OR99.5Speed

Pezzy, it makes me feel beter that your remote is doing the same thing, I tend to overlook little battery type solutions and tend to think the worst. Can I just get a CR2025 battery anywhere? Also, were my locks frozen? They could have been I guess, but how come the inside switch worked on all of them but the key outside didn't?

For the past month pretty much, when I get out of the car and press the lock button there is a 50% chance it will lock and a 50% chance it will ignore me. The unlock function always works though! I can't figure it out for the life of me! Now the lock button is working less and less, and the unlock is now acting up too. Today was my day to drive from Bloomington to Atlanta for Christmas break. I'm all excited to take the trip and go home, and I actually am hoping nothing goes wrong like a dead battery, etc. So imagine my delight when I get to my car in the stadium parking lot, push the unlock button twice like always, and nothing happens. No hazards flashing, no unlockage. Okay, no biggie, I'll just stick the key in the door and twist it manually. WTF!!! Nothing happens, the key won't move right or left when it is stuck in the hole. So I move to the passenger side to try it, and its the same deal. Nothing. I know the locks weren't frozen because it was 45 degrees outside. THANK GOD I have the rear hatch window, so I stick the key in to open the hatch glass and it works. I climb into the cargo area through the window, get my cloth seats dirty and the dashboard muddy. I hit my unlock button on the driver's door and it works fine. WTF??? Neither of my key fobs worked. But later today my main fob worked fine, locking and unlocking. Why is it doing this? I'm gonna go get new batteries for the fobs and see if that works.

Try replacing the battery on the second remote. The PO of my truck must have lost the original Nissan remotes, as now I have 2 Infiniti remotes from a QX4. At least the bottom half-moon ring is silver instead of plastic, waaay more BLINGAGE! haha...

So which Honda Accord filter works? I wonder if this works in my brothers 2001 VQ30DE Maxima? Good job Flyer! I know you have the VQ35DE, surely they can't be the same for the VG33E? Do you have a part number or model year and engine Accord filter I should look out for? When I had a 4.0L Jeep we used the Mustang 5.0 filters, they were twice as big! And the 4.0 already took 6 quarts with the stock filter!

Def. look at the manufacturer's site. My 255/70/16 rubs in reverse at full steering lock.

I voted Alpine because I will have one in the near future. Eclipse is a very well respected brand. Sony anything sucks...I'm sorry, I just don't see why they still have such a good reputation. I really miss the Sirius satellite radio I had in my old ZJ with a Kenwood HU. I find it unbearable now to listen to FM.

Haha, Slick, I think I am getting a little cocky about it. lol. I'm a performance-type driver, taking the MKIV GTI out to Road Atlanta and running around in the old E30 on the Montana roads. This "snow" now has turned into rain! We had fresh powder on the ground this morning but the salt truck came and spoiled the fun! I can't believe I'm saying that too! Funny thing is, I was having trouble walking in the slush this morning on the way to class; all of the Yankees were flying by my cautious amble! Oh well... And since my ex-GF totalled my 1998 4Runner, I only can have liability on the Pathy...it makes me a better driver anyways.

Great idea! I did change a few things in your mostly correct entry. The Pathfinder was freshened in 1999 as a 1999.5 model. 2001 brought the 240 hp engine. I may get in there again and add a few R50 things...Good Job!

Not to hijack this thread, but does it hurt the tranny or anything during this first mile? I don't remember what weight the shop put in it, but it was a summer weight in southern Georgia, so now I feel like I'm gonna snap the shifter in half!

