Rick13

I live in the greater Denver area running lifted now for 4 years and I don't run with manual hubs. In that time I have replaced 1 CV axle for a torn boot and that was about 6 months ago. I never tell someone to NOT get the manual locking hubs, but want people to know that there may be other factors that contribute to premature failure (weather variations, driving conditions, types of trails run...) Just my not trying to sway you one way or another...

I ran those passes twice last summer. Yeah, that's right, twice. That's because it's actually that awesome of an area to run. Nice pics, great view from the top of California Pass down to your rig - that was a nice shot.

Sorry, works killing me right now, so I'm not on here much at all. Well, I ran with the 2" AC coils and 4" SFD up front and added gasket coils spacers to the 2" AC coils out back for over 6 months. It looked a little goofy, but ran fine. Then I purchased some 4" WJ coils from TeraFlex (FL - 16.25, SR - 190 lb/in) and it only netted me about 5.5" of lift out back...so I still had reverse rake. It road a little goofy out back and squatted with a full camping load/kiddo's. I actually couldn't stand them, but I bet they are perfect for a person who only installed the 4" SFD without the 2" coils lift up front. Then I went with 6.5" WJ coils from Iron Rocks (FL - 18.625, SR - 200 lb/in). These are stout springs. I cut them to fit the upper perch only - leaving as much spring as possible (which is NOT how I cut the 4" TeraFlex springs...may have cut a little too much). I love how it wheels, but I gained a VERY slight driveline vibration and kicked my rear axle quite a bit to the driver's side. So then purchased the PHB drop bracket from Andrew at Krypton in an attempt to re-center my axle (and thought I'd reduce my vibration a little). Well, my axle is now dead straight, but I actually gained about 1/2" of height out back and increased my driveline vibration. I am going to cut the springs a bit more in the next couple weeks and can report back. All-in-all, the Iron Rocks springs are absolute quality. The ride is nice, it doesn't squat when fully loaded, and they flex like no other spring I've seen out back. It also didn't hurt that their customer service was very good (ask for Josh). Even with the driveline issue I'm currently dealing with, I would absolutely buy their product again and only have to figure out just how much to cut to make the perfect fit. Again, I'll report back in the next 2 weeks once I cut and reinstall. Does that help? Here is the current rake prior to the PHB bracket...I'm actually a bit higher than this right now. BUT AGAIN, I will soon reduce and report back:

I'd take Ophir Pass (from 550 near Silverton) in to Telluride and then Imogine Pass over to Ouray. Unbelievable views. Imogene might give you some fun challenges if you're running stock, but I think it is totally doable. Corkscrew Gulch up to the higher passes (like Thunderbolt said) would be really good for a stock rig and the views are unbeatable. I'd make sure you head up to Engineer Pass (to the overlook) and then you can turn back and explore Animas Forks (old mining town). Yankee Boy Basin out of Ouray is also a great trail for stock rigs (a little challenge at the end but nothing to break you). Ophir:

Here's one of me entering Grizzly Lake trail: Thunderbolt Video

Hate it. Looks horrible. Seriously though, looks super mean.

But from the GA's photo, those rims are the tri-spoke alloys (16x7 with about 4.75" backspacing). Those are what I ran for over 3 years with 31's and never had rubbing issues. Just trying to save the guy some $$$.

Yeah, the only reason I didn't go 265/75/16 when I got my 2" lift is because they hit the strut. My 265/70/16 (measured 30.7" brand new) and sat nicely below the lower coil seat of the struts (no spacer needed).

Yeah, absolutely beautiful country. We weren't mentally prepared for the immediate rock ledge to get up on to Grizzly Lake trail. It actually wasn't too hard with the line we both chose, but after about 40 yards you make a hard right on to more granite scraggy rock/boulders and loose dirt/rocks. 33's are probably the minimum to even consider the first few hundred yards of that trail. In fact, we decided not to run the whole thing because a huge group was exiting the trail telling us how "crappy" the entire trail was to run (meaning that it was all work and no fun to run to the end). Met up with a Jeeper on 35's who said he ran it and never remembered it being such a pain in the arse to get through. We were kind of glad we didn't continue past the first long hill climb after the first 2 main obstacles. One of us would have broken something. I've never been on Grizzly before this but I've been up many 5-6 rated trails in Colorado, and this was right in there somewhere - rock ledges, loose boulder field (1-2ft in diameter), steep climb, flex out/dugout holes everywhere. Slider checks were in order several times... Just let us know if you ever head up this way Andrew. You'd be more than welcome.

Thanks guys, it was a fun trip. I have photos but they are mostly of my youngest son. I do have about 3 videos worth watching that are uploading right now: 1 - Me getting way too tippy on a switchback on Mt Antero (2 wheel teeter-totter/pucker action) 2 - Thunderbolt going up the entrance to Grizzly Lake (a 6 rated obstacle) that almost looks impossible when approaching it 3 - Thunderbolt going down the same entrance Thunderbolt actually took a real camera (I just used my phone) and might have better photos. I know he took video of me entering Grizzly Lake so I'll try to see if I can get that here (or at least the link).

