vidro

I didn't get it in his ear to far. I'm sure if I would have taken off that little cap on the vary tip of the bottle I could have gained another half inch. I was able to get another pint into the tranny last night, again driven the passenger side wheels on the curb of a already slanted road. I'm wonder way it took another pint considering no leaks and it was oozing out the drain hole the night before, When I had the tranny apart I noticed the separated plate had a slit at the bottom I'm sure this is for the oil to get into that part of the tranny housing. I'm wondering now if I was and am premature on thinking the tranny is full when it is seeping out of the filler hole. I'm thinking that it might take a little time for the volume of fluid to disburse evenly with a restriction such as that plate, even with the gap at the bottom. Does this thinking make any sense? Precise1, on the 4x4 - 2x4 thing. Believe me, knowing it's a 2x4 makes me feel like a "Want-ta be" not the real McCoy. I come from a vintage muscle car back ground "need for speed" and classic curves. I have been attracted to the "SUV", hope I don't offend anyone with that acronym but financially to get one now days is like buying a house. Plus, I have this thing about "Doing it myself". I ran across this 2x4 deal when the PO didn't want to spend the money to get the tranny fixed. I picked it up for 1K, tranny built for around $300, that's with the special tools purchased. About $100 on the exhaust . I think right I'm at a little over $1600 with the extras, like speakers, tune-up components, timing belt & tensioner, water pump , Yada Yada. I also lean towards foreign autos when it comes to dependability and quality, older domestic for muscle. I was absolutely PISSED when I heard last week that GM was going to shut down all those plant last week It baffles me that American Corporations DON'T GET IT. "Business"- making financial gains by producing a product that accommodate the consumer economically through cost, quality, and growth. These top Exe are nothing but a bunch of Harvard BLOW HARDS and have lost focus. Is it about the bottom line and making money? "Yes", but methodology determine the true business man. Hell anyone can take over a business and cut jobs to make the bottom line look good. It is hard enough to except the fact that the top level of GM is making 6 - 7 figure income. That kind of income could be justified if they could save those plants and jobs BUT to CUT those jobs and still think their worth 6-7 figures, THAT IS CRAZY. If I was on the board and that was the finally solution I'd FIRE everyone of their Exe ASSES. GM - Revaluate your problem MAKE A BETTER PRODUCT Sorry about that I know this is not the place to air my political or professional opinions

Turn XE into an SE spoiler. I have an XE with the spoiler on it, is this unusual?

Does any one know anything about “Royal purple” oil? I can get this stuff at $9.00 qrt versus $20.00; my concern is that it shows it will take the place of GL4 AND GL5. I have always been leary about a product that can cover/do many things. It’s usually an indication that it is o.k. at everything but not great at anything.

This is great, people that think like me, that's really should be disturbing. Hey, I was able to push the damn thing on it's side and force another qrt in to the tranny, it's amazing how much better she shifts and rides. I hope I didn't SCREW things up to bad over these last 500 miles, no real long drives except for that Turkey hunt. Checked on synthetics. First off be vary wary of counter help at these franchise Auto store. Not that they don't mean well but some of these fellows start loosing train of thought as soon as the customer open their moths. I called a place in town asking for synthetic GL4 75/90 "sure we have it in Mobile, 8 bucks a grt.. "Sounds good, I'll be right over". After 15 miles of travel (not in the Pathie), I get to the shop, go to pick up my 4 qrts. what do I find "Yes" he had 75/90 but he blew it on the GL4 it was GL5. O.K.. I said "nice try but I need GL4". "OH" he says, leaves for about an hour comes back. I heard some unrecognizable noise emanating from my throat as I gazed through my glassy eyes at the label, 75/90 GL4 but not synthetic. I figure by this time that the criteria I had been expounding was getting lost in translation. To try and accumulate the correct values to solve the requested equation was evidently not in this guys ability on this given day. I guess these guys work off some level of commission or something because he tried to convince me that GL5 can take the place of GL4. "See it says on the label meets and/or exceed GL5 recommended application". My thought was since I don't know the difference between GL4 GL5 or any other oil based chemical compound I will take it from those that I feel more confidant in (You guys on this forum) and stick specifically with GL4 . "But it EXCEEDS GL5 which must be better than GL4 because it is a bigger number", he says This discussion went on for, hum another 5 seconds, this is about the time I decided to see just how far in to the ear tube canal one of those long qrt bottles could go. The store manager didn't appreciate me showing off my impalement skills on his counter help. Long story SHORT they did not have any 75/90 GL4 in synthetic but they were nice enough to call the surrounding hemisphere to help locate some, and they did. 4 qrts at the price of $20.00 a qrt. "What the crap is up with that?". I guess if I want it I'll have to pay their price. At least I'll save on gas, the location of this store is right next to the police station which was convenient since the counter help CAN'T TAKE A JOKE Sh@# between $20 a qrt and my "get out of jail" card from "Bobby the Buffed up Bondsmen" ex WWWF wrestler. Christmas is going to be thin this year.

