vidro

I'm not sure what I was eluding to when I posted the comment "GL4 is not synthetic (we all know this)", except for I know GL4 comes in both Mineral and synthetic but the parts guys were dismissing it for some reason. Where I'm at we have GL4 75 -90 @ $20qrt so I know it's available I'm just to much of a tightwad to buy it. I have heard a bunch about Redline and Amosle (I Know I did not spell that right, bare with me) and the price on the WEB look good. Other fluid questions to those that know. On high mileage engines (240,000) what's the better oil to use, a thinner oil such as 50w or a 30w? I can get synthetic 10-30 and 10-40 at about 20 bucks for 5 qrt. but because of availability and retailer the synthetic in the 50 weight are a little higher. While I'm at it what spark plugs do you fellows recommend?

All right back to the synthetic oil question seems to be my favorite topic lately. I had my pappy in Austin look around for some synthetic to see if was cheaper than the $20 qrt stuff where I live. He said the few parts people that he has spoke to say that GL4 is not synthetic (we all know this), but they are telling him that synthetics are not labeled as GL4-Gl5 but by weight. Any thoughts on this? I posted a little bit ago a comment from another site on the topic of mineral versus synthetic. One guy commented that because manual trannies sling fluid and not pump fluids that synthetic are not recommended and that only pumped method of fluid dispersion should use synthetic. Any one familar with and/or support this theory?

WAIT!!! Recently, with in the past 3 months, someone posted something about a mechanic in Arizona and a "white page" (my term). It had something to do with a smacking sound in Nissans, similar to the Valves hitting the pistons. The commentary explained that it was a solenoid that could be changed to stop this sound. I did a search and did not come up with the post. I the individual that posted it is probably in an alcohol induced coma state by now. For it was mention he was going to grab a brew and ponder the issues while staring at that engine in hopes of finding the solenoid. I never found a solenoid on my 95 but knowing the tenacity of most of those that post on this site I figured the original author of that post is going to ponder till they find one. Back to my thought would this “knock sensor” possibly also somehow be able to manipulate the engine to create that “smaking” sound at an idle?

CREAKs, POPs, BANGs, CLICKs, and KAPOWs have always bothered me when I've encountered them on my vehicles. These really frustrate me on vehicles less than 3 years old or newer. That being said I do not buy new and most of MY cars, not my wife's, are purchased knowing that something is wrong with them and are 10 years or older. I hope not to hear such noises but when I do I figure it's expected. I heard a noise the first week I got my pathie on the street. I made a hard right turn and the sound that emanated from the back half of the vehicle was such I thought she snapped into. I've heard it one other time since then, it seems to be some how associate with a hard right turn

P.O. of pathie was a dog lover. Evidently the dog loved seat belts as a chew toy. My back passenger side shoulder belt is half way chewed through and is not safe to use as a "safety belt". Most parts I would pick up at the junk yard but something about seat belts sitting in an open environment for prolonged periods of time make me think I should purchase fairly new or at least in a box. I'm trying to avoid the dealer as my first resource. Any body know where I could pick up a shoulder belt for a 95 Pathy? In restoring a 67 Cougar I found a couple main parts suppliers that were specific for the vintage Mustang and Cougar. Are there parts places specific to pathies that are not associated with dealers?

Would the "knock" than be the same as the term "pre ignition" ? The knock isn't the rocker arm slap when the lifters float is it? What happens when it does sense a "knock" ?

I was looking for a "shoulder seat belt assembly" when I ran a crossed a "Knock sensor" for a 95 Pathfinder. Can someone elaborate as to what a "Knock sensor" would be used for? I can only assume by it's name that some how it sense engine knocks. I would think that any individual with semi-descent hearing could notice a rod knocking.

I saw the post "LSD" and was thinking WOW someone I might be able to compare experience with. Wrong kind of LSD. Was hoping to see if anyone else experianced bright colors when the flash backs kicked in.

You're right most newer cars would be electronically controlled. Sorry about my referancing older technology. I guess working with this 67 has regressed my thinking placing all vehicles in the same vintage My pathie being a 5 speed manual would not use vacuum.

These fires have already literally wiped out 2 smaller communities. It's farming and ranching in this part of the country and when your crops burn down or your cows get torched before you sell them it's hard to pay the bills. At the same time the crops and cows are irrelevant when you see fires annihilate whole towns. I was thinking of those collectable items that at one time I thought would be worth some thing, items like old fishing lures, baseball cards things that I now classify as "stuff". One spark and their gone, one good flood and most things are not salvageable. I think I'll start selling off all my "stuff" and buy me a lift kit. Any body interested in a Robin Yount rookie card? Mike Schmidt 2nd yr card? Got many others.

I guess if I'm running around dousing out fires and it gets to hot to handel and it require me to leave the vicinity, the vehicle should be o.k. with the possibility of a warped paint job, you think?

I live about 60 mile from Cross plains TX and Eastland TX. Some may have heard about the fire fights in these areas, assistance in combating fires had mostly been from Volunteers but some bigger cities have started to send in their fire crews to aid. It's still very dry with not much hope for relief in sight so fires are inevitable and will most likely continue to break out. Material positions have no value when it comes to life or death situation How much heat do you think one of these pathies could take before the vehicle body would melt or the tires would burn off ? Or the gas tank would blow?

