Animal

Are you seriously considering a frame swap? That's quite a task. I'd check the scrap yards for one that was rolled. Also, you could increase your chances by expanding the years, I believe '90-'95 were the same - I may be able to verify if someone doesn't chime in.

I must agree with Slick ... .... that does sound nasty.

I'm going to test this, maybe today, and will let you know what I find.

Shifted on the fly once years ago and got the "clunk...clunk" so I didn't do it again until this year and now it works fine. The only difference is now I have 31s and only SOF on soft surfaces. Anyone know anything about having to backup to disengage auto hubs? I've seen several posts elsewhere to this, but nothing in a manual. :confused:

Mine's tight, though after I removed it once (temporarily for more space) and put it back, I did need to retighten it after bouncing around a bit - just needed to seat itself, I guess.

Isn't this a '92, with OBD I (not OBD II), which, unless I am mistaken and mine is an exception, does not have a CES dash light? - had to ask :confused:

Third one from the right looks a bit dark, but that could just be the lighting on the photo. Have you run any injector cleaner through and changed the fuel filter? Also, you can check for a single cylinder problem by pulling one plug wire at a time (old mechanic's trick that has actually made its way into the FSM). If one doesn't change the idle as much as the others, there's something wrong with that cylinder (plug, wire, injector, valve, rings,...). New injectors will probably help, but may not necessarily be the cause. You could also have the injectors cleaned (I don't know what shops charge these days, but it should be considerably less than new ones) and they can also test the injectors (rate and pattern).

Slick, I'm fairly certain you know blue isn't fuel. Have you replaced your PCV valve? What did the old spark plugs look like (color of deposits)? Maybe that weak cylinder is worse than you think.

Except these are rebuilds (note the $10 core each). Saw some for $35 each, which is $210 for 6 (figured I'd save someone the trouble of opening their calc). Don't ask me where, because personally, as long as I have the cash to spend, I'd go with new, so I didn't bother bookmarking.

I'd suggest JB Weld for small holes, up to quarter sized or so. You could probably do larger areas, but might need some reinforcement (rat wire as rebar?). It sets up hard as steel and will not rust.

What about "co2: @15mph allow: 15.03 blew 0.06 @25mph allow 15.10 blew 0.02"? High CO2 is good, low is bad and an indication of poor combustion. Your emissions check may be like ours in that it doesn't pass/fail on this reading, but reports it anyways. The high HC pretty much confirms poor combustion. Since this was at low rpms it could be clogged injectors or weak spark - maybe one of them new plugs ain't gapped right (did you bang #6 around?) You could buy a can of that stuff that guarantees passing the test, but I'm sure you'll want to get it fixed sooner or later.

I believe the water pump is also different. 4WD has extra long tabs, IIRC. ... and cost twice as much.

Looks like this.

You mean those things that extract? Now what in the world would you call something like that? Hmm, maybe .... naw that would be too obvious ... oh, what the heck ... "extractor". Or since they are supposed to make it easy to get things out they could also be called "easy-outs". But "thingie bobbers"? Thought they were for fishin'.

I tow a 17' bass boat with my '92 (manual trans). The only problem I had was with stopping especially after going to 31" tires, but upgrading the pads fixed that. With the larger tire, I also noticed I don't pull hills in 5th as often, but I really shouldn't be going that fast on the roads I tow on anyway. As for plowing, it should work well. I've thought about getting one myself (when I find one at the right price).

except, and I wouldn't mentioned this except that it could cause some grief should someone attempt to purchase the part.... The sensor in the distributor is called the cam position sensor. Some Nissan engines do have a crank position sensor, but, as far as I know, not Pathfinders through '95 (perhaps later). Engines with this sensor have it located on the rear left side of the engine. It picks up the rotation of the fly wheel and is used only for diagnostic purposes.

If the slide pins or pistons on the calipers do not operate freely (start to stick) the pads will not retract fully after applying the brakes. The grease on the pins tends to dry out over time.

Define close. I'm in La Plata, so I'd say not. The closest I lived to Hagerstown was growing up in Kensington. I've been to Hagerstown a number of times, though the last time was nearly 10 years ago for a Gallagher performance. It's a nice area though.

98silverpathy, Where in MD are you?

Now you are sounding like a lawyer, or worse, a politician. "... no good reason" / "all the time" leave it to an offroader to give himself more than one way out. -bounce- sly

Great going! So, what's next? What? You say you want to drive it for a while?

Are you collecting them or have you been trading up?

IIRC, XE had a two post steering wheel and LE / SE had four posts (and I don't believe this was an option on the XE). - Then again, what does it matter?

Not sure about '95, but most models had options that could bring it close to the next sub-model. So, my theory is the dealer said, "it's an XE with all the important stuff of an LE, so we're selling (and titling) it as the one that we can charge more for." - It could happen. You may be able to verify which one it was manufactured as by the VIN.

Try cleaning cam shaft position sensor (under the rotor). Otherwise, maybe a bad plug or wire.