vidro

After evaluating the pieces and putting them together I have come to the conclusion that this is part of a bear "race" and "cage". The tranny is not disassemble but beings that I found it at the bottom of the front cover would make me think the component that went bad is in the front section, I do not see any thing that looks as though it as suffered that much damage. I'm wondering if it is not one of the bearing in the middle section.

Another shot with the pieces on their sides

This is what I found in the front portion of the transmission This is not brass and the gears up front look good I honestly can not see where this stuff came from. I'm going to ask even though these are not the best pictures, do these pieces look like some thing to any body?

This is the striker arm on the striker rod. If you stay in the middle of the picture and go to the right you will see a little hole. That was where the pin was that I knocked out, and supposedly the arm should now slide off the rod but it aint happenen This is what I found in the front portion of the transmission This is not brass and the gears up front look good I honestly can not see where this stuff came from. I'm going to ask even though these are not the best pictures, do these pieces look like some thing to any body? Let me also add that there was a big misinterpretation from some the fellow that informed me of this vehicle and new it and the owner well. When I picked the vehicle up I never tried putting it in 3rd or 5th because it was my understanding that they didn't work so I never tried. I have now found out that this is not the case, the tranny was noisy in 3rd and 5th but still functional. Verbiage was used that the gears should not be used until the tranny was looked at So MAYBE things aren't as bad as I thought even thought there are pieces of metal floating around in this thing

This proves I'm a moron. I've knocked out the pin in the striking arm but I'm having a heck of a time removing the arm from the rod, is there a trick to this or do I use more force? Does any body want to see pictures of this ordeal before I throw the D@#m thing into the street?

Hum, After what you've said $600 for a low mileage used tranny doesn't sound bad at all

"Optima" is that a gel cell battery? My understanding is that any sudden jolt on a lead battery causes this "dead battery" phenomenon. I wasn't sure if Off-Roaders had experienced a pattern of buying a new battery every year.

This maybe a real stupid question, How often do you Off-Road 4x4 folk have to change vehicle batteries? This question came up in conversation with a "Jeep" (4 letter word) friend of mine who does have a 4x4 but does not do off road stuff. There is a theory that if a vehicle has a strong but not necessarily damaging front end bump it can be expected that the battery will go dead and/or weak with in a few months after this bump. The reason for this has something to do with the plates in the battery and stuff falling off the plate. If this being true I was wondering about off-road vehicles and the ruff ride those batteries take.

One more time just to clarify it to myself and bounce it off you veterance with the experiance. It seems that the junk yards I have spoke to state that if this PathFinder was any thing but a 2X4, 5 speed manual, I would be able to swap with the pick up trucks from the years 88-95. BUT since it is a 2x4 I'm stuck with the years 93-96 and only a Pathfinder tranny will work. Stepping back a bit, I have to ask why? I have heard that a 4x4 tranny could work, this sounds like and atractive solution if it was certain that all that would need to happen would be to change the rear housing and I could still use all my original parts. I'm getting SO CONFUSED!!

Thanks a bunch Underdog, I'll try those and let you know what happens. I'd driver over to Big D or FW if the gas prices didn't make it so dang cost prohibitive. I had figured any tranny I had to go out of Abilene for I would need to add another 100 bucks just for shipping. I have this stigma about paying extra for some thing that is not tangible. At this point , without calling those numbers that you have suggested, I'm getting this "that damn if I do or damned if I don't", kind of feeling in this situation. This is in reference to the following thought; The used trannies that I have been able to locate are about 200 to 300 dollars less than getting a tranny rebuilt. So there's the buy used with 90,000 plus miles or pay more and get the rebuilds. After reading more postings, my interpretation on Pathie trannies is they seem to only last on average around 150 - 200 thousand miles. That should be another 4 or 5 years plus of drive time but heck I don't know. The vehicle that this, the original tranny, came out of has over 220,000 miles.

A local yard can get a transmission for me out of Kansas with 96,000 for 600.00, does that o.k.?

I'm in Abilene Texas, So far I have only found that 1 tranny from the 92 Pathfinder with over 170,000. I have not checked ALL the yards around here but I have check the ones with the best reputations and the ones that I have worked with before.

