vidro

I have a door switch that I think is bad because all the doors are closed and secure but I get the "door ajar" light on my dash. Would a door switch being bad disable the security system? The security system thinks the door is open so it can not set to enable, is my thinking right on this? I was told by the PO that the security system in this vehicle worked. I'm not able to get it to work but than I have always had the "door ajar" light on.

You right, I could have put a little more effort into searching, I'll do better next time sorry. From all the post I read prior to me posting this one, Q3 is where I thought there could be a relation with Q1. I was thinking exactly what you mentioned, "tune-up". The other thought was also in your line of thinking but more in the carriage bearing area. I have never experienced a bearing going bad or possibly not being installed correctly and since I did remove this during the tranny rebuild I had some thoughts, if it were possible to some how not get the bearing installed right. On the speaker issue I have read, not discrepancies, but talk as if some individuals have used 4x6 either to replace 5x7 or that the vehicle came with 4x6 I'm still a little confused with this. In any case it sounds like 4x6 would fit in the front doors, is that correct? I can get a pair of 4x6's easier and cheaper than 5x7.

Q1: I need front door speakers. By the count of all the speaker grills in the vehicle it would appear that this system has 8 speaker, 2 in the front windshield pillars, 2 in the front door 2 woofers and 2 tweeters in the back. I look in a book that showed speakers sizes and replacement and it show 5x7 for the fronts. Is this right? Where in the heck am I going to find a pair 5x7? Criteria;CHEAP Q2: Where is this sensor located that I hear about people cleaning? Q3: Strange: In about the first 5 minutes of drive time, after long periods of not running, the vehicle shakes in 4th gear, this is usually just for the first 5 minutes. It feels like the tires out of balance the whole vehicle "wobbles", than it goes away. Any ideas?

Try Texas. Im not sure there are any smog testing places down here, maybe in Dallas and Austin. I'm not even sure what SMOG is. For the lonest time I thought it was a shorten phrase for SMashed FrOG. Don't ask or we'll be heading back to the drug thing. Hell, we don't even have hard top road in some of the towns I'm aquainted with.

I have heard a couple times about a MAF sensor and cleaning it. Since my vehicle has over 220,000 it probably needs cleaning, it this is appropriate preventive maintenance. Where is it located? and Should I clean it?

You know my past post and my relationship with my Pathfinder so interpret this with that in mind. Most of my knowledge is in carburetor vehicles from the 70's towards the start of Elvis's career. Fuel in oil with a carbureted car is usually a sign of one of the following A hole in the fuel pump diaphragm . I'm not sure what in a fuel injected Pathfinder equates to a the fuel pump system in a vintage vehicle. Spark not hot enough to burn all the fuel, usually causes a fuel fowled (most likely chicken) spark plug and a miss on the cylinder. You mentioned she is "running great" so that Nics this one. Hotter plugs would help burn off extra gas along with a hotter spark. In pre electronic ignition cars swapping the points to a Flame Thrower coil and Petronics system usually helped with hotter spark. Again don't know about 95 Pathfinders To much fuel being dumped in cylinder to burn. To much fuel being bumped is usually adjusted by the jetts in the carburetor, I would think in the Pathfinder this is controlled by the computer. That's my 2 cents... probably only worth 1 but with inflation, gots to make a liven

Dang I'm so self absorbed, all I think about is me, me, me, I'm always asking for help but not brave enough to give any YET. That being said, I need some more advice. I took the heat shield off the driver side, all bolts are in tacked and accounted for. I did NOT tighten them for fear of breakage. I am hear an exhaust pop from this area, yes, after a few minutes of driving the pop lessons. What is my next course of action? Do I leave them alone? Soak them in Blaster, try to remove them? Try to tighten them? I'M SO CONFUSED. Quote "Have you tried slaughtering a chicken yet ? I find a granite 'altar' works well, followed by dancing around a bonfire naked wearing a goats head while chanting... These demons are far too ancient to respect any 'new' gods !" Couldn't find a chicken so a used a crow, granite alter not available so I used the neighbors cement porch. (I wonder if that has anything to do with the "For Sale" sign in his yard this morning ?) No goats head but the lodge down the street lent me their moose antlers. I will say the dancing around the block gave me a thrill. Is $200.00 really the standard rate to bail out of jail now days? WOW! It's gone up.

