RedPath88

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that... they constantly emailed me ( Where’s that moderator when I need him sly ) This finally stopped a couple weeks ago. Slick, aren’t you moving to Oregon? :confused:

Well you could start here... Dependable Auto Shippers No I have no idea how "dependable" they really are. I just priced them a couple months ago when I was looking at a Path on eBay. Never had any intent of buying the truck, was just curious what the cost would have been. To bad I don't remember how much it was.

If a fine looking lady asks the question, then we know answer. LOL This it probably true! Edit: As for paiting the inside... A "little" and only if done "right" looks good to me. But crossing the line of "to much' is easy to do.

Yeah, keep them unless metal bands are sticking out of them Anyway, nice tires and rims GG!

Be aware that if you do that, when you pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case, you will dump your fluid all over the ground. So either plug it or do as I did when my clutch broke 50miles from home... tie the shaft up and make sure you put some forward tension on it You could also tow it flat.. I would still disconnect the shaft. Or haul it on a trailer. The prior time that I had to tow my Path, U-Haul would not rent me a to dolly for it, because it "weighed to much" for the tow vehicle... a Toyota Tacoma. Jerks, anyway I asked how much for the F150 or 250 they had. Well according to them they can't do it either! Just be aware, say that you’re towing a Geo Metro or something if you get a small/mid sized box truck. I ended up at a Hertz rental place and they did not care what I was towing. And the Tacoma did it without a second thought. When my clutch went out, the tow vehicle was 78 (I think) Chevy, with a recently installed 454.. up from a 350.

I think the confusion between people was just how each person was reading it... I think some took your original post as the front diff was already there. Others understood it as everything "but" the drive related components (drive shaft, diff, half shafts, hubs, etc) was there and the same as a 4WD model. In the second case you are saying that all you would have to do is acquire the drive components and install them (Which to me, makes sense). As 88 mentioned, it does not make sense for Nissan to make two entirely different front ends for a truck that is otherwise the same thing. And before anyone pipes up and say's "what about the 2WD HB?"... Well that's a different beast. The 2 and 4WD Paths afaik, sit exactly the same while from the factory the HB's do not. So why make two different things when they can just "not" install a few items and they would have a 2WD version to sell. And yes I understand that some items may still be different.

Well you see one guy climb out alive...the car thats just sitting there...i dunno... Yeah I was thinking the same thing... it did not show the driver getting out, nor did I see any movement at all.

SAS = “Solid Axle Swap” or removing the entire IFS (Independent Front Suspension) which includes the drive components (if it's a 4X4 to begin with). You then replace those items with a solid axle assembly from another truck. Depending on what you plan for this truck, I would say that if your going to do the amount of work required for either, in the long run a SAS would be your best bet. Off road you would most likely end up much happier with the solid axle due to the limitations of IFS. But if you don’t have the tools and skill (or help from some one ho does) then the IFS might be best. I also agree with others that if you do decide to simply make your truck 4WD like any other Path out there, buy a truck with a blown engine, rusty frame or even smashed rear end… it would probably much cheaper than buying them piece by piece. As for the shift boot, if you cut and hack that then you “might” be able to make room for a second lever and keep it looking decent. But, I would not count on it. You could also try and come up with some kind of custom one. But this is what a 4WD shift boot looks like...

WOW, your not kidding they are big. As a favor to those here on dial up, could you possibly resize them. or change the tag from to http:// Like this... path1 path2 path3 path4 path5

LOL OK then disregaurd my last post Ahh, it still might be good info for someone else.. (perhaps unwilling to ask )

Perhaps this might help... How The Radiator Works

The coolant is forced out of the system and into the overflow tanks by the pressure that is built up as it heats up. When the coolants temperature drops a vacuum is created and the fluid is pulled out of the tank, back into the radiator through the same tube that it flows out of.

