vidro

Jacked her up and yanked the tire this is definatley a much better view of the situation ... straight shot BUT what kind of drills or drill bits did you guys use? Even though it is a straight shot it is to narrow to get a home drill in this area.

Found the following link on the WEB. You know there is a point in time when one must look deep into their soul and verify that they indeed have a fighting chance in life regardless of how bad they blunder in their decisions, opinions, and prospective. I never thought about taking off the wheel and liner, it really didn't look like it would make a difference, evidently it does. Stud removal

Do you think that the collector angle on the manifold would allow for the exhaust pipe to mount to it with little problem?

I have an idea about removing these studs that are broken in to the head. I've been soaking them in "Blaster" for the past week. Last night the one stud that still had threads sticking out side the head, I was able to twist out by hand. I'm thinking if this one was so easy, maybe, just maybe the other might be as loose. Now for the method of getting something in there to spin them out. Using Super glue gel or a 2 part solid epoxy, apply just a matchstick head amount on a nail, than try to stab it on the broken off stud. This would give me a handle to try and spin it out. I'm hoping that the bonding material strength is sufficient to get a good first spin, I'll let you'all know what happens. The worst that could hapen is I bond my hand to the engine block, than I will have bigger problems to worry about. Is there a gasket making solution that can handel high temperature.

Sounds like I'm way off on the cost of engine parts. Though I would rather spend 500 +, and have a rebuilt engine than 500 +, and only have some exhaust bolts removed.

Bolt extractors would work for 1 of them but the other 2 are broke off in the head. I have done nothing but stare at this thing for the past 3 days and outside of my eyes getting tired nothing has happened. I guess the family stories of the Great Manifold Fairy may have been exaggerated, that 's a real disappointment If I continue to procrastinate on doing anything I will whined up doing nothing, and what would be wrong with that? Some one give me a REALITY CHECK (payable to me) 1. Carbon monoxide poisoning? 2. burnt valves? Or am I being just a little to sensitive? The truth is I picked this vehicle up in preparation of my boys starting to drive in the next year and a half. I will probably not giving it to him but let him drive the vehicle. There is a difference, one is a gift the other is a carrot, some of you parents may be aware how that works. ANYWAY I want it to be as safe as I can possibly get it. This was not my first choice of vehicle to let my boy start driving in, I had been at the Army surplus store prior to my purchase of this vehicle but they had just sold their last Patton Tank.

Headers would be no problem. Can I kill 2 birds with one stone, do they make headers with the inverted bolt pattern? Than I won't pull the head I'll just get headers.

SLAP me silly and call me dog Sh@#. First let me apologize to all of you, you guys were right. Beings that this vehicle has been in the garage most of my ownership life and the front end has been pushed up to a wall, I never noticed those extra light in the front next to the turn signals. When individuals mention fog lights I invision the after market kind and the location they are placed on a vehicle, roof tops, hanging off the bumper, that kind of stuff. Yes, this thing does have fogs and yes that looks to be the button to turn them on. I haven't tried to turn them on since I'm in the middle of yanking off the head and the battery is disconnected. I'm sure some day I'll be able to try it.

Is there a fix for that? Since that is the side I'm working on I might look at swapping the stock manifold with something else.

No, I think you were right the first time. I hit the switch, my dog jumped up, ran around the front yard and wound up in the middle of the street. To bad that truck was moving so fast. Now I need to change the switch decal symbol

From what is left of the decal I have attached an illistration of what it might have looked like My bad, WEB site didn't like file type on my first attempt to attach

Would the heated seat option come with both seats having the option to be heated? I noticed when doing the research on this that most configuration for the heated seats showed 2 switches one for driver, one for passenger. But I have no idea it very well could be heated seats. I did stair at it harder the other night and to give everybody a better idea it looks like a key with 3 lines going thru it. The straight line that 3 lines are going thru has a circle attached to it.

If I stick an extra thick gascket in between the head and manifold would that be a temporary fix? The only real fix to this is to pull the head off and "Easy Out" or get or manufactor an inverted bolt pattern manifold and I really don't feel like doning this right now.

My dash is like that also, rear defrost button on dash next to hazard. The symbols is similar to what the heated seat decal would look like only because of the tree lines going across a longer line. When I detailed the interior of the vehicle I pulled the seats, no wires connected to the seats so how would the seat get heated? Plus these seats are cloth, not vinyl, or leather that would seem like a potential fire hazard.