I guess I need to find a different dealer, I don't mind the BUZZ but I can't stand hallucinating. I agree, it's the drugs, and the road, the wind, and anything between 30ish and 50ish MPH. Sounds like tire balancing and rotation time. P.S. Anybody know of a Rabbi (not the plural for rabbit) that does exorcisms? Evidently what ever is possessing this thing has no comprehension of Latin. I am now hearing the exhaust pop coming from the drivers side exhaust manifold, I'm not brave enough to look, if I ignore it I know it will go away.

I maybe on drugs but I'm not crazy, someone try and explain something to me When I was doing the T-belt and Water pump I removed the "scuff plate" from front underneath the vehicle, I did this to get a better shot at the radiator drain plug. After putting everything back together I left the scuff plate off. I'm a real pessimist when it comes to my handy work, I figured I will need to get back under there for something else. Here's the part where either I didn't fix the exhaust leak and I'm being carbon monoxide poisoned or the scuff plate has something to do with stabilizing the front end. I have made reference in previous post of the front end "wobbling" on my Pathfinder but with the scuff plate off it seems to have settled down. Is this a coincidence or could there be something legitimate going on here?

She's done. The old belt looked good, the old water pump looked good, but the tension pulley was noisy. All these items changed as preventive maintenance, vehicle has 220,000 miles on it. The hardest thing here was the adjustment of the tensioner and that was not labor intensive. It was a new concept for me to used a feeler gage in a timing belt scenario. The harmonic balancer bolt broke loose fairly easy after I put the vehicle in gear and took a hammer to my rachet, the quick and sudden impacts broke it loose.

Being That it is a standard trannie, would I hurt anything by putting it into gear and just let the load of the vehicle put the tension on the crank?

Of cource nothing can be straight forward with me and this vehicle, my friends preist is doing the exor thing on the vehicle while I post this. Good news, It only took me 1 hour to get to the point that I got pissed off ,this is a record. First sign things were a miss, did not have the right socket and it took me 3 trips to the store to get it right. I need to know of the best way to lock the crank or the balancer to lossen the H-Balancer bolt? Is this a reverse thread bolt? water pump looks new and bearing feels o.k., the PO who had it bought it when it had 75,000 miles and told me the Tbelt was changed at 110000 but the water pump had never been changed. This vehilce now has over 220,000 miles this is why Im doing the Tbelt and thought I would do the Wpump while I was in here, still change wpump you think?

Something else Please, thank you. I'm changing the water pump regardless (220,000 mile) it is not leaking but I'm hear a noises that sound Like a pulley or some thing like that making a "slushing" "rusty" rubbing" kind of sound and only really noticeable at idle. Water pump? Or is there another component in the belts "circuit" that is prone to going bad? That may not make sense I guess it could be any thing from the Alternator , PSpump, smog pump, AC pulley, etc.

Ah Cool, Big help guys thanks. I figured if it takes the average Joe 2 to 6 hours on a standard Pathfinder than if I'm lucky it might take me a day and half with a vehicle possessed by some entity from a Steven King book. I figured while I'm doing the T-belt and pump I would have a Catholic friend of mine get his priest over to the house to do a little exercising/exorcizing, which ever, Lords know I need both. In a previous post I mentioned the vehicle was "wobbling", I accuse the front end. What are some of the symptoms of that middle drive shaft bearing going out? Plus on the front end, I would assume the my ability to twist the tie rod ends effortlessly back and forth is not a good thing?

What I am about to ask is speculative and directly proportional to a persons skill and the condition of the vehicle. How much time should I expect it will take for me to do the following job: Timing belt and water pump. Shop manual labor time is what I guess I'm looking for. You DO NOT have to take into consideration all the problems that this vehicle has all ready given me,. I'm trying to get a ball park figure so I can tell my wife how long to stay at the mall.

OH HELL YEA!! Sweet ,Sweet, ride Guy I'm a novice on this SUV/Pathfinder stuff so don't hurt your self laughing when I ask this 1. What is the Terrano/Pathfinder? 2. Are those silver rocker panels available as an add on to a standard 95 XE Pathfinder and in different colors?

