Animal

If you've never rebuilt an engine before, you should also get someone with experience to inspect all the parts (block, crank, cams, etc.) for wear.

I don't have a lot of experience with off-road tires, but I use my Pathy for towing/launching a boat in the summer (slippery ramps) and hunting in the fall/winter(mud and snow). After sliding off a farm road and having to be pulled from the mud one winter, I bought a set of Yokohama Geo AT II+. Since, I have rarely used 4wd - the tires alone made all the difference. I hear the Bridgestone Revos are even better and quieter on the road. I may go with them when I need to replace the Yokos.

OK, I understand the situation now. Idle w/ A/C in the heat is already hard enough. I doubt an HO alt would have helped since you weren't even using nearly the potential of the 40 amper.

Looks to me to be around 4600. Or are we looking at the same graph?

I'm really late with this, but shouldn't the fans start up after the engine is running (except for a hot start)? And wouldn't it be better to have the fans shut off if the engine isn't running (to save the drain on the battery)? I'm planning on eventually doing the e-fan (fan clutch is going anyways) and just curious if there is any logic in doing otherwise.

Yep, at 5252 considering torque = horsepower * 5252 / rpm. I'm not sure how one can get anything different. P.S.: Here's one of the most straight forward explanations of the topic I've found.

They seem to come to life starting around 3000 (maybe 2800?), below that the torque seem too low. But that's just my observation - seat feeling. I saw some dyno graphs once; I should have paid more attention.

Honestly? By never taking it to a dealer again. If you can find a good mechanic, that may be an option. I was just commenting to my wife today about the problems we had when I was too busy to maintain our own vehicles and how few (as in 0) problems we have had both on my '92 Pathy and her '00 Xterra since I made the time to do everything myself. Now for your problem Did you check the fluid level? It may have been over filled. If not, the leak may be in the transmission line or maybe some blockage in the cooler causing it to overheat. I don't have autos and only do minor work on them for friends and neighbors, but I have seen them spew fluid from overheating.

Error = 188.5 / 2304.36 = 8.18% This should apply to both speed and mileage, though speedometers also have a % of error (typically non-linear). Then again, not all tires of the "same size" are the same size. Also, the effective circumference is the distance from the pavement to the center of the axle multiplied by 2 multiplied by pi. This varies by tire size, manufacturer and model as well as air pressure. It's easier to find a friendly cop.

What is the wattage of the inverter? You would probably be better off running a fused line (I'd use at least #6) off the battery. The other low current stuff could be tapped of the factory lighter circuit.

1. T-One connector - $22 at Hitches For Less. 2. I have 5 located between the battery and fuse box on passenger side wheel well (moved the fuses back an inch or so). 4. For headlights, I tapped off the original headlight fuses (a bit tricky to do). Fogs, I ran wires and fuse holder to unused position in exiting fuse box. Stereo used adapter harness. 5. What use is this for? 6. Like mz said. The wires in the tail lights may not be heavy enough.

Swimmer, you are parting it out because you need a new radiator and to bang a few dents out (until you can afford an ARB Bull bumper)? Or is it worse than I think? Pic's would sure help. Oops, missed the tranny comment. ... and replace / rebuild tranny ...

A leak down test can be done without the belt. The valves must be closed to do this, but that can easily be done by turning the cam (if the cover is removed) or better by loosening the rocker arms (as is recommended in the FSM as part of the belt replacement). If it were me (and I couldn't do the work myself) I'd find a shop that knows more about engines than what they are able to read in a book (probably colored in the pictures as well). - my 2 cents

Take a hammer to the frame, particularly above the rear axle to check for the dreaded frame rust. Even if it is starting rust, you can box it in as long as there is good metal to weld to. Is it auto or manual? (just curious) Without seeing it, I'd say it is worth the $500 in parts alone.

