Animal

I'd start with the heavier guage wire and relays, before changing the bulbs. You may be satisfied with the stock wattage minus the voltage drop through the resistors ... I mean wires. I ran across a kit for doing this - it isn't as good as you can do yourself, but it is simple to install (I believe they called it "plug-n-play").

Good one. I'll try to remember to use it next time I do something stupid. But, it'll have to be in the wife's Xterra, my Pathy is open diff. Honestly, the LSD does take a bit to get use to cornering in the rain. I thought it was the tires at first.

Yeah, but you can't keep snow in those temps. Do you have any idea how well deer show up in the snow. I love the cold! -bounce-

Perhaps a FAQ section should be added. Maybe also MFAQ and QASFWAFTOA sections.

Or, look for the orange "LSD" sticker on the back of the diff. ;-)

In real cold temps, running the heater will delay the engine warm up. The heater coil is a mini radiator. Even on recirculate, the heat is exchanged with the cold cabin air (that's quite a bit in a Pathy) and somewhere around 20% fresh air (due to some requirement about suffocating). Set on fresh air is worse, of course. In addition, the defrost setting on newer vehicles (not sure which year this started) cycles the A/C - some braniac's idea to "dry the air", as if air at 12 degrees holds any measurable moisture! Running the fan on high makes it worse.

Meeting those standards is going to cost extra - a lot extra.

Sounds like a trend. Maybe I should mass produce the metal version and go into business.

Really!? The ones I am thinking of are rather (very) unique. I would have bet a considerable amount of cash that no one except (even then maybe) the dealer would have them -. but, I've learned not to bet on myself.

Mine are straight mechanical, but I believe it uses a similar part. My passenger side "little plastic part designed to wear out and break" broke about 5 years ago, so I fabricated a replacement part from some aluminum stock - now it is a "little metal part designed to never wear or break" - and haven't had a problem since. I am waiting on the driver's "little plastic part" to go. I am certain this would be a dealer only item. Whether or not they are in stock in some warehouse is another question.

Looks like they'll help keep the floor clean (catch the droppings). -Nice

I replaced all of mine years ago due to some WE-B-IDIOTS tire shop over torquing. I did not need to heat the hub, but, as I recall (so it's questionable), I had to remove the front hub due to clearance. I used WD40 and a sacrificial nut to prevent mushrooming the lug. When installing the new stud, I lined up the splines and used a spacer (socket or over sized nut) and lug nut so I could see it was fully seated.

The comparison is between a rebuild from a parts dealer with new one from dealer. If you could find a rebuilt original it would be much closer in price - a rebuild kit may even be cheaper. I would be very cautious swapping brake parts between models, even more between manufacturers. I would personally avoid it. There are even differences between rear drum and rear disc for the same make/model/year.

I suggest finding another mechanic, or better learn to do it yourself. Google the topic read all you like. This is just one hit which contains the following: I have never expereinced water freezing up in the lines, but that doesn't mean it couldn't. You may end up replacing the master cylinder (which I originally also suggested), but it wouldn't hurt to bleed the system first. It may save you some cash.

I purchased poly bushings for mine (same year / similar mileage), mainly because I like a tight responsive suspension. If you want a "comfortable" suspension, stick with stock or other rubber. They're not bad - look how long the originals lasted. You can get Enegy Suspension for the front, but good luck on the rear link and panhard bushings. I called ES and Daystar, niether said they had a bushing that would fit. I finnally got some from 4x4parts.com (a.k.a. Automotive Customizers) and they aren't cheap, though probably less $$ than stock as Nissan replaces the arms, not just the bushings, IIRC.

Guess I read too much into your statement, "Basically there are only a couple companies actually making shocks". But I wasn't trying to be critical, only cautioning about the difference between parent companies and various products. I have heard some equating Monroe and Rancho because they are both divisions of Tenneco-Automotive. However, Rancho targets the off-road market whereas Monroe the pavement sector. They are both good shocks, in my opinion, but their similarity ends just after the stock holders.

Just because some are made by the same parent company doesn't mean they are made by the same plant or even the same parts nad process. Ultimately, you get what you pay for. Cheaper shocks cost less for a reason and typically that is not the sticker that comes in the box.

I will personally vouch for the Rancho 5000 series, though if you can afford it, I'd go with the 9000s. I would have if I had known.

My first guess is water icing in the line. A complete flush (bled until no dark fluid is left) of the lines would take care of this as well as any air. Make certain the air temperature is above freezing. If that doesn't fix things, it may be the seals in the master cylinder hardening, which would be best cured by replacing it (make certain to bench bleed it if you do).

I travel to CA on business every now and then - had the experience of being there for a 5.0 rattle. Yeah, I know, y'all don't think anything of a quake below 7, but I like to move on the ground, not the other way around. Call me a sissy, but I'd rather deal with the tornadoes and hurricanes (and snow and salt) - they give you some warning.

I'll deal with the salt rather than risk diving off a cliff that wasn't there yesterday. :X

I've verified that '90-''94 is the same frame, but my source doesn't go up to '95, though I am fairly certain it is the same - in case you are still considering this task.

I wouldn't waste the time, money and trouble on having the rotors turned. OEM rotors are fairly cheap - check prices at Rock Auto. The calipers, on the other hand, may be worth rebuilding, depending on the problem. If you are planning to keep your Pathy and do any towing or hauling, I'd upgrade all four to slotted/cross drilled and ceramic pads. You'll be amazed at the difference in stopping, especially if you have 31" or larger tires.

I'd put money on a bad cam seal. I have the same problem - doesn't leak enough to need to add oil between changes, but does build up over time. This isn't a pressure seal, so I doubt your over filling was the cause. It is a fairly common problem on these engines. Had I known about this (and other minor issues) when I changed my timing belt, I would have been prepared. Instead, I'll need to rip into it again when I have 6 or so hours to spare.

From your description, I'd look for something to swap the engine in to. A body that "isn't too bad" doen't seem to be worth the trouble. But that's just my opinion.