Stock, yes, it is a 2x4, it was the only one I could find at the price I could afford. but I'm working on a gear and sprocket idea that would put a gear on the rear axle and a gear on a home made front that attaches to the front 2 tires with a chain connecting both. Damn if I was serious about that I should be checked into the nut house, AGAIN

"Leaning the truck" now there's an idea. V6 3.0L M/T 7.5 Pint. Isn't that 2 pints to a qrt? putting that pretty damn near 4 qrt. CRAP!!!!!! I've probably driven this thing around 500 miles, SOaB now what damage did I do?!!!!! Oh well, I can't sit here bitchen about it all day I guess this gives me a good excuse to get the synthetic in there now.

OUCH!! 5QRTS U-OH I'm in trouble. Mine only took 2 .5 qrts before it started ozzing out of the filler hole, Flat gound Where did I screw up? Mine is a 2 wheel drive, does that matter?

Any recommended synthetic manual trannie fluids? I did a search and found info for automatics but was not successful in finding any suggestions synthetic fluids for manual trannies

Rudolph RED or as is mentioned in "Used Cars", "A flaming Red chariot to take me straight to Hell"

Following your link and read the rest of the issues on the "3.0 Engine" If you have the noise discribed I would put my money, what little I have, on the tentioner

Oil filter size? I have a VERY small filter, I'm sure a name brand filter could possibly be a bit bigger for better filtering.

Yes, I do wipe it down and I usually check it three times in one sitting. And I have to say that it was over full by a quart, possibly a quart and a half, I think. I just pulled the drain plug and let some drain out and kept checking the stick till it was right at the "H". It is evident that I did put to much in it I just have to question myself as to "why". I'm usually fairly conscious of the fluid levels but in this case unconscious is probably appropriate. I did use "Slick 50" at the last oil change which was the first one I gave it since I've owned that vehicle. I think I've only driven it approximately 500 miles since I've been in possession of the vehicle another pun there I'm possessed or it's possessed not sure lately. I noticed oil coming from the top passenger side front, it doesn't seem to be the valve cover I'm now kind of concerned and pissed that I might have blown out a seal because of the excessive oil. It is a very slow leak, it may have been there prior to my getting the vehicle hoping it's one of those coincident things. MAF? yes I popped it out... Q-tipped it with Alcohol (MadDog 20/20) and put it back in. There was dirt that came off and she seems to run a little bit better, I'm thinking that a spark plug change would be the best next tune up item, I did the Dist. cap and rotor already that seem to improve starting and some higher RPM issues, but when cold and lower RPM's there is something, not major but she has a little "jerkiness" and "hesitation" in her. Other item: Manual tranny oil I put the 4 -90 stuff in her after getting her rebuild. I'm aware that the filler hole is lower that it should be and there was a case redesign to fix the lubrication issue because of this. I want to use synthetic oil in the tranny to help avoid losing the bearings again is there any recommendation on what is the best synthetic manual transmission oil?

