RedPath88

Do a search, or look around. Things like... Ecu Self-diagnostic Procedures ...can be found

I can do bigger (which provides more detail), but the glare would still be there. PM me if you want it.

Cool, can't wait to see how it looks

EDIT: This is a follow-up to talks in Flares for you P1 Ok Siggi sent me some new and better pictures of the flares that he has on his Terrano. He did a little more looking into it after I asked about the year of Toyota that the flares came off of. As many of you knew I questioned that because of the shape of the flares when compared to the shape of an '88 Yota's fenders. It turns out that the truck they came off of was not an '88, it was actually an '80 (which makes more sense to me). For reference, that body style falls on 79-83 Toyota's here in the states. if not the rest of the world. *Just a reminder, he swapped the flares front to back/back to front to make them fit his truck. HERE is a picture of the truck that he got the flares from. (Front one) Here are the pics he sent me... As you can tell those are made of fiberglass. As far as I know Bushwacker flares are made of plastic, so they are not the same. Also Siggi is pretty sure that the flares he has are Icelandic made. Many thanks go out to Siggi for his willingness and work to help me figure this out he really is a great guy PS: In an attempt to keep this semi-friendly to the dialup members, I have only posted small versions of the pictures. If you want/need the larger full sized pictures (1632x1224) PM me with an e-mail address and I will send them to you. Combined they are 1.98MB. While it’s nothing for broadband, it is however a lot for dialup, when posted in a forum thread.

What luck is right.. That sucks man. ....................^^^What he said^^^

Easier isn't it! :bow: I have never replaced a clutch and removed the TBars, so I can't really speak from experience. But, what I can say is that I disassembled less and had less to reassemble in the end

BFG's rating of 50psi on the AT's is for attaining the maximum load of the tires (i.e. when your towing/hauling an extremely heavy load).. not for normal driving

Welcome I have 31x10.5 BFG AT's and run 28-32... tire shop recommended 28.

Thanks! I will keep that in mind But as of now, I believe I have found a replacement engine... (luck like this is not a normal thing for me) I looked at it tonight and probably pick it up tomorrow. And hopefully get it in this weekend... we'll see. (tips on this, anyone?) It's not the lowest mileage and I could not hear it run , but it's "guaranteed" to run (whatever that means)... again, we'll see. ***Now if I could just stumble into a cheap as hell VG33!!*** :::Hoping this thing works out:::

Yeah, no kidding.... $120 to ship it here (WA State)

That question has been running through my head since I discovered the damage... and still I come up blank, I know of nothing that has occurred that could have caused that.

Yeah its time to start exploring options... Somewhere in this forum or WD21 is a topic about what cars the VG30 is in. I need to narrow it down to the models and years that an interchangeable VG30 is in. I and E block/heads interchange? (ie just swap intake?)

Are you by chance talking about the Lokka Lock Right? I know you said Lock "Rite" but I could not find anything about an Australian made Lock "Rite"

Yeah, aside from what people try to (and often do) sell stuff for, the shipping charges are getting WAY out of hand! pssd

Thanks k9sar.... but it looks like things are a bit worse that just the key... Here's another bad pic, but I think you get the idea (I outlined the problems, Timing keyway is the worst) :::Huge Sigh:::

OK I managed to get a bit of time in on it tonight... Removed the fan, the fan shroud and the accessory belts. Removed the crankshaft pulley.. Which BTW, was a MAJOR PITA. I actually stripped out one pullers threaded shaft doing it (Luckily I had a second puller). I also removed the lower timing cover. As I was trying to take the CS Pulley off is when I noticed something different from Friday when I looked at the T Belt after it stopped running. The belt and cams do not move when the crank was moved. After getting the cover of, it was verified that the crank shaft timing belt sprocket was freely spinning on the crankshaft. This is where I had to leave it, hopefully I will be able to get out there tomorrow and take the belt off and take a closer look at the sprocket and CS.

Bingo Got them today... Now my rant about the USPS... I sooooooooooooo hate them... DJ you slapped a "hard to NOT see" orange sticker on them that said "DO NOT BEND OR FOLD" and still, they bent the folder in half to get it in my PO Box. This when they simply could have put that little yellow slip in there telling me that I had something behind the counter But all is not lost, they are going to be alright, nothing that could not be smoothed out

“Time” it's all about the time to dig in. I get a few minutes here and a few there but never enough in at any one time to really dig in. Have to study my A$$ off for an important test Friday and at the same time, try to find time for the Path (which is also important) Sucky thing about the test is that I don’t exactly know what it will cover… ME ll ll ll ll V V

Nice... So one day, is that what your Paths going to look like? lol

LOL That's Great!!

You know, I read somewhere about how people need to read the text.. or something like that... but I don't remember

I do believe you were.

Or kill someone!

More pretty pictures!!!! To much time passes between first post and the final pics being posted... expect me to reread it all :::he must have wanted to be a school teacher or something::: :::and slinks away:::

Looks good Rami, what size tires are you running? EDIT: As it was brought to my attention... Rami has 31 x 10.50 BFG M/T's. Like it says at the very top.