Thunderbolt and I went camping/wheeling over near Buena Vista, CO (actually closer to St Elmo) and ran a handful of trails (Colorado Trail Ratings included). I don't think either of us wanted to post up a full trail report, so here is a quick synopsis for our NPORA R50 folks... Mt Antero (3-4): http://vimeo.com/27871530 Grizzly Lake (5-6): Thunderbolt entrance to trail: http://vimeo.com/27871391 Thunderbolt exit from trail: http://vimeo.com/27871707 Rick entering trail (dash cam): http://vimeo.com/27871622 Mary Murphy Mine off of Hancock Pass (3-4): Mt Princeton (2-3):

Maybe you could split the difference and order the KYB (not from AC, but find a deal some where on-line/free shipping) and wait on the rear shocks (those are easy to replace and can be found fairly cheap also). The reason I recommend the strut change is because you are probably going to pay a mechanic to disassemble/reassemble the stut with the new front AC springs, so you might want to change out the strut and the mount/bearings while he's in there. Also, I'd be careful of the 32" tires and make sure they will clear the strut. Otherwise you may be looking at increased cost for spacers (or rims with less backspace). If I had to do my 2" lift over I would have sprung for the spacers and gotten the 32's. Just saying... That's awesome.

How bad is the leak? Like just a little seeping or is it leaving everything covered in black/sticky mess?

NOT trying to be a jerk, totally understood your post, but wanted to make sure that we didn't confuse anyone. The lower the number in backspacing the further the rim will be from the vehicle allowing for increased distance from the strut, but you may run in to other rubbing issues with the increased arc. Again, sorry MAXEDpath, I know "tone" can't be read through forums and didn't want to sound like an a$$. Here's one of the sites I referenced when I was researching rims: R&S Racing - Wheel Info if that helps any one.

Search in the Garage/How To area of the forum...I've seen one there before.

I did about 3 months of research and decided I wanted my dash mounted (so I bought this CB specifically for it's dimensions): Antenna is 2' FireStik that is on a hood channel mount - not the best location, but it works great for my purposes. Generally, antennas work best up high surrounded by a flat surface (like smack in the center of your roof).

If you have 1.75" over stock height, then 31" equivalent tires should work (and still clear the strut). I ran 265/70/16 (30.7") BFG AT's with a 2" AC lift for 2.5 years with the stock rims then "upgraded" to a less backspace rim to widen the stance. I'm guessing you can find a tire size with a 17" rim that is close to this. I experienced only slight rubbing while backing up at full driver's lock. I still have pic's up of this setup on my profile page under "About Me" if you want to look. If I did this lift over again, I would have sprung (pun totally intended) for some spacers for the front or new rims all-round and gotten some 32's. I think there are a couple threads that go in to pretty good detail on this, but I understand not always getting the straight scoop on a topic after reading 14 pages of posts on something... Oh yeah, my favorite multiuse tire is the Yokohama AT/S. They are wet/dry street compliant, decent rolling resistance, quiet, and I've personally seem them wheeled all over the Rockies and Moab.

I drove Thunderbolts for a week without either front or rear sway/stabilizer bars with a (2" front coil lift + 4" SFD and 6" custom rear coils) and I really enjoyed the roll/floating experience...especially over speed bumps/curbs. I tended to take turns a bit slower because of this, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I think if I had to do some emergency avoidance maneuvers that I might have different feelings. I've been driving with the rear sway bar removed for about 2.5 years now...

I think this is a good thread, don't remember seeing this topic (and I've lurked here for years now). I've had a GSP CV Axle (from Advance Auto for about $50 with online discount code) in for quite some time now. I drive "spirited" and wheel quite hard on occassion. I've yet to have a problem (probably just jinxed myself). Anyway, here is a side-by-side pic: The new one (on the left of course) actually seemed pretty beefy. I'd like to know other brands (new) that have worked well for people.

PHB drop bracket is next on my list. Steel has been purchased, just need to measure, cut, and have my friend help weld. After the drop bracket, front/mid skid combination is next on the list - can't tell you how close I've been to my transfer case the last few months... Please post up results of your skid (or PM if you don't want it public). I'm taking some measurements later this month and will be buying some steel soon afterward.

So, I wanted a bit more lift/rake, so I ordered up a pair of 6.5" WJ rear lift coils from Iron Rocks Off Road. Josh at Iron Rocks was really good to deal with and their order processing/shipping went quickly (less than a week). I took an angle grinder to the upper pig tails and installed (even with coil compressor, removing the bumpstops and lower perch adapter, it took for freaking ever to get them situated). Overall, I really like how it looks. It rides a bit more stiff out back than the TeraFlex coils, but there was almost zero squatting when I loaded it with 250 lbs, and it flexes/compresses quite well on the trail. Some obligatory flex/compression photos: I am dire need of a PHB drop bracket now, but I'm working on that in August. Notice the KR Fab sticker Andrew?

Once again, sorry, haven't been reading posts lately... If you haven't found it yet, adapter is listed at the bottom of the SFD ordering page.

Sorry, haven't spent much time here in a while... The strut spacers are from NX4 (unless someone else is making them). Yeah, the WJ are a bit cheaper (depending on the supplier/lift) than the AC coils. That might work well with a 2" coil and 1" spacer lift up front. But I'd remember that this much lift will put your CV's at an even more increased angle - may not be an issue, but always something I keep in mind.

Yeah, that's exactly what sold me...when my work friends (some of who have been "jeeping" for 30 years) said the exact same thing. Want me to take a picture of the battery in place? I remember when I picked it up from Advance Auto the guy warned me that it wouldn't fit because I wouldn't be able to properly secure it. I think he said it was shorter that a stock/typical battery. I took it home and test fit it - it looked OK and didn't budge. Then I hooked up the cables. That was quite a while ago and it seems to be doing alright.

I believe the Red Top is best as just a starting battery and the Yellow Top allows for some moderate deep cycling. I wanted a little of both. Most of my friends who run Jeeps with winches, and only have one battery, run the Yellow Tops. I think a dual battery setup is ideal, but these guys don't seem to be bothered by it and several swear by the Yellow Top.