Trainman

So I guess we do not get enough snow here in Canada to worry about this The TC (Trans Canada Highway, our national coast to coast piece of asphalt) after a bit of the white stuff.

Thanks for the update as I am due for a service and was wondering if I should go syn on the diffs as well as the trannie/all mode transfer case. Now I know what to use in the diff

So what is the point of then? Or would he hook it up when off-roading?

Ahhh. Hidden turn signals! That truck would not be street legal in BC without flares to cover the width of the wheels, also the mods would require an engineers stamp of approval that they do not significantly alter the trucks safety devices. Would not stop him from driving it till stopped by the police though.

Without the turns signals, no

I use cruise as much as I can (really helps) and have a light foot. The kms I posted does not take into account the 3% difference in the odometer from the larger tires I run, so it is even a bit better (adjusted kms would be 11,300). Because I use my truck for work, I keep pretty good records (got to keep Revenue Canada happy) so have a pretty good idea on fuel use.

So, for the last almost 11,000 km I have been using premium fuel (91 octane) in the Pathfinder even though it is only "recommended", not required. I have noted the following: I have had a "battle" with the Service Engine Soon Light (SESL) or check engine light. I could not get more than 2-3,000 km without it coming on, always for either a valve timing and/or a idle speed issue. The light went out 400 km after I switched to the premium fuel and has not been on since. I have even tried to provoke the SESL without any luck Performance is better, notably on hills (and hills would be a trigger for the SESL too). Less need for gearing down as on regular gas. Fuel consumption: strange here, at lower speed highways (90-100 kph limits) there is no change but at higher speed limits (110) fuel economy has increased and is the same as the lower speed. Before, there was a noticeable drop in economy at speeds over 100 kph. Looking at the spreadsheet, you can not tell what speed highway was being driven (but you can still tell the off-road stuff). Lots of MPG in the 24-26 range (imperial) The facts: Km driven: 10,980 (includes all types: highway, urban, off-road) Liters used: 1,394.2 I think I will keep at it and see what happens over the entire year, need some winter driving experience in my data set.

I have been running Quaker State 10W-30 for about a year (or roughly 30,000 km) with no issues. I have not noted any change in fuel consumption or power but it does start in about half the time it used to. I may try syn for the trannie and transfer case at its next service but the quoted cost sort of puts me off (over $200 just for the oil?). Will be using a different shop than the last few times, maybe the price will be better

The "accuracy" of the R50 gas gauges is somewhat suspect. It drive my wife nuts when she sees the gauge at the 1/4 mark but I know it will only take about 45l. When the low fuel light comes on, I can barely get 60l into the 79l tank. 1/2 gets me about 30l. Go figure.

You know the rules: :worthless: Well done!

Might be a long list? Especially if a WD type writes it up As I do not own a WD, I can not in good conscious vote. Maybe you could add in they are getting old?

Nice job and it does suit the rest of the wood treatment quite well. I have never been a fan of fake wood (gee, I am a forestry type, so I guess I just like real wood ), I grew up with real wood in some of the English cars my dad seem to get once in awhile. But in your Q, it looks right at home. And how did you do it without making a mess of the airbag? It is well done, nice and clean.

Some on-line resources: Link 1 Link 2 (from Link 1) A Blog Overall, it appears to be a waste of money but read and make your own decision

I run Tundra wheels for my winter rims without any issues: (More a photo of the tires but you get an idea of the wheels)

It was not that bad, the side panels do not need to come off completely. And I never did find a way to get the harness out of the body, I just let it hang out the bottom of the gate when I use it. Wonder how the stock harness is done

Check out this post for details of what will work for the R50 Link Remember, search is your friend

My 245/75R/16 snow tires rub just a wee bit. I doubt that a tire an entire inch taller will fit. But why not try one? My tire shop allows that, they will mount a tire and check out clearances.

Here is a tire calculator you can use to determine the difference between the stock tire and whatever you put on. It would be a start anyway. As long as you do not change your gear ratios, this should be all you need. Tire Calculator

I have heard the rear quarter windows are almost impossible to get out. Somewhere on the forum is a post by someone who was parting out his R50 and he could not get those windows out. So go the tint route as all else have suggested. We got our Sienna done for less than $300 CDN, through the Toyota dealer when we bought the van. They sub'd it out to a local guy. So if you need advise on someone to do it, ask your friendly Nissan dealer who they use.

Me too, not lost mine yet.

Anything special about that? So I can teach my son and daughter how to do it with their Ds's Not saying you are. For the most part, this forum is great that way, we all seem to genuinely want to help without requiring any ego boosting. Some others I am on, some posters get very miffed if they do not get a big thank you. BTW, the thread around this same topic on the train forum I mentioned earlier has been deleted, it just got too out of control so the mod deep six'ed it. Awww, shucks, now you made me blush

Wonder if V6 has an interest in trains? This exact same topic was posted on one of the train forums I frequent. It also got a wide range of answers. I liked this idea best: I am not here to get pats on the back or to show off my superior intellect/knowledge. If what I post is helpful, then great but I do not need the poster to come back and say "Wow trainman what an awesome answer you gave me, all my troubles are gone!" It would be nice to know when the answers are wrong or not helpful (with me that would be most of the time) so I can improve my knowledge but if they do not reply back, then so be it. It used to annoy me but I now know there are better things to worry about.

If I recall right, my mechanic said the book time was 3 hours, so that was going to be max they were going to charge (even if took longer, I am so glad I have a shop I can trust). I suggest you try an independent shop and see what you get.

Check out this post, only 2.7 hours for me: link