"How does she drive?" I'm not use to any thing that stands over 9 inches off the grown so I'm not sure what I was expecting. For the money she drives fairly well and looks like it will get much better gas mileage than my 67 Cougar. The front end has some "wobbled" between 35 - 50 MPH, I'm figure the tires need balanced. The steering wheel has some slop side to side about a 1/2 inche once the slop is compensated for than the steering gets real sensitive. I can see that it could be real easy to over correct the steering and do a barrel roll down the highway.

Buttoned up the exhaust system last night and drove her to work this morning. I will drive it a couple more days before starting in on the T-Belt and water pump. Hope fully nothing else will happen during this time.

They make a gray, over the counter sealant, O'Reillys has it. I think it's a generic "fits all" kind of stuff

Your right I would LOVE to have a chain BUT before we get to far away from exhaust studs. I picked the supposed upgraded stud from the Dealer and they DO NOT go in as easy as the original studs, they look the same as the old ones. Trying both the new and old in the same hole the old one hand spins andbottoms out but the new one gets about 2 threads in than stops. When I unscrew the new ones it looks like the thread are being flattened out on the stud but the old one comes out of the same hole looking just fine. Is it possible they gave me the wrong studs or is the part of the upgrade stud?

What stage of NOT off is it? Is it loose but the bar and tail housing won't come off? If it not separating from the middle plate I found that there is some reverse psychology needed. Instead of beating (use a rubber mallet if possible a hammer could brake the case) on the tail housing part tap on the front housing,for some reason when mine was stuck this is how the tail house came loose. Hope it work.

YES! YES! YES! I got all them little peckers out!!!!! I used a pair of long nosed needle nose and was able, with a lot of force, to spin the extractor out of the center of the stud. Than I soaked the crap out of the thing, jamed a square "Easy Out" into it and SLOWLEY backed it out. A quick note: a broke a drill bit and can not find the tip I don't know what the odds are of it landing inside the exhaust port but I stuck a magnet inside each port and I put my fingers in ther and didn't feel any thing so I guess I'm o.k. Now to get the replacement studs and remount the exhaust system. Thanks for every thing guys Quick question; after how many miles should the timeing belt be changed? Next on the list Timing belt and water pump. Any thing I should be aware of going into these projects?

Things were a hit an a miss at first. I bought and tried about every different type of bolt extractor that exists, finally I was able to get a good enough bite on the back stud and 3 hours into the operation I got it out. I was PUMPED ready to go after number 2, now that I know the "drill" Ha-Ha. This one started much better, I pegged the middle of the stud... went through the sequence of drill sizes to get to the appropriate one for the extractor, inserted the extractor and gently started to turn the stud out YES she is turning than I heard a snap and the extractor is in my hand MINUS the tip. AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! I'm not a violent guy. My temper is such that I can get very pissed off at inanimate objects, this temper DOES NOT permeate over to inaction with my fellow man BUT my wife and kids know that when I get upset at such things it's best to be "out of site out of mind". My neighbors are aware of this also from past projects outside the garage It must have been lunch time when the Easy Out broke because I noticed all the families on the block started getting into their cars to go some where I thought to get something to eat. I didn't think I was yelling that loud to penetrate the walls of the garage but hind sight they could of heard my in Oklahoma. Any advice guys? I'm getting mentally worn out, not giving up just running into to many obstacles. The extractor that broke was a screw type it did not brake off flush so there is about a hair of it that sticks out further than the stud. Do I try and chisel out the Extractor? There is very little room to drill around it, I've tried. I can not drill into the extractor not with the bits I have, Damn so close but so far. I'll I need is one or two more turn and I think I can grab the threads 500 dollars to remove these things is still to much money but it's getting close to acceptable.

If I could interject a very novice opinion. Do to my over whelming amount of post regarding my own problems most know I'm not an expert on Pathies. If your vehicle were carbureted I would say you had a "float" problem, clogged jets or something more fuel/spark related. What made you first think it was a trannie isse? You mentioned putting a glass pack on, did you mess with the oxygen sensor? Did you cut out the other muffler? I'm just throwing out some stuff, may not even be worth considering.

On the drill thing, was that a Dremel type drill or a regular generic drill? My standard drill will not fit between the wheel well and frame. Unless I have about a 5 inch long drill bit I will not be able to get to the bolt.