Animal

If I believed in luck and wishing, I'd wish you the best of luck. It's good that you aren't impatient or in too much of a hurry that you are just "slapping it back together" - that usually is when mistakes are made.

Are you doing this without a manual? I'd really suugest getting one that has the clearances, tolerances, ect. It would be a shame to spend all that time and effort then have a whiny trans or take out a gear or two. There is a special tool for installing the mainshaft and countershaft. It pulls the mainshaft in to the plate.

Timing belt may be well over due.

Or maybe the accessory circuit (fuse, relay) or fuseable link?

Don't forget a new pilot bushing! Also, if it were me, I'd replace the rear main seal while the tranny is out - next month or two it will be me (no problems, but figured I should some preventive maintenace closing in on 150K with original parts). I'd avoid off brand clutch and presure plates. Some may be good, but others may go less than 50K and there is no way I know of to tell. Most major brands offer a guarantee (even though this won't cover the labor) they have their reputation to protect.

Same here with family and friends. Funny thing is, my daughter's Corolla had nearly the same symptoms as those orignially stated and the problem was in the clutch; in spite of the fact she had it replaced less than 20K prior. Broken mounts will not cause the clutch to slip or require the pedal to be depressed any more than normal; oil will not normally cause the latter either. A busted pressure plate, among a few others, can cause all of the symptoms. It is difficult to remotely diagnose problems correctly. Even more so when you have to guess which symptoms to believe. Speaking of mounts, a friend complained about her mini van ejecting the oil cap. I thought, hmm, maybe a clogged PCV? Never seen one do that, but... Later, she said there was a load thump when she put it in reverse - didn't sound related, but... So, I got a chance to look at it and had her shift from forward to reverse while I watched from under the hood. Turns out the only thing holding her engine up was the transaxle! It was literally throwing the oil cap when she put it in drive. Now, that's bad mounts.

My hat goes off to you. I don't know how you picked the one correct symptom out of the three in, "...starts to slip ... starts to bounce ... i have to push it all the way to the floor to shift..." Guess I was reading too much in to it.

we're all happy for you.

Mounts may cause vibration, but not the other symptoms you mentioned.

That wouldn't be oil, mounts or anything that would show on the ECU. Maybe a master or slave cylinder. But, since you also said "it seems like it starts to slip then the entire pathy starts to bounce" it sounds like it is in the clutch assembly (clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing). Another possibility is the main drive gear bearing (input shaft bearing), but since the clutch is easier to fix, I'll bet that's it. When you pull the trans, check for wobble in the input shaft, just to make certain.

Thanks. Missed the comment while scrolling. Still looks more like an old bone to me.

OK, no one else has asked so I will. What the heck is the fossil of in #8?

Have you check the inner surface of the syncros? This portion has "normal" wear and is not apparent.

Ya know, I saw the picture and thought you must have taken it before removing the pin. Teach me to ASS-U-ME. Good to hear it isn't anything major. You are probably planning to replace all the bearings and bushings while you have it apart anyway. Right? If it were me and I could afford it, I'd do the syncros as well - wouldn't want to hear that grind 20K later going into 2nd or 3rd. -thnkboutit-

Let me see if I understand your correctly. On a 2WD, there are three external pieces that make up the case: 1. the transmission case is the largest, front most 2. the adapter plate is the smallest, located in the middle 3. the extension case is the rear most which is where the shifter mounts You have removed the transmission case and are now try to separate the adapter fron the extension case? If so, I do not believe you did this in the right sequence (extension case should be removed first), but the problem you are fighting is probably getting the seal between the adapter and extension to break loose. If the transmission case was (is?) still attached, you would place the assembly face down (extension pointing up) and tap lightly on the extension to get the seal loose.

Did you remove the bolts holding the extension to the case? If you have, you may need a rubber mallet tap them apart.

And next time you may find your truck sitting on blocks in the morning. They have to be loosing money on you.

I believe the rod should pull out of the arm when you separate the extension from the case. No? The pieces, as best I can see, appear to be either a spacer or thrust washer/bearing.

"striking arm" in a transmission? :confused: Thought that was only in baseball.

My '92 has 6x9 mounted over the rear wheel well. That's where they put the original rears, which I believe were slightly smaller, but 6x9 just fit.

Do a search. You'll find info on cleaning the switch.

Consider this: You are out in the snow, 12" on the ground and it's still comming down hard. Out of no where steps a (deer, elk, moose - your choice). You step on the brakes, but they do little. Impact is inevitable. Your best efforts fail and the beast has taken its last breath. You get on the cell to call your wife or best friend to tell them ... In the temp: I need some help! I'm stranded. In the pathy: I need some help! Fire up the grill. The choice is yours.

2wd or 4wd? I have rarely needed to go in to 4wd in the snow, but it is nice to know that it's there. The weight has pros and cons. On the upside, with decent rubber, you should have plenty of traction. The downside is that you need to watch the speed, particulary when going in to a turn. Though I would recommend using the Pathy in the snow, I'd hate to hear of anyone droping a trans in the middle of winter - in the middle of no where.

Least he could have done was use chrome. How about running the exhaust through one of those new ionic breeze things, you know, the one that converts smog and ozone into oxygen, then back to the intake? :X -alcohol-

I agree. I would try to find an inexpensive replacement. Well, OK, I would really pull it apart, check what is wrong as well what is wearing (may as well while I'm at it), price all new parts - including the springs, balls and detents that must have reached orbit inspite of heeding all the cautions. Then I'd throw all my parts in a box once I realized that even the $700 for a low mileage import is a deal and my time is worth something to me.