In restoring a 67 Cougar. I have become reacquainted with vacuum system. When I purchased this beast she was not running so I flat bedded her to the domicile. Long story short I replaced many parts on this feline, all brake components were replaced. It's a power brake, 4 corner DRUM brake system and replacing the vacuum booster was a part of the repairs About 6 months ago I was driving the Coug around when I heard a POP, she instantly went from Power brakes to manual brake in a blink of an eye. I came close to doing the Flintstone thing, thank goodness I wear thick soled boots. I had a life time warranty on the booster, makes me wonder what the odds are of collecting a new booster if your brakes go out while driving in major traffic, you think that's why they say "Life Time Warranty". If you survive a failure you deserve a new booster? I survived and got another booster, but when I yanked the other one off I noticed liquid inside the booster. I looked at the vacuum hoses and found the one going to the "Automatic tranny vacuum shift mod" was wet. I went under the vehicle pulled the hose off the module and notice ATF coming out of the vacuum hose and module. Not sure if the ATF caused the diaphragm to pop by that is what happened

I'm with OldPathy. I have seen ATF get sucked into the carb if the vacuum module on the tranny has gone bad. I have also seen it where ATF has been sucked into the brake vacuum booster. In general I have found that where ATF shows up depends on where the modules vacuum is being supplied from.

WOW! I didn't know I got so repetitive in my last post. That was a product of to many paste and not enough cuts Damn that's really annoying. Sorry guys.

I can't answer that. I'm not trying to be a jerk when I say this but there's really not much of choice. I'm not sure how long it would take to warm up before the tranny fluid would thin down. There is the heater under the vehicle at nights option , they do this with diesels. With my luck if I put a heater under the vehicle at night, the next morning I would probably just find four melted tires and a perfectly good heater burned out. I know first and second gear are real bad and most likely this is due to the lower RPMS and that they are the first 2 gears of the morning after a cold night. I was talking to guy at work who's son and him just finish restoring a Toyota 4x4 with manual tranny. The first day in the 32 degree range his boy made a comment about having to use two hands to shift the beast. Synthetic is probably the answer to ease this issue and as you have read and/or will read stick with GL4. If you can find synthetic GL4 expect to pay a premium but in the long run it is most likely worth the investment. I'm not trying to be a jerk when I say this but there's really not much of choice. I'm not sure how long it would take to warm up before the tranny fluid would thin down. That or put a heater under the vehicle at nights, I know they do that with diesels. With my luck if I put a heater under the vehicle at night, the next morning I would probably just find four melted tires and a perfectly good heater burned out.

You're right, sounds like synthetic would fix this situation. I will have to ask Santa for this though otherwise @ $20.00 a Qrt my financial manger will KICK MY A@* And believe me it only takes once with her and her iron skillet to no she mangers our (her) money well.

I'm using 75-90 GL4 this does explain why my right forearm has increased in mass by 1/2 inch in diameter. Richard Simmons aint got nothing on that kind of workout, Shifting a manual tranny in below freezing temperature

It has been a few weeks since the pathy has acted up, so I figured what ever was possessing it got pissed off at my stupidity and left or it went into hibernation till warmer weather, I thought wrong. Figure this one out; It only happens when temperature are below freezing. On the manual transmission pathies you have to push in the clutch to start the vehicle. After starting the vehicle I put it in neutral and let off the clutch till she warms up. In cold weather when I do this the vehicle starts to move this is while it is in neutral, plus the RPM on the engine drop about 500. I'll explain it again so I make sure I'm saying it right. Cold weather... with clutch out all is ok. Vehicle in neutral, clutched released, vehicle starts to move and engine goes under load

15C is like what 60F. Is this your yearly low?

Artic front came threw this morning around 1:00 a.m., 12 degrees outside. I go to work between the hours of 1 and 8 a.m depending on situation. Work is about 20 miles from domicile. I let the vehicle warm up for about 10 minutes this morning before heading on the highway, cold air blowing from heater after the warm-up period. Manual shifting a little hard because the oil viscosity is about 1 at this temperature or maybe 100 I get those confused. Long story short, vehicle was running for about 30 minutes when I arrived at work is when it started to blow warm air and the C/H needled was just barely off C. Maybe these vehicles are just cold natured. On the other hand my carbureted 67Cougar would still be in the drive way warming up. I'm not sure the automatic choke would function under these conditions.

I have the same problem, no lights from anything in that area of the dash except the radio. And My interior dome light doesnt come on when the doors is open or go off when the door is closed and the slide is in the middle postion of the far left (towards driver )

Minus WHAT? I may have missed it in your post but where in the heck are U located? I don't think they even sale thermometers that go that low here in Texas. I just got done looking at the thermometer on my out side wall and the lowest it goes is 50. Wait, that can't be right. I think I just figured out what happened to the babies rectal thermometer. The national weather guys issued a winter storm adviser for tomorrow night, they predicting 40 degrees with rain. Ha kidding. Seriously they are predicting highs in the mid 20s. 20 degrees or minus 20 degrees after 32 it's all the same to me, to Dam* COLD!!!!!

The window casing is the hard stuff the "weather stripping" I have always considered the items of a rubber compound, not sure if those are the correct terms, that is what I have heard them referred to Your right about the window casing around the front windows it must be another weakness in the list of Pathie susceptibility it had fallen off my pathfinder before I bought it. The parts I am having most problems is the back side windows has a strip of rubber that goes around the window that has evidently shrunk and harden over time. along with the stripping around the all the side windows the weather stripping is splitting. I have an odd situation with the passenger side front window weather stripping (where the windows meets into the rubber in the up position) there is a section on the inside and out side portion of this weather stripping in the same place about an inch long that looks like somebody took a razor blade and cut this gap. I'm not sure if it is a literal cut or the weather stripping split, it is creating much wind noise. I'll try to take a picture

Is there generic weather stripping that I can get for this 95 XE pathie? This stuff is just crumbling a way. All of it is as hard as a rock