... pre-molested post-molestation my rear H233B (LSD).... pre-molested post-molestation It's perfectly fine on the street as long as you don't drive like an idiot. So coast through turns, etc.

I should add that my transmission exploded three days later. Then i put in a Junkyard tranny.... which exploded on the way back from the mechanics.... Talk about a sense of humour failure for next few days. Then I had my original tranny rebuild. Been great ever since. Oh the things I do for my pathy.

My buddy uses hydro assist with great success on his welded up front end and he's got 37"s.... :Magic:

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8224 do you think when you get out of that college you'll be able to use punctuation? :confused:

Have you ever seen that on trails? It's frakin' hilarious. Poor bastard was so pissed off at getting out every 30 seconds. Simple answer to fix the steering issue is hydro assist.

I forget now... but don't you have to also worry about the crush sleeve when tightening the pinion nut?

True... Mine comes undone all the time and it flickers like crazy when it touches stuff around.

I think the only way to do it is if you you Crapalini slip yoke eliminator or some retarded custom setup. I was very interested in the slip yoke eliminator until i found out that everyone running it is hating the leaks and stuff coming loose.

It is quite possible. You need more tequila. hint:

Impact tools are garbage compared to what human muscle can do. Lock the nut on the pinion with a wrench, then use a breaker bar to get the bolt loose. I did that last week... worked like a charm. It's only a 10mm thread in there put some anger into it. Have you been soaking yer stuff in WD40, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster? that makes a big difference for stuff that hasn't been taken apart in years. As to the torsion bars, I had trouble taking out the bars from the mounts, but as soon as I took the front LCA mount off (the three magic bolts/nuts) and soaked the t-bars in penetrating lubricant it came right off. EDIT: beaten to the PB Blaster by 88 by seconds.

so far you mentioned the easiest parts of the job man! my advice is to get more quality tequila.

I'll blame it on booze, but i read it as Project 2 TONNE and I thought you put Rockwell Axles under a Pathy. -alcohol-

My dealer charged me half an hour of labour to do it (plus the seal price). Considering you need an air tool capable of taking off a 32mm or so nut that's torqued to 180 ft/lbs it was really worth it.

I paid $20 for my gasket last week... filter for free? I like the idea already.

It's just a metal mesh screen. You can clean it in 5 minutes. :confused:

If the oil pressure sensor wiring is not connected, there is no light.

don't you mean MORTOR knocks?

no it means you need a new engine

Thule or Yakima... You can't go wrong with either of them. I suggest looking around ebay or craigslist for a base rack (either Yakima Q-Towers or Thule 400 or 400xt) that fits ANYTHING and then get the Pathy specific clips new from a store. That way you'll save the most money.