unccpathfinder

Yea...I just want one time to have someone jump in and then see their face and them jump out...I litererally am the only person that can drive my truck...others have tried and were scared @!*%less in less than 200 ft But yea id start with tires and alignment and if u put manual hubs on u will be Good to go unless u have some rear link bushings wore out

My truck can wonder on a bump dry pavement t 1-3 feet...wet is ugly at least a lane if I'm not on the wheel but that's all bent geometry...I want someone to try to steal it sometimes when i got it idling so i can kick their ass once they wreck it 10' later if they don't stall It and can't figure out how to refire

I don't think its alignment...I have all sorts of issues on dry pavement with bad geometry...alignment can always help but slicks in wet or snow can give u more.issues than alignemt...if it drives good on dry I bet it's tires more than alignment

^no...far from.monster truck...just capable 37s fit on a Chevy with a 3" sl and 3" body...when I do mine it will fit 37s but 42s for a mud bog

Awesome...I haven't got his 4 link yet but plan on it and plan to run 37s so def interested in this thread...u talked to steve..he has some.good connects and may be able to.get a sye designed and built if enough people are interested... Thinking outside the box and know about a dozen bud heavy...could u weld up a brkt and fit a bushing and maybe a spring to limit the slip out of the trans and then do a slip shaft...wish I could sketch it...I've never really heard of a double slip but if u could limit the slip yoke it'd be.like a limited sye...either that or put a spacer on the rear axle but that gets scary...so put a 3" bl and move.the engine/transfer back by 1.5"...I thin that'll fit...it'd require custom engine and transfer mts but that should be pretty easy to do I wanna do 37s and maybe shorten my wheelbase by 2-4"

I hear ya...If I get that job down there my buddy that was there in moab with the jeep and myself are getting a hard body and a trailer and then its game on...if I had a place to park'em id have a 95 and 97 for $2k and one would get a top end rebuild (broken tbelt) and sold to get parts for a trail rig...would rob loom a lot like ures but not so elegant and def abused to the Max

That's basically what I was getting at....this truck isn't as critical as newer emissions vehicles...I mean my buddy has different fuel maps for what octane, humidity, ambient etc to optimize his track tines in his ws6 but I don't think its that critical in our application..I would think nits more of the physical load than the combustion...someone go break out their thermodynamics book and run thru the calc's lol

I'm sure there's a snap ring but other than that no pretty straight forward

Once we settle down I'm def getting a plasma table and building a home made press break and a glorified harbor freight tube bender and ill be ready to rock... If i get the offer I want ill be designing stuff for bad boy buggies U have to hold on to this truck long enough from me to check it out at gone in like 3-5 years

No...if so life would be great....depending on the new job I may be able to do some work if I buy consumables but we shall see...

Is the ecu on a wd21 even smart enough to figure it out? I would think it would just run off the MAF and the fuel system shouldn't pressurize too much if all the vents r working right

They should only install one way...granted it can rotate around the bolt circle but That's no issue

I never really noticed except on climbs...and a lot of times the climb is there but it feels flat...I always watched the GPS to see what my rate of assent is

Haha ure the man ryan...my gf is pretty understanding and soon to be an understanding wife...whether she knows it or not lol...any woman that will let u drive 1800 miles to go wheeling with a 3 month old is understanding in my book... PS she wants me to make her pathy look like yours....thanks for the challenge lol

If u don't unlock the hubs the front CVS will still spin causing drag but the tcase should be in N so there shouldn't be any input to the front wheels

That sounds like it's in "2wd" BC if one auto hub is broken the other more than likely won't do anything since with an open differential will spin at the path of least resistance (one wheel off the ground or auto hub not engaging) The reason u would then get the side to side if that's the case is BC the rear is most likely open so essentially you are in 1wd...just counter steer and be light on the gas

Its all simple geometry to determine if you have enough slip (inwards or outwards) just need to know where full rebound and jounce are although full rebound won't happen unless you are jumping things typically If there is a concern on binding the u joints...u could look at phasing as I mentioned earlier or double cardan or CV joints and keep the slip yoke instead of going to a slip shaft Another thought would be to go to a 2 shaft setup but that would require tabbing of 2 deiveshafts and figuring out a midship bearing location and running through vibration calculations Also if there is enough slip available you could adjust pinion angle and maybe change the power angle

Yea...we did a 1" body and 3" susp on my buddies wrangler and had to put a double cardan shaft on his to help with drive line vibrations and u-joint life... And yes I believe steve is still running his stock rear shaft...I know before he did his new 4link it was still the stock shaft BC we had discussions on pinion angles and wearing out u joints and he hadn't had any issues... You should be able to find some drive line calculators out there where u can out in the data points to determine if the angles are too steep...also if you need to phase the yokes

Y do u need a slip yoke Eliminator on a wd21? Just asking since I've seen a lot of flex and never seen Anyone pull the shaft out of the transfer case...not saying its not possible just haven't seen it

Gotcha...yea I guess most of the wheeling I do I want torque at the low end and lots of skinny pedal=lots of broken parts unless I'm in the mud the the rpms r up...I honestly didn't see a lot of difference between no headers and headers but then again I didn't do any intake or exhaust work...straight headers leaves u with no torque available

I have the one before they switched yo badlands and it has done the job...only issue I had was shearing the bolt that held the wire to the spool so i upgraded to a larger bolt and haven't had any issues since

A lot of time over 5000rpm in a pathy? Whaaaa

If u feel it spinning...lay off the gas and don't touch the brake and steer towards the ass end or let it straighten out on its own... just today I had to recover from a fishtail gone bad...I slung the taco around a corner and when i straightened back up it wanted to go the other direction so i had to fix all of that...I've drawn the conclusion that I don't like leafed suspension on a pickup truck BC I've actually had my taco jump out on me on dry pavement

Any all terrain tread will be better than a radial...i have a 2008 Tacoma that has good meat on my tires left but it slides around a lot...when in doubt slow down and avoid puddles...

If u snap an axle shaft on the trail you may have to pull the diff cover (like I said not as easy on a h233b) but in a Chevy or ford or someone running d44s u may not have fluid and need to remove axle axle shafts or get debris out if a shaft has snapped and u may have a spare shaft but no spare fluid...