Trainman

Another forum I am on, there was a recent topic about propane conversion. Up here in Canada, if you can get a kit, the conversions run from $1,500 - $3,000. It takes a pretty big fuel savings to pay that off. And if the motor is an older one, it will need work done on the valve guide seals (may only be an issue if a GM motor?) as the higher heat generated can make a mess of them.

550 per 60l = 26 mpg (imperial gallons). I can average 24-25 mpg on the highway with my 2002 but it takes patience to learn to drive in a fuel conserving fashion. As to why the lack of diesels in North America? Not sure, may be the quality of the fuel we have (that is now changing though) and market perception. Perception here is diesels are only in 3/4 ton or bigger trucks; they are smelly; they are noisy; they smoke. The XTerra, Pathfinder, 4Runner, FJ Crusier etc are only with gas motors. Very few SUV's have diesel as an option. One that did was the Jeep Liberty but is was canned after only a few years. With the change to better diesel fuel, that may change, lets hope it does.

Here is an article from todays Vancouver Province newspaper, Driving section. Talks about the merits of gas vs diesel: Diesel or gas? It all depends on your plans Ian Harwood The Province Friday, May 18, 2007 Ten years ago, light-truck diesel engines were noisy, smelly, vibrated a lot and were more costly to build than a gasoline engine. Today's diesels are much more advanced, but are they any better than a gasoline engine? It's a question frequently asked, especially in relation to three-quarter and one-ton pickups. To answer fairly, you must understand the positive and negative attributes of each engine and the purpose of the vehicle to be powered. Power/Torque Winner: Split decision Typically, gas engines make more horsepower, while diesels produce more torque. If you are looking for off-the-line acceleration or you use your truck around town, where quick starts are important, and you do not often tow a trailer or haul a load, then you will want a gas engine. By design, gas engines rev faster and are able to reach higher r.p.m. peaks than diesels. However, if towing capacity and brute pulling force are your game, a diesel is for you. The torque advantage of diesels is perfectly suited for pulling heavy loads up steep grades. Fuel Economy Winner: Diesel Diesel fuel has a higher energy density than gasoline. One gallon of diesel contains approximately 147,000 BTUs of energy, while a gallon of gasoline has only 125,000 BTUs. This means it takes more gasoline to equal the power output of diesel, making diesel engines more efficient per gallon of fuel burned. Also, because diesel engines use the more efficient direct fuel-injection method (fuel injected directly into cylinder) compared to the port fuel-injection setup in gas engines, where gas is mixed with incoming air in the intake manifold, the diesel system has little wasted or unburned fuel. Diesels also use about a third as much fuel at idle as gasoline units. Over the life of the truck, this advantage could be significant, especially if you drive many kilometres. Noise/Vibration Winner: Gasoline Despite huge improvements in noise isolation and engine-noise technology in pickup trucks in the past 10 years, diesels are still louder and shake more than gasoline-powered trucks. Cold Weather Winner: Gasoline Anyone who has tried to start a diesel engine on a cold winter morning knows the winner in this category. Diesels don't have spark plugs like gasoline engines do. The fuel is ignited spontaneously once it is injected into the cylinder and is pressurized. When it's cold, the air doesn't get hot enough to ignite the diesel fuel. Conclusion Winner: Both Choosing between a gas and a diesel engine comes down to what you will do with the truck and where you live. If you use your truck as a car, desire quick, quiet acceleration, and rarely haul a heavy load, you may want to consider a gas engine. They run smoother, fuel is easier to find, and they are easier to start in cold weather. However, if you use your truck for towing, want good fuel economy (who doesn't?), and plan on racking up loads of kilometres, diesel is for you. In the end, the leading disappointment with diesels is that the price to add a diesel to a pickup is still quite high versus a more powerful gas engine. But you'll make this back in fuel savings over time. Ian Harwood is the manager of Custom Truck Parts in Port Kells, Surrey. Watch the Truck Guy on Driving Television, on Global TV. truckguy@customtruckpartsinc.com

This will impact the availability of Japanese Terrano's. Full details here: Transport Canada link Better get them while you can

Glad we can help. And your English is just fine. Better spelling than most who claim to speak English as a first language.

