Animal

I'm not sure a Centerforce DF would be good for off roading or, as in my case towing. The other Centerforces or Excedy should work well. Which, depends on how much you want to spend. I suggest getting a complete kit as well as have the flywheel turned. I don't believe one for the 300zx will fit (different flywheel from what I've found) and even if it did, it's designed for a vehicle half as heavy.

Most likely it is the flexible brake line connected to the caliper. Look for wet cracks.

Perhaps you did not contribute anything, but you explained a lot.

Didn't consider vacuum controlled autos, but I try not to think of GM products, though I just spent 3 hours driving around for a ported vacuum switch for a Monte Carlo. Now that I think of it, there wasn't any vacuum to the trans on that one - which is probably the only nice thing I can think of on the car. Happy New Year! -alcohol- -alcohol- -alcohol- -alcohol-

In reply to #1, Pathfinders sit a bit higher in the rear. I read somewhere (probably on 88's site) the rear suspension has more travel and both front and rear are set for mid travel (or something like that), but another reason the rear sits higher is to accomadate cargo loads. It's normal. When you check side to side, make certain you are on level ground.

Why would anyone be thinking that!? As for Cottmans, I'd go somewhere else. I've heard some less than flattering stories from friends who had less than good experiences with them. As for your parents' responsibity, food, clothing and shelter up to 16 (18 in some states). Anything beyond that is either guilt or love. You parents sound like the latter, your neighbors ... well you know them better than I do.

I've read an article or two about the evils of cross drilled, but have yet to find anyone outside of the racing circuit who has cracked a rotor. In either case, slotted is supposed to be the way to go, though they are harder to fined without also cross drilled.

You should get the alingment shop to fix it. This can be done by adjusting the tie rod ends *properly* as well as recentering the steering wheel. I'd let them decide and wouldn't pay them extra for what they should have done from the start.

With all that, you may as well pull the engine and put it on a stand. Your back will thank you. And, you can put headers on while you are at it.

ATF in the exhaust? Don't believe I have ever seen that, nor can I figure out how, but I would think it would burn blue to black, not white? :confused: Regarding fuel smell on cold weather starts, thats quite normal. Even though FI don't have a choke, the system runs a bit rich until the engine begins to warm up. Head gaskets are a 5 on the 1-10 scale, IMO. If the head is warped, it should be milled or replaced to prevent the same thing from happening again. To install, it is best, though not necessarily required, to replace the head bolts (I personally haven't as a matter of practice). Though I've heard reused bolts should be torqued less than new ones (theory is used are prestressed) I don't believe it is that critical as long as the sequence is followed and all the bolts are torqued the same. Oh yeah, did I mention you'd also need a manual and torque wrench.

Smoke: White = steam Blue = oil Black = fuel Steam is a product of combustion. It condenses when it hits cold air. Excessive steam could be antifreeze in the cylinders (an indication of a bad head gasket or worse), but the coolant level will also drop at a noticeable rate.

Done so much more tactfully than what I ended up not posting.

Or too much -alcohol- -alcohol- -alcohol- -alcohol- -alcohol- -alcohol- 'tis the season, ya know.

It really comes down to what look you are after. I think if you are going with the chrome wheels it would look better with chrome bumpers. Mine are black steel. They don't require nearly as much maintenance and match my black ARB bumper as well as the black paint on the truck - a color scheme I worked up (or rather fell in to).

You are planning to do nose dives with a stock bumper? I guess it's nothing a 5 gallon bucket of bondo won't cover.

Good. We'll know who to ask when we forget.

My '92 didn't come with a manual (one of the problems buying used), but Slick was kind enough to relay this information to me, which is where I got the 25MPH. If your '94 says 45 and the '96 says 50, I am wondering what the difference is. On the first shift from 2H to 4H, the stress is mostly in the auto hubs. Were these redesigned over the years 92-94-96? After having mine apart years ago, I am amazed that they work as well as they do - and do take a considerable amount of abuse. Also, it has been stated here or somewhere else that leaving the auto hubs engaged in 2H is hard on the parts. I do not believe that it is particularly so, but it will measurably reduce mileage and performance (things few of us are willing to throw away). So there is some motivation to back up a few feet after going back to 2H.

Don't rear disc models use drums for the e-brake? That's based on parts break down not first hand experience.

RTFB To quote the damn manual (a few pages past MZ's reference): This is from the '96 owners manual (manual transmission). I believe earlier models may state 25 MPH instead of 50 MPH. The trick is driving straight. Even if you stop, the auto hubs do not automatically engage, not until the half shafts start to turn (somewhere around 1 or 2 revolution, IIRC). So you are always moving when the the vehicle goes from 2H to 4H, even if you do stop to shift. If you are stuck in 2H, as I was once, shifting to 4H will likely cause a clunk since the axle part of the hub is spinning and the wheel part is stationary. edit: for automatics replace "Depress the clutch pedal" with "Move the selector lever to the “N” position."

Mine works, once in a while one clunk, but that's also happened from a stop (when I was stuck). Best I can figure is that clunking is the auto hubs when the wheel and axle speeds don't match, grinding is probably from shifting too slow; there's a spline clutch in the transfer box that appear to operate momentarily during shifts from 2H to 4H.

Two things I can think of: 1. where does the manual say to "popped it into neutral" 2. what type of surface are you on when you do this? It should be one which allows some tire slip. Of course your hubs could also need servicing.

If you get tires and wheels from Summit, they will mount them. It was either free or cheap, like $5, IIRC.

Yep, I lost count of the times the wife said the Pathy wouldn't start, so I'd go move the floor mat from under the clutch pedal - fixed another one! Wouldn't it be nice if all life's problems were so simple. Bob, I'd pull the other torsion bar to see if it was next.

For an illustrated description, see Slick's post here.