And what did he say to that? sly Guy's don't dig body damage, we like it clean and sleek.. but ready to get down and dirty! sly Some mechanical damage is not alway's a bad thing... makes them easier to catch

Yeah but looks can be very deceiving... solid "looking" ground can turn out to be truck swallowing mud. Several years ago a buddy and I were out looking for new places to wheel. On the way down one road with me in the lead we passed a little stream.. well actually just a trickle of water. I passed it up, as did he and we continued on. The road came to a dense treed end so we turned around. Well on the return I again passed it up, but this time he could not resist the urge to get a little mud down the side of his white truck. He drove the few feet of the road and into it, then without warning it swallowed it driver’s front tire almost completely (33in tires) In my rear view I could see the whites of his knuckles and the shear terror/shock in his eye's Every attempt to get himself out only tipped his truck even further and closer to landing on it's side. Finally he decided to get out.. that cause it to move as well. I ended up standing on the right rear tip of his bumper to offset the weight transfer. He took my place once out and I repositioned my truck, hooked a strap between the two and backed up till it was taunt (to stabilize his truck) We studied the situation for some time before deciding that the only way out of this was to drag his truck back and to the side. Took a little time but we finally got him out of there. Since then he has never gone in so little of water, without first getting out and testing it first

Would have been very handy. Yep, I *knew* where that was going.

We exchanged e-mails again this morning.. some more good info. When I have enough to warrant a post, I'll update you all.

OK he got back to me this evening and is pretty sure that the body style of an 88 Toyota in Iceland is the same as the ones here. (the one in the pic I posted) Unfortunately he did not see the truck that his flares came off of so he cold not be 100% sure that it was of that body style. A Grim said, the cuts in the rear are for the doors (which I never really doubted) the front crack is from trail damage. And if you notice a "dent" in one of the fronts fenders, that is where his patch covering the gas tank door notch, fell out The BFG's are 35.s after swapping on the 36's he had to move the front fenders up some. He also offered to take some pictures of the flares and send them to me... which I took him up on, but also asked if he does it, to do it when he has time. No huge rush After all, he’s doing it as a favor. I'll let you know more as I find out. Oh, almost forgot. He's pretty sure that the flares are Icelandic. However if he does send pictures of them on the truck, we will have something to compare others too... like the Bushwacker Cut Outs.

So, what did the 'scope tell you ? Personally, I buy VERY little from HF. The vast majority of it is crap. I actually bought a hand sledge there, and when I went to use it, I learned that it wasn't even case hardened !! Just a lump of iron on a stick, lol. Keep us updated please... B That's the thing about it, using the scope I can't exactly pinpoint if it's top or bottom... just that it is apparently cylinder #1. But now I am leaning more towards the top end. I knew it was not of the greatest quality when I bout it, but figured it was probably better than nothing at all. As for HF, your right.. you really need to be sure of an item before you buy it. Some things are worth the money but many are not.

Slick... .....Checked under the valve cover last night after it cooled.. Nothing seemed to be loose but I'll inspect it again today. .....I am not totally sure that it's in the bottom end. B... .....It's less than a 100 miles from 290K .....Have one, got it cheap a while back when it was even cheaper (on sale) from my local Harbor Freight. Clicky! MWS... .....Changed the oil two day's ago.. but did not use a heavier grade or additive. I may have to try that. Today it was suggested by a couple parts stores, that I pull the plug wire to the cylinder in question. If the tap quiets down or stops completely it's in the bottom end. If not, then it's top end. I tried it and nothing changed, other than the engine idling down a little.

That is a very good possibility.

I agree with 88, that a 4.3 would be a fine swap for a Pathy. if I could I would.. this is also something I have wanted to do to my Yota as well. As for a SB... B and 88 are right, LOTS of work but possible. (As shown in the pic)

The tap occurs only after the engine has warmed up and then slowly starts to build in volume. It's is a consistent tap that increases/decreases with engine RPM. Exhaust crossed my mind, but I am not convinced of that... though the exhaust noise has increased of the past two months or so. Another thought, although it does seem to be louder below the head (hard to tell because the volume difference is nominal at best) perhaps a bad lifter…

In the last two weeks I have been hearing a ever so slight "tap" but could not pinpoint its location. In the last two day's the tap has become a bit louder. So today a friend and I did some more looking (well "listening”) around and it seems to be loudest a little below the head at cylinder #1. Maybe a wrist pin? Is so, please fill me in on any experience you have with such a problem, including what was done to correct it or what amount and type of damaged occurred from its failure. . I have heard from some that it's not something that needs to be fixed "right now" but others say that it does. I see it as a "Yes it does" but that could be a problem, the path is my only viable transportation right now and I drive just short of 100 miles a day... sometimes more. Any and all info or advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Cool, can't wait to see final product!

Don't tempt me! sly