This is the way I understand it. 5x7 are the speakers for the fronts, at least on my 95 XE Pathie but some manufactures will show speakers for Ford as 6x8 but are really 5x7. Pioneer makes a pair of 6x8 that is to fit Fords, Mazda's, and Nissan. The info that have just now passed on is they way a sales guy at Best Buy explained it. I just bought a pair of Sony's that showed to be 5x7.

I have a 95 with the 3.0L, in referance to the sound, YES!!! Absoo-flipen-lootly I equate the sound more to the distinct sound of the VW engine. There is no pattern to the volume and presents. At first I thought it was lifters but it just doesn't have that sound, than I thought Main Bearing but when you increase that idle it does not "slap" like a main bearing. I thought it was the timing belt tensioner, replace that while doing the T-belt and the sound seem to go way, than last week that sound started, than this morning it seem to be gone. My question is than. Where is this valve timing solenoid? valve timing is the function of the camshaft If it is making this noise is there something bad happening? Or is something bad about to happen? Or is everything o.k. it's just an annoying sound? I have looked in the manual for this component and I'm not finding it. I'm not saying it's not there I'm just not seeing any as a "Variable valve timing solenoid" or anything similar to that. Is that considered to be a mechanical part or an electrical part?

What are the odds of washing out the main bearings or can that kind of thing happen on these newer foreign vehicles

3.5 Qrts CRAP!! No wonder the rear seal is leaking even though it is brand new.

I did a search and I didn't find anything so I guess I'm the only moron that has a problem reading this crappy (not the fish) dip stick. When I check the oil it appears that the oil line is about an inches above the H on that block indicator. I don't see this being accurate, at the time of the oil change I only put 5 quarts, I don't remember priming the filter so that would be around 4.5 qrts in the pan. Or is it possible that I am reading correctly and maybe there is 5 or 5.5 qrts in the pan?

Hence the name "Panic button", it did exactly what it was suppose to. You expected a certain result after pushing the button. After you pushed the button and a "No" result occured, wasn't there that split second of "panic", that "Oh no what else is not working correctly" kind of feeling. O.k I'll stop being such an A#s H*&e You know now that you said that, what is the desired result of the Panic Button? I'm thinking I may have just found my Poltergeist, at least for the mysterious siren stuff. One of the first rules of Paranormal research is to notice if there are children around the vicinity of the so called "Haunting" or "event". I have a 5 year old boy and as with most boys under the age of 70 he loves to touch stuff and play with "new" button pushing, toggle swinging gadgets. I do not no how far the Remotes signal will travel, but it is VERY possible that while I was out back with my older boy and mama having her back turned, Junior my have noticed daddies "new" gadget and decide to push a button.

After rethinking things it wasn't a horn sound like the "push the button on the steering wheel horn", (I don't think). It was changing in dynamics, going from an ambulance kind of siren, to a Honk Honk sound like extremely big geese, to some noise that I could only picture as a couple of black cats on a black top road in the quite of the night just not fast enough to get out the way of that Semi. It was an eerie similar sound to what happen to my canine after I pushed that button with the three legged dog icon on it, some of you may remember that incident. I'm sure ever thing in this vehicle is stock, no after market anything so there are no added bells and whistle.

Talked to PO today vehicle had spark plugs chnaged 2 years ago, but not the distribute cap or rotor, which say Nissan. What are the odds that these are the original parts. 10 years and 220,000 miles later. G this thing ought to run like a dream with new parts.

I can field this one, been there done that. Not sure if yours is a standard or Auto. but I recently finished rebuilding (bearings only) my 5 speed tranny. I got my kit from the followingplace. Transmission Exchange Co. 1803 NE ML King Blvd Portland, OR 97212 800-776-1191 http://www.txchange.com Prioir to ordering the kits I would mention that you should verify that the kit comes with ALL the parts you need. I did run into an issue that for some reason certain bearings and seals were not a part of the kit, like the rear main shaft seal. I would think this to be standard seal in a seal kit.