No fog lights on this vehicle that I have noticed, I know that may sound strange but unless I am assuming a fog light as a standard out side light, no. I have headlights, running lights

The rear defrost is on the dashboard isn't it? It's the big button with the squiggly resistor looking icon, right. I thought "Shock support" but the decal looks nothing like a shock absorber. It may be irrelevant since it has an on indicator light that doesn't come on regardless of direction the switch is, but I sure like to know what was suppose to be working.

I have 95 XE, on the floor console I have the back window release button, the security set button, and one more that the decal has semi worn off. The decal on this switch has three short lines going through a longer line but that's about all I can tell. I thought heated seats but I don't have leather seats plus when I pulled them out there were no wires attached like to a heating element Any one know what this switch could be for?

Holy Crap!! Nissan dealer wants $500 + to start on getting these things out. For that much I'll pull both heads, replace the lifters, cam, timing chain, and water pump along with spending another $100 to have a machine shop pull the studs, and I would still be cheaper. I really don't want to spend that much time on this thing. I can not believe that there is not and inverted manifold that will mount on to this head. How about headers are they inverted to the original manifold? Do they make a universal Nissan manifold?

My worst fears. I mentioned after putting it all back together she ran great but I had an exhaust leak that I thought was a bad gasket in the collector area. I replaced that gasket and I still heard the exhaust leak. After further inspection I realize an exhaust manifold bolt was broken. During my removal of that manifold it was apparent it was not one bolt but 3 bolts broke, 2 of them broke off in the head the 3rd I think there is enough sticking out to get a pair vice grips on. This is on the passenger side so there is a little room to work. There are four holes around each exhaust port on the head, if I had an exhaust manifold with the opposite bolt pattern I could just get new studs and that would be it. Do they make a manifold that has reversed bolt patterns? I do not want to pull the head off to get these things out, if they don't have a reverse manifold what's my next solution?

Yes, I drove to work and back with NO problems. Could not of had better timing. It's been raining since last night and Water does not drain well at all around here. The Cougar of mine does o.k. if I go low and slow but sitting as hi as the pathy gets me feels like a much better vantage point. There is a vibration in the steering wheel and a shimmy in the front end, feels like tires need balanced. The steering also feels, for a lack of another word "loose" seems to be about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch play side to side. But at least she moves fast enough to even worry about these things now

Off hand anybody know what the speaker size is that fits in to the door panels? This is minor compared to what I just went through but it is as important I know I could measure across the hole and hope to get an accurate measurement but my present location is no where near the vehicle. If I can get the info in the next 12 hours I can stop off and pick up some speakers on my way back to my domicile. The hole looked to be 5x8, would that be right? My "ineptness" to measure this hole stems from a lack of confidence in my self from a recent event. I was trying to get kick panel speakers for my 67 Cougar and the size of the hole didn't coincide with what was really to go into the hole. It's a long, dry story so I will stop at that.

You're correct. That's why they stuck a bell on the local cow, so I can avoid hitting it and not deplete the cities population down to 10.

Well, she's done fellows. I bought this pathy with a bum trannie and because of that I got a fairly desent deal. Most have read my post on the daily trial and tribulation I have been going through to get the trannie rebuild. Well last night at 3 a.m. I put in the last screw and quart of GL 4 - 90 weight. I did not test drive or start it till the sun was up along with the rest of the house hold. She shifts like a champ and is very quite. Out side of a little exhaust leak this thing seem to be in good shape. I want to thank all of those that advised me throughout this ordeal. Total cost of this project: 150 for bearing kit 32 for clutch pad 60 preasure plate 22 T O bearing 8 for rear main 2 pilot bushing Total 274 buck I did not include that cost of grease, oil and those kinds of items because they were not used up and can be used on other projects. I may need to replace the exhaust gaskets which should run about 10 dollars. Thanks again

That was good. I'm such an analytical fellow I need it explained to me like that . I went to get the fly wheel resurfaced but they could not get the pins out of the wheel so I will use the sand paper technique

Let me ask you on the fly wheel issue. It will cost $25 to get it resurfaced, the only reason I can see for getting it resurfaced is because it is glazy. Is resurfacing something that should be done since I'm getting all new parts? Or will knocking the glaze off with the flywheel sandpaper be good enough?