Oh this sucks. The second Canadian Pathy to get serious water damage (check out the R50 area for really gruesome details). Good luck.

Thanks Pezzy, all I can go by is the stock alloys but I seem to recall someone else wanting to put 15" wheels on a 2000+ R50. Francois will just need to try them I guess.

Francois, Welcome! Just curios to know, why the desire to switch to 15" wheels? Looking at mine, there is not a lot of room between the caliper and the stock alloy but a thinner steel wheel may fit. I run 245/75 R16 on the stock rims (for summer) with no rubbing. I run my winter tires on Toyota steel rims, and get a bit of rubbing when backing up on right lock. They do have a different off-set and stick out a wee bit further than the stock rims. Summer tires: Winter tries:

Oil and filter are cheap compared to a wreaked motor, why try to prolong the interval? Sound a little like false economy to me. BTW, I use full syn (whatever is on sale at Canadian Tire) and a NAPA Gold filter. Changed every 5,000 km.

How about some armor? Skid plates, sliders?

Stinger Front end protection for your high dollar winch or just helping keep the brush off your front end. Includes 1 – Stinger bar 2” tube 2 – Stinger supports 1.5” tube Price: $44.95 plus shipping

I run the LT245 75 R16 and here is the clearance: And the D and E thing are the load ratings. The higher the load rating, the "tougher" the tire. And also the harsher the ride. So it comes down to compromise. Mine are 10 ply rated, run at 40 psi and the ride is a bit rough. When I am doing a long drive on highway, I will drop the pressure to 35 psi, makes for a much nicer drive.

Wow, 0 MPG, that must suck Scan Gauge has the owners manual posted on their web site, it answers a lot of the questions people have, so give it a look.

True, but then he wouldn't be getting as many hits on his site. That being said, it's been a month and you still haven't figured out whose pictures you're snagging? I will make it easy for PFJ: If you are using any of my photos, you DO NOT have my permission and I wish them removed. Please ask first (probably not an issue as I doubt any of mine are there )

This is the 245 75 R 16 summer tire on my Pathy: Not a lot of room left

I will throw something else into this mix. I run 2 sets of LT 245 75 R16 tires on my 02, regular tires mounted on the stock alloys and studded snowies on Toyota Tundra steel rims. The Toyota rims have a bit more offset than stock and the tires stick past the body (no flares on mine) slightly, so similar to adding spacers. Guess which ones rub? Yup, the snowies do, but only at full lock and when backing up. So like others have said, no need for spacers I would think. May just make it worse

I did a quick search of the Buy and Sell for BC and there are 4 manual Pathys listed for years 2001-2004, as below: 2004: 0 2003: 1 2002: 2 2001: 1 They are out there, just need to look.

No issues here, just had to log in the once when I came on the revised site for the first time. But thanks for the heads up on this.

I see lots of those around here, they are not rare. How many Chilkoot Editions in the States? Now they are rare, they even have numbered plaques inside the truck. Mine is the only 2002 Chilkoot No. 0189

Unlike the WD21, the R50 is a unibody, with the entire body acting as the frame (it has no separate frame) so when major structural work has to be done, it needs to be done right to ensure the integrity of the structure. I would think that rocker panels would qualify as "major" so just make sure they are done well. I have no experience so can not offer any cost ideas.

Yep, no work for me either.

HOLY!!!! Winning bid: US $232.50 and Winning bid: US $154.50

Got my frozen rotor price: $118.40 per rotor plus my choice of shipping costs (note the cost of the rotors has gone up to $138.35 but they are willing to honor the price they quoted me for a day or two): Postage will be $127 for 3-5 day " " " $ 70 " 4-10 day " " " $ 42 " 4-6 weeks So, with "normal" shipping, they work out to $308 US plus whatever Canada Customs will charge me, plus the exchange rate. My guess they will end up around $400 CDN at my door. Or the NAPA rotors for $280 CDN plus taxes and they will be here next day. So NAPA it will be. Stupid border stuff :furious:

Maybe an auto wreckers as well?