Trainman

It is a common issue with the R50 (and other vehicles as well) that if you fill past the first click the SES light will get triggered. Not sure why but probably something to do with the vapour recovery system. So although her reason may be a bit suspect, the practice is sound. I always stop at the first click (unless of course I know it is not filled up) and have never had a problem.

Thanks Pezzy, So it looks like if I pick my spot (high or low) I could miss the reinforcement piece. Should work.

I am looking for a way to mount a trailer wiring plug. With the way the hitch mounts, there is no room under the bumper, so I was thinking of drilling a hole in the bumper to flush mount the plug. But what will I run into as I drill in? Is it all plastic and deformable stuff or is there also a steel beam in there? Any other ideas for mounting (not under the hitch as it will just get ripped right off at the first cross ditch).

Your are awesome! Thanks, looks fine to me! Leafs Rule! Argos Too! (is that enough sucking up ) Now to go check out what it looks like so I can try and figure it out.

Overall I find the forum better but it has its issues, like the sig thing. I do not have a clue what happened but it was the first time I had done a change to my sig since the upgrade; maybe some of the "old" code is not compatible?

Yep, that worked really well Just look what happened to my sig when all I did was change the 100,000 km to 120,000 km (actually all I did was change a 0 to a 2). I can see why Mr. Pickles is a little annoyed.

OK, I will play too (Pezzy, that last one of yours is way too clean

One thing I would do for sure is get the trannie serviced unless you know the service history of the vehicle. Goes for the engine, transfer case and diff oil as well. Also do the air filter and fuel filter. I have had intermittent issues with a cam timing sensor, just enough to set off the SES light.

I have an 02, with the AT. Only "big" issue was the BOSE 6CD changer, it has died. Other than that is has been a good truck. No issues with AT shifting, not as smooth at the Sienna we have but still quite nice. One thing i found when I bought mine (used as well) was the lower rear part of the front fenders (you can see into here when the front doors are open) were filled with sand and not draining water away. Check to make sure the drains are clear or you may run into rust issues later on.

Yep, if you see one just lying around let me know Anyway, the reason I asked was that on another forum, it was posted that cleaning the rad (on a TJ) was tough due to the AC, so was wondering what I was getting myself into on a Pathy.

The big diesel motors in locomotives are usually described as "chugging", so that is what I was thinking of. No idea of what it means in a Pathy motor though.

Got it, there is a lag (about a second) where I can not move the mouse before it shows up. Thanks, and a neat feature for sure.

Thanks, will do. Of course, not having a timing belt I would