I ordered my Philips Vision Plus bulbs from www.powerbulbs.co.uk. in May. I have zero complaints and highly recommend Powerbulbs. Surprisingly quick shipping over from the UK, too. I also like my Philips, but kinda have a bit of buyer's remorse for not buying the OSRAM Silverstars. The Osrams are a better bulb than the Philips, but both are at the top of the class and are rated very well. If I were you I would buy the Osram but you won't go wrong with the Philips either. BTW: My Philips are almost a year old and doing well. but the PIAAs in the fogs burned out after not even six months! :furious:

Damn, this thread has me all over it. Hmmm...when I bought my Pathy, I purchased Philips Vision Plus headlamp bulbs. Those look great in the headlamps and have been a good choice. If I were to do it again, other than projectors/HIDs I would have put the OSRAM Silverstars in. However, the Philips are just fine and look pretty stock. If I didn't know they were aftermarket I wouldn't think anything of it. Now, the same time I bought the Philips I bought the PIAA Ion Crystal lights, the same as Dan had. I installed them June 2005. The light is super cool looking...it looks yellowish green from far away, but if you kneel down in front of the light its even more green. We don't get much fog, and I would say the factory fogs are a purely cosmetic item regardless. I was quite disappointed at the longevity, as the bulbs burned out last month, ironically a day apart. Guess the last one felt really lonely, I don't know. I did get the PIAAs for $50 a pair at LTB Motorsport somewhere in Florida. It was a good deal at the time, but definitely not being that they don't last. Now I am looking for a better bulb. I kinda found the yellowish hue distracting at night, with the white headlights and yellow fogs, the beam pattern was weird. You could use Lamin-X over the fogs. I have only heard of this, but it does give off that Lexus yellow look.

Hmm...I get a clicking noise too in the Bose. It happens with a fairly new CD, mostly burned ones. The clicking is more pronounced in the later tracks than the first several. I will pay more attention to the matter. Circuit City also told me that if I get a new HU I will need to get new speakers as well. Being the no-income student with good taste, I am now living with the Bose setup but also have a 10" Kicker Comp sub (cheapo $80) with an Alpine V12 amp, forgot the wattage. It is connected to the factory stuff using a rear line-out, basically it is wired to the rear speakers. Obviously, a sub/amp combo wired to a factory HU will sound less controlled than one wired to an aftermarket HU would, but the sub takes over the low notes that the speakers have trouble with. Using the "Audio" button, my BASS is -5, TREBLE is +3, and the FADE is +2. This makes the sub less pronounced, letting the door speakers focus on the high notes instead of struggleing and using too much wattage on the lows. It sounds pretty good too; I have a spare Kicker comp that I will probably use. We are going to build a new box out of MDF and bridge the Alpine. I want to paint the box the Titanium color of the bumpers of the truck and stick a 2002 Nissan hamburger on there, maybe with a "Pathfinder" badge. Dreaming, I know... Now back to college finals time... :oops:

Just came back from ripping some donuts in the Assembly Hall parking lot, man was that fun! All I could think is that I was Mika Hakkenen in a Mitsu Evo in the last stage of a Swedish rally...doing 4 wheel drifts and powering out in 4wd, yanking the handbrake, doing donuts in 2wd *which melted the snow!). Only problem is that I was going maybe 40 mph in some areas, and you know how the snow gets bumpy? I think that and the cold weather just completely killed my front struts! The whole front end is squeaking like hell! Oh well, I had a blast!

Haha, yeah Pezzy, my rear end isn't as light as yours... I love laughing at all of the SUVs in the ditch who were driving like maniacs...I saw a Forester slide through a stop sign and T-bone a car. That was pretty crazy! I love the change analogy...I was thinking about it and it got me to coast much more and not hit the brakes. The engine braking really helps too. I'm just really, really amazed at why there are 2wd SUVs on the road...a 2wd Dodge Dakota was sliding BACKWARDS down the road! I couldn't believe it. My friend from SoCal was just standing on the fraternity house front lawn in the snow...he didn't know what to do. He was just amazed at this phenomenon. Also, it seems like hardpack is my favorite to drive on, obviously ice the worst, but I had no idea that slush was so slippery! Good lord, the Pontiacs, etc. have been spinning their front wheels all day! So much fun! I love the snow!