If I picked up a 4x4 tranny, is all I have to do is swap the back part of the tranny case of my old case to the 4x4?

Tranny's out!!! I have finally got the tranny out of the vehicle. located a used tranny at a junk yard. When I went to check it out, the owner said it's out of a 92 which shouldn't be a problem but his database shows that only 93 to 96 are interchangeable on the 2 wheel drives, but 89 to 95 are interchangeable on the 4 wheel drives. Is his database messed up or is there some legitimate reason that it would show this? The tranny also has over 170,000 miles it's the only one I have been able to locate in this town, but boy that's a lot of miles. How much should I consider paying for one with this much ware and tear?

Is there any way to unscrew the shifter boot first ( the big rubber thing around the gear shift in side the cab)?

Little help PLEASE. I have the bell housing unbolted, exhaust unbolted, the cross bar is still bolted along with the drive shaft. BUT before I go unbolting those items I have been staring up at this beast from the garage floor I now am wonder "How in the HECK do I undo the stick shift stuff". First off and the biggest obstacle is how do I get the Shifter Boot off from inside the cab ?

What a B@#!. I usually don't and shouldn't expound my frustration in such a way but after last nights ordeal in attempting to pull out that transmission I have to vent and let someone hear me. I made mention in a previous post that I had tools, I am modifying my statement and add "I do have tools just NOT the correct size". Yes I have metric. No I do not have the 3 foot extension required to get to the exhaust bolts. Do I have 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive sockets "Yes". But "No" metric deep wells to add to the 3 foot extension (that I do not have). Forget a boxend hand wrench on those exhaust bolts, they aint moven. I'm seriously thinking about getting an impact gun to finish up this project. Drained the oil on the tranny, chunk of metal came out look to be a thin walled component that has broken down, resembles the casing around bearings

COOL Deal. Thanks for the link Filthy_Luker, just what I needed

Mines not a 4x4, 2 wheel drive.

Are all FS5R30A the same? If I pull one out of a 1988 ZX vehicle will it just plug dirctly into the pathfinder?

While I'm asking, what is the diff between a VG30E and a VG30i engine? I have gone to 2 sites to look up my VIN# and one site gives me the "i" engine the other gives me the "E". I will also say I've never seen a car with some many stereo speakers in it, I think I've counted 8 so far I'm not sure how you would hook a stereo up to 8 speakers.

I guess I'm use to tweaking for acceleration and speed, this is my reference to performance. I will have to change my perception of performance when in comes to SUV's In my "muscle" car tweak days performance mods were things like adding headers, MSD ignition, adjusting carb jet size. Maybe I should stand back and reevaluate my thinking when it comes to SUV performance mods. It maybe not be an SUV issues as much as it is a 21 century technology thing. Newer vehicles have the capability of having "chip" upgrades to the computer to enhance performance. Are there such things as this that have been done or recommended? Any mods on the injector system? How about the ignition and exhaust? When I located this forum I made mention I was a newbie with many questions. I appreciate all the responses and replies to my post. Please continue to bare with me cause I'm still learning

I haven't done any mod work on car other than older American muscle cars, the cars that still are carbureted, have points and came from the factory with single exhaust. So I'm asking you skilled and experienced dudes and dudets (woe, bad shrooms and to much Rigdemont High). After I get my transmission done, what would be the best bang for the buck "cheap" mod that I could do to this pathy to increase it's performance?

It's parked right now. I do not need it for transportation, I have other vehicles. The money part of this is I want to save as much as I can.

I do not know the transmission model number but it is a 5 speed manual hooked to a VG30E engine in 95 pathfinder 2 wheel drive. I am missing 3rd and 5th and the vehicle rumbles in every other gear. I am not a novice to mechanics but than I am not such a veterans that I have an arsenal of expensive tools. I do not have a bearing press but I do have a big freaking hammer. I do have the major metric and standard size wrenches and sockets, open ends ,box ends ,deep wells, shallows, etc. Some specialty tools, snap pliers, chisels, HACKSAWS. Would I be more nuts than usual to try and repair this tranny myself, or should I save my family from the loud obscenities and sounds of crashing metal and take it to someone that knows what they're doing? I'm familiar with standards transmissions and have worked on a few 4 speeds but they were from American cars.