unccpathfinder

i noticed when i tried to put the snap ring and washer back in the washer's diameter was too big so it would engage the cam that is normaly engaged by the turning of the knob from free to locked...hince the hubs were always locked no matter what the hub was set to... so i put the snap ring on and it worked fine...heres some pix of the diff situations... opinions? 1st pic is nothing done just the innerds of the hub... 2nd pic is with the washer in place (notice how it covers the gear) last pic snap ring in place

sounds about right...a tip is if it does it again u can keep bumping it till it cranks but u can also get out and rock the truck back and forth and it'll usually move it off the bad spot...

bad cross reference...old were still good...repacked and installed...forgot about the damn stud problem with warns so i popped a stud and it being the 3 day weekend every1 is closing early or not open so i just put them snug till i can get new bolts... 1 last question the snap ring and retainin ring dont have to be reinstalled correct? b/c if i install it it keeps the cv locked in and wont go to be free...from what i see nothing can hurt it by not having a retaining clip or bolt (cv's arent threaded for a retaining bolt) the instructions were kinda confusing on if that was just for toyotas and geo's or what so they work how they are but just was curious...

the old bearing placement on spindle.... the new bearing placement on spindle...

ok i think the outter bearings are wrong...or maybe they're not since this is my 1st time doing wheel bearings... problem is the outter bearing doesnt slide all the way onto the spindle...it stops on the threaded part for the locknut...i cant even get the locknut to catch a thread to tighten it down thinking that it needed to be pressed on but it came off fairly easily so i think that the bearings have the wrong inner diameter....

no1 in charlotte carries that stupid tool...so off to walmart to buy a cheap socket and gonna make my own.... :furious:

well not exactly yet...was planning on making 1 b/c advance didnt have 1 and napa wanted like $35 for it...but i'll prob end up going to get it it'd prob make life a lot simpler

this weekend im going to try and tackle changing my rotors, front wheel bearings, and convert over to manual locking hubs...i was wondering any common problems folks run into when doing this...also on the outter bearings do i need the racers or will the old 1's be ok to use b/c the guy at napa said they were built into the spindle and i shouldnt need to chagne them cuze i got home and realized that 1 of the racers wasnt on the bearing... how difficult is getting the preloading to work out on the bearings b/c the book makes it seem like its gonna be a pain... do i need a slide happem to pull the hub or rotors b/c the book doesnt seem to mention anything about it?] (book being factory service manual)

couple places i've gone wont run it b/c it's too much work for them and the only solution they had was dropping it down and it'd be super low and def ripped off thru the 1st semi-serious hole...didnt know if there were any guys out there with true duals

im getting the doug thorley headers and was interested in what kind of exhaust i should run with them... would a custom dual with h or x pipe be possible? any other thoughts or opinions?

you guys better fill up tonight cuze the price per barrel just went up above $70... man jack up the corolla put some mudders on & sticker "Pathfinder inside" and u'll be good to go sorry to hear about that...i just quit driving as much now that shcools back in bought a bike and ride a mile or 2 to class and back everyday so its not too bad till it starts rainin and gets cold...

man dont do that...u gotta keep on listenin then they'll get into it...got my roomate to a country concert last night and he had a hell of a time...his dad was like WHAT YOUR WHERE?.... Usually turn the tunes down on the trails listening to whats going on...but will have anything from ac/dc to disturbed to david allen coe playin in the background...no techno or rap for me tho very true...i've been listenin to the jason aldean, keith anderson, hot apple pie cd's lately along with the newest trace adkins cd "Ayooo Y'all Play somethin country" ~B&D

lemmie know how that goes im going to order mine from carolina 4x4 down the road here in a couple days...but i heard off of a different board or maybe somewhere on here that most guys had leaks with the thorley gaskets (i think it was cuze they're thinner than the OE's) after a month or so and said go buy the ones from napa...

if u pour a coke over it i'll do the same thing...but be a lot more stickier but thats usually just a quickstop fix what Precise said should be the way to do it correctly....i have an 87 and my clamps actually broke 2 times due to the corrosion one time and the other was the positive runs down to the starter and rubbed thru against the frame and melted a battery...so i hacksawed off the aux. hookups (leaving the hole and flange for the bolt to tighten it all up...then bought a new post clamp ran the bolt thru both tightened it up and it worked great till the corrosion ate thru the new clamp about 3 years later...so i recently redid it but the new post also had an auxillary tab so i could hook up the amp and lights off of the main post and not worry about getting the bolt thru amp lead, light lead, positive cable, aux hookups tab, and post clamp

one way to avoid that is have them appraise it sometime B4 the wreck...cuze sometimes u have a lot better than book value (it was a tip from my insurance co for my truck but still havent gotten around to it in the 5 years i've had her)

