RedPath88

You can just tap a parking light wire for this. But only use the P.Light lead to run a relay. Run the main power for the driving lights through the relay from the battery.

The one inside the cabin, ot one of the small ones on the linkage under? Linkage boots... dealer Shift boot inside the truck, post in the parts wanted section here on the forum, hit a wrecking yard or the dealer.

Ok yes we were, sorry about that. For the input used to trigger the alarm when the door is opened, you want to use the RED/BLACK wire that is in the front kick panel. There are two of them (red/black wires), so you need to probe them both to see which one shows a negetive(-) signal when the door is open. As long as your alarm is looking for a negetive(-) input, then you can connet directly to this wire, no relay is used as it is a direct input to the alarm module.

Backs, and no, they don't all have them... in fact some of them don't even have a split bench in the back Parts truck I bought for the trans... Solid bench, has the lever but does not recline... only solid bench I have ever seen.

Yes, my truck does have them, also adjustable backs on the rear seats

By the accelerator

My notes were on a wiring schematic and what I wrote in for the door locks was directly above my notes about the dome light. The relay is used on the dome light, not on the door locks. But that is only because my alarm was able to be set for a negative(-) pulse for the door lock/unlock circuit. If yours can only output a positive(+) signal, then you will have to use a relay on it

(-) Black/Red in the kick panel (LH kick panel on the LH Drive models, yours may be in the RH kick panel) And according to my notes, I wired it through a 12v relay. But I will try and verify that tomorrow EDIT: See post #5

Replied to you PM, gotta dig out my notes again, I'll get back to you asap

Ok so after a run around at one store (different from the one noted above) a third one exchanged the starter for me. Installed and tested, 15 successful cranks out of 15 attempts. I'll give this a week or two before I convert back to stock circuit layout (remove the relay) and see if that mod was needed (in my case) in the first place

Unless they had a locker of some sort, I highly doubt it because the open diff would have sent power to the broken side since it would have been the path of least resistance... unless it was completely bound, but that likely would have caused other problems. Which means, even when your transfer case is in 2wd, the entire front drive train is turning, due to the axles being solidly locked to the wheels. R50's had them, WD's to my knowledge, never did.

We all do (for the most part anyway), it's split on these trucks. This is why an adapter is needed for aftermarket stereos Explanation here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25128

Audio antenna... FM iirc

I think you may have answered your own question there, the FSM shows them as 33M/100M They are pretty much centered in the diagram while yours are offset to the LH side, but they are likely the same connectors. 1994 FSM EL80-81

lol Ok at first I was but that makes more sense!

Did you read the prior posts? I already did that... and I did it without cutting anything The test lead I ran was just to eliminate everything except the starter/soleniod itself. It was nothing more than a jumper to directly power the solenoid/starter, before pulling it and heading down to the parts store for testing. Did not even require the key to be turned

Pics could help ID

Exceptions to every rule

Trust me, I tired. Apparently O'reilly is enforcing new rules on Schucks stores now, they have some new machine that can print results and they have to include those will all warranty replacements now... and they have a new manager there to "make sure" the new rules are followed *loves corp America* Before now I never had a problem with them honoring a warranty simply by my word. Well other than when Schucks first bought out Al's Auto Supply, they tried much the same that O'reilly is now, but that did not last long. Yes the solenoid is replaceable, but the entire assembly is under a Forever/Lifetime Warranty, so I'll just wait till it dies or see if I can kill it sooner. Oh and yeah, first start after putting it back in (with the blanket installed) it friggin clicked. And has several times during test starting. So obviously it is getting worse, hopefully it dies at a convenient time and location Before taking it out of the truck, I even ran a new test lead (brand new wire) directly from the Battery to the connectors and I got a click 2-3 times out of about 10. But on their machine, they did five tests and it passed all five I did think about something else, a side-benefit if yo will about the blanket. I have an oil relo, so it's a non-issue for me now, but for those who do not, an installed heat wrap/blanket will help keep some oil out of the starter during oil changes

Meh, not always the case. Generally they work fine, but as with anything mechanical, over time they wear and can quit operating as designed. Rebuilding them will restore them to factory. But, for most wheelers manuals are the preferred option. Or flanges if the rig is hardcore and dedicated to off road use.

It's the reliability and strength of manual hubs. Autos are convenient, because they engage and disengage automatically. All the driver needs to do is shift into 4wd and go, then when done, shift back into 2wd and back up a few feet and they disengage. But there are two distinct disadvantages to them. There is a dead spot where you will not have 4wd. When you shift into 4wd, you must move forward or back before they engage. If your stuck and cannot move, then they will not engage. Along with that, is when changing directions, they must unlock, then lock back in in the opposite direction. Although not normally a problem for the average driver, it can be a major one for those who engage in the off road hobby. The second problem is that they are not as strong as a positive locking manual hub. Stock Nissan hubs found on Hardbody trucks and after market hubs are, as a rule, stronger and more reliable than the auto's are. Drive flanges are a permanent non-selectable (auto or manual) lock, coupling the wheels to the axles.

Post in the parts wanted section, someone has got to have one around here As for the troubles with the belt change, have you read 5523pathfinders's HowTo or any other threads covering it on here?

If in doubt, changing it is the best course.. then you know for sure when it was last done, and what odometer reading it will again need changed. If money is tight you can take the chance and push it until then, or until you can afford it (which ever comes first) Doing just the belt is certainly possible, if the tensioner is in good shape then you don't "have to" change that. If only the belt is changed it brings the price down to practically nothing (assuming you do the work yourself) But adding the extra for at least a tensioner and ideally a water pump is best. And remember that the life of the belt is from the last time it was changed, not a set odometer reading. If it was changed at 180,000 km or even the "earlier" 170,000 km that you mentioned, it was done late If you can get paperwork that shows exactly when it was done, I would do that Now if your going to push it, then I personally would knock 10-15% off of the earliest estimate of 170K And restart my count there. Just remember, that a few bucks saved now (by not changing it asap) could end up costing a lot more later.

Well time wise it's kind of a judgment call really. Mileage/km numbers assume you drive it normally. If it has been sitting for years, then it is usually a good idea (sure can't hurt) to change the belt, no matter the number of miles/km's, before firing it up.