Siren and horns, with bad harmony and no sence of rhythm

I put a new batter in the remote security device, I played with it remotely unlocking and locking the vehicle, COOL. I made sure the security switch inside was turned to OFF, all OFF not just Impacted Off. I remotely locked the vehicle. About ten minutes later I was in the back yard throwing the ball with my boy when "BLAM" these noise that can only be described as sirens from Hell start blaring from the direction of the front yard. Yes, it was the Pathfinder, rocking back and forth, flames and black smoke roaring out from underneath, green Malta meal stuff oozing out of the tail pipe. Ah Sorry, got a little Carrie away. (pun for you Steven King folks). that must have been a flash from those drug days, bad acid. Really the vehicle was just standing there making all these noises I had grabbed the remote device as I was running through the house, I had figured out what was going on by that point. The vehicle responded to the push of the button from the remote. I open the vehicle to verify that the security was Off and yes it was Off. I locked the doors manually, in the last 24 hours there have been no similar occurrences. Any idea out side of possession why this thing went off? I'm nervous about enabling the security device because of events like this taking place in the middle of the night, I really do not want to disturb my neighbors. I already have most of them pissed off with the dancing and crow (simulated chicken) thing.

You're right 5000 not 50,000 there goes my Engineer degree I can't even multiply any more. actually I was getting over confident in my lack of ability to finish the project in a postive manner and figured I would screw it up so bad that it should pay out 50,000. Either way there won't be a pay day yet, I didn't try to clean it. I started looking at the other "tune up" components, distributer cap and rotor. I would have looked at the spark plugs but couldn't get the dang wires off the plugs, there is no trick to this is there? The distributer cap and rotor are Nissan parts which makes me wonder if they are the original that came with the vehicle or the PO went to the dealer to get things done. The cap has a crack near one of the screw holes and the pickups on the inside are carbonized, the rotor contact point is also pretty black. Is there a standard time as to when to change these components on electronic ignition vehicles? Every 60,000 miles or some thing like that? I picked up a pair of Sony 5x7, I little more than I wanted to spend but the only ones I could find. A sales guys said that 6x8 speaks marketed for Ford vehicles are actually 5x7. This would not have ,evrything he had for Ford 6x8 was more expensive than those 5x7

You said "stock 4x6" Ah-Ha The cross reference speaker books say that stock for the 95 was 5x7 BUT at the same time they only show front 5x7 and back 5x7. This is why it is good to have a place like this forum, so naive persons as my self can get "Real life" answers and not depend on some manufactures whos out to screw the public. o.k. that's enough of my ramblings. I'm not sure what the standard stereo config is in most pathfinders but mine has 8 speakers. 2 tweets in the windshields pillars, 2 woofs in the front door, The ceiling in the back, 2 tweets and 2 woofs in separate grills. The PO ripped out the speakers in the door and the ones in back are buzzing. With the front speakers missing I'm figure the Output Finals in the stereo maybe burned out too. On the wobbly thing, Precise1, I'm thinking you're right 2 and 3 could be intertwined. after reading the post on the cleaning of the sensor I have a new fear. There is a couple references on "NOT" to damage the wires. I think you are familiar with my vehicle and mines relationship. What are the odds of me getting the sensor unbolted with out stripping the screws and cleaning it without damaging the wires. Matter of fact I called a friend, same friend that know the priest, who has a friend who is a bookie in Vegas. The deals is I'm to give a 3 day notice prior to my starting this task so he can set odds and start taking bets. I gave him notice yesterday, I called this morning and got the line. WOW I'm so confident it their odds that I scrounged up a 100 buck and placed a bet. I figure by Monday I will be 50,000 dollars richer. The odds are 50 to 1 that I will not get this thing out and In without screwing it up.