too lazy to read so sorry if its been posted above...but possibly a bent shift fork....or maybe u were just at the "sync speed" i donno what its technically called but u can shift without a clutch from one gear to another (But can tear up synch gears in the tranny) and maybe the slope was steep enough that gravity just pulled it down to neutral

did u check the tension on the timing belt to make sure the tensioner didnt break and possibly just slacked up letting her get outta time...fuel pump primes up when u first turn the key on?... or maybe it jumped a tooth or 2 just a thought

no b/c of the economic success of the oil companies in america...and how we cant build more refinaries and what not...its kinda like back in the day when rockerfeller had half the oil and the other guy had the other half...then they busted it up into a bunch of smaller compainies to distribute lower price wars...but now its all becoming a couple main groups and they want to make more $ so gas goes up b/c we have lots of crude oil just not refined... 5 years...everything will be diesel...then in another 15 or so it'll be all fuel cells(which are already being used in some 3rd world countries already as power stations)... hyrdogen wont explode thats the #1 myth of it...

only 5 hp? i was hopin for a lil more than that...guess i'll have to throw that B&M shifter sticker a friend of mine gave me on the back for another 3 i reckon

6 months isnt too bad...i gotta friend that lost his for 3 years...he ran from a cop for like 2 mins on an adrenaline (sp?) high and realized what he was doing went to stop hit a tree due to front brake failure and the cop was gonna let him go b/c it was a misunderstanding of him street racing his buddy in a camaro but they were just cruisin like 5 over...he doesnt street race does everything on the dragstrips and had all his time slips in the glove box to show that and the cop was like i feel bad u wrecked ure car i'll just let u go since it was a mistake i dont wanna ruin ure life...another cop showed up arrested him and he lost his liscense for 3 years...judge told him he shoulda siad he was intoxicated and he woulda lost it for a year...i find that to be stupid b/c i find some1 with excessive speed safer than some1 thats intoxicated IMO one thing i have learned from him is downtime on driving means uptime on the vehicle...hes got an 2000 ws-6 trans-am and has bumped the HP up from around 300 to about 385 right now working towards his goal of 400-450...its a sweet car... i might be up for the run in URE...

had that problem... but corrected that with a punch after my breakage and had the heads off to mark TDC... but i think we have like a 2-3 tooth tolerance so if ure timing was that far off u woulda ate some valves so im sure if its running fine without the alternator on then its in time and possibly u have the belts on in the wrong groves on the crank so it binds the motor and stalls it out?? if ure unsure of TDC take a welding rod or something like that and pull the #1 plug and turn the motor over by hand w/ a wrench until u see the stick start to move down then play with it back and forth until u find the peak and this will be TDC then u can check the marks on ure cams to see if they're where they're suppossed to be to ensure ure in time **note** make sure its long enough that it wont fall down in the cylinder if ure near BDC cuze this would be BAD hope that helps a lil

well thats what i did...but it broke when i was puttin it back on so it's been super glued a couple times with several chunks missing here and there...cuze no1 will sell u just a needle they want u to buy the entire speedo... but this next sem im gonna CNC me a new 1 that wont melt again...but till then i think im fixing to paint a toothpick white and make a hole with a strait pin and press her on

my doors didnt come cut for speakers and i dont wanna break body clips or panels so i built a box for 4 4.25 speakers and took my cab light assembly down cut a hole in the box and mounted the light to that with a custom bracket and its about 2 in high in the front and 3 in the back so ure head wont hit it...and i put kenwood 6x9's in the back (below the triangle window) they fit easily only problem is taking almost every body panel loose... my cuze has a 95 and didnt have any problems putting 6x9s in the rear roof...she did herself in like 30 mins B4 i had a chance to drive over and help her out

is the needle bent (melted) and touching the back of the faceplate...i've gone thru 2 needles since i got my truck and the sun hits that side and melts it enough to where it gets against the faceplate...mine wont drop below 25 and it hangs up at like 45 until u hit about 60 or so then it'll jump up and gets stuck again and if u hit 85 or so it'll jump again...if u beat on the dash mine will go up to the speed ure' going...donno if that applies at all but its what i've had mine do

companion tools at sears are about half to 1/3 the price of craftsman...i havent used their air tools yet but am planning on buying thier package set for like $75 b/c i've used their basic mechanics tool set for about 6 years now and none of my tools have broken and they have fixed tons of stuff on my truck as well as other trucks even after getting soaked and closed up for a night after changing a buddies waterpump in the pouring rain... they're cheaper price wise but the tools i've used of theirs seem to be a good buy