So, when you bled the brakes, did you get fluid from the slave cylinder? You may need to start by simulating a bench bleed of the master cylinder. You can do this by cracking the fitting at the mc, have some one press the pedal, tighten the fitting, lift the pedal - repeat until there is no foam in the fluid. Next move to the clutch damper and bleed it until all you get is clean fluid with no bubbles. Finally, do the same to at the slave cylinder. If you skipped bleeding the damper, that may be your problem. If you can't get a good stream of fluid, it's probably the mc. If the pedal is hard while bleeding, it's probably the mc or the pedal/linkage; try disconnecting the mc link, the pedal should swing freely. Another possibility is that when you flipped it, some little particle may have broken loose and got in the line. This could then have gotten lofged in the master cylinder, damper or slave cylinder and is blocking the flow. Bleeding the system as described above should either clear it or at least give you an idea where the blockage is.

... and bleed the system - may have gotten some air in the line

Glad to hear you got it done and are back in business. I didn't mean to sound like I was taking sides though I'm not sure which issue you were referring to. If it was the studs, while I agree it was a flaw, Nissan did make an effort to correct the problem well beyond the warranty period, more than most manufatures have done for anything not safety related - that was my only point. On the key issue, some have had problems, some have not and I was attempting to find out why. No offense meant on either subject and I don't play matching wits. I do find it a bit disturbing that it is hard to have discussions unless everyone agrees - perhaps this is a sign of the times, just look at politics.

Well, there was a recall on the exhast studs, but you had to have the problem and get it to the dealer with under 100K miles - rules most of us out. It would be nice to have a lifetime warranty, but you really don't expect that, right? Yes, that was a design flaw and Nissan, arguably did more than they had to. A few points on the key topic, in light of dicscussion (not even debate) are: 1. judging from the damage, the keys aren't that soft and actually wouldn't have caused as much damage had they been softer. 2. I still do not believe the keys are intended to take any torque, but we'd need to speak to a Nissan engineer to find out what they had in mind, why a woodruff, etc. 3. For all the revolutions the pully to crank force is only substantial when the rpms are changing (very minor to drive the belts at steady rpms). 4. I couldn't find the torque spec in the FSM, but Haynes says it's a bit under 100 ft/lbs. With that much force, assuming the pulleys and the crank are still matched and no rust or dirt to keep the parts from seating, it should be nearly as good as a weld. Think of the old MGBs with spinner hubs; same basic principle, but with considerable more driving torque considereing the application and, for the most part, no slipage. 5. I truely wish you the best on your project, since all of the above, right or wrong, means squat to you now. BTW - I still have to do my exhaust studs. I've put it off in order to help others with more major work, but I'll get to it soon enough.

Nothing personal intended, though I do my own work and will admit I've screwed up before. So, if it isn't lack of torque on the bolt, it is something else, maybe an engineering flaw (perhaps the pulley and harmonic balancer are only good for one use), but I don't beleive the keys are the cause.

This problem is not that uncommon, but I don't believe the woodruff key is the cause. I'm sure I will be corrected if I am mistaken, but these keys are meant to align, not drive the parts. So, even if the keys somehow went bad after they were installed, the pulleys shouldn't have slipped. With the miles on the vehicles I've read having this problem I'd guess the T-belts been replace at least once, if not 3 times. I'm theorizing that when the pulleys were reinstalled, the bolt was not properly torqued - without looking in the FSM, I recall it's around 2.5 x stupid. I doubt anyone would admit to this, so I don't expect anyone to own up, just something to think about next time.

Hi kingtux, where in MD are you located. There are a few of us around that, depending on where you are, might be able to give you a hand. Heads are not hard to do, but it is a little time consuming. Valves I'd leave for a machine shop or those who have more time and a bit more equipment than I do. There is also a slight possiblity that a valve has punch through the top of a piston, in which case, I would find a replacement engine if the rest of the Pathy is in good shape.

'94 FSM says ATF for T-Case as well.

Front and rear are different lengths. The mounts are also different, IIRC.

Magna Flow cat for $82 at Summit. The other part is called the connecting pipe (Bosal part #751-879, accordong to their site). You'll also need new gaskets.

Particularly the rear link bushings.