Just got back from going to the repair shop 20 miles out of town, a trip I was forced to make before finals and going back to Atlanta. I did WAAAY better than I thought I would. The tires also did better than I thought they would. We have gotten maybe 3 or 4 inches here, not too bad. When I left the dorm it was still powder, decent traction for what it is. The roads are now covered in that black slush. In two wheel drive, just to see what it would do, the Pathy was really, really sketchy. Not only could it hardly get out of its way from stop, it would lose traction while in motion and start to swing around. I left it in 4wd the whole way except for that experiment. I did hit a patch of ice going downhill at maybe 15 MPH. I corrected my slide like a pro but the Tundra behind me didn't and he did a 720 but somehow didn't hit anything! There are a bunch of rich Long Island, Chicago, etc. girls around here in there BMWs and Benzes. The real fun was seeing them stuck on the side of the road calling Daddy and telling him they need an X5! Ring, Ring..."Daddy! Like, my car is like stuck on the side of the road and it won't go anywhere! Help me! If you loved me you would have gotten me a Cayenne!" ABS works well too. It didn't take me long to practice threshold braking, where its enough to get me slowed down but not enough to slide the tires and activate ABS. I also learned that ABS acts differently in 4wd, letting a bit more lock than 2wd, to allow a little bit of snow to build in front of the front tires. Overall, a great experience. I haven't gotten the chance to rip some donuts yet! -bounce-

The Excited Southerner's first time driving in snow will be in a few hours... I have hardly seen snow living in Atlanta, now in Bloomington, IN he will have 1-3 inches. I don't even have an ice scraper, but I'm nervous and scared. My tires are crappy and 50% tread, not really helping the matter. Plus, I don't know how to drive a manual in the snow. The Pathy slides a lot in the wet, what do I do for snow? Wish me luck!

I also had a MKIV GTI 1.8t Black/Black Leather, sunroof, Monsoon, Luxury, 17" Monte Carlos, Neuspeed Springs,APR chip. Welcome!

You need a new starter. I had a 1996 Jeep ZJ that did this at 125k miles. It started in the winter, as the battery had less charge so the starter has to work harder. Eventually it would not start, so we tapped the starter with crowbar and it worked. It started like this for two weeks until it finally crapped out. I bought a remanufactured one at O'Reillys for like $60 or something like that. Get a new starter pronto or you will need a tow. As mentioned before, check the obvious like white corrosion at the battery terminals and loose connections at the terminals. Thats about it, but I'm 99% sure it's the starter.

Cool fix! This also has happened in my brand new Xterra. The Patfinder's passenger front window is so slow to go up, and the passenger rear window has trouble doing down. I sure hope this fixes it!

Holy Crap you are a god! I've been wanting this, see my avatar? Thanks!

There is however a slight problem that I will have to figure out. There is now a rattling, sounds like a loose heat shield, around 1500 RPM. When I go to wash the car I will listen out for it. It sounds like it's coming from under where the front passenger's footwell. The shop is 30 minutes away, plus the labor was so cheap I really don't see it necessary to hound them on this one. Knowing that they replaced the A/C belt and clutch, I wonder what this is?

YESSS! I just picked up the Pathfinder today! They replaced the clutch with the genuine Nissan kit, resurfaced the flywheel, and got a new A/C belt plus putting the rearview mirror back on for... !!!$408.77!!! (Plus clutch kit cost of $300) Not too bad at all, considering all of the labor involved. The clutch feels so light it's crazy. I know this is how they felt when new. It's truly insane how heavy my old clutch pedal was, 4000x more effort. Feels GREAT!

No, its not really. As I said, I got my 1999.5 with everything but leather for $8,000! With 92k miles on it. All I can tell you is to buy from a private seller. Typically less BS too than the dealers. Buying mine was a bit of a crapshoot with no previous maintenence records, but all has been well for the past 10k miles with only maintenance items replaced. If I were you I would get a BMW, but that just me!

Well, you can choose from a Jim Wolf Technology Pop-charger intake JWT Or a Weapon-R intake Weapon-R Or an HKS intake HKS Not too sure of what the best option is for you, but there are also cams, chips, and high-flow cats and mufflers. Nothing else other than that. You could look into regearing, but don't know anything about that one.

O'Reilly's is awesome. The only auto parts store I go to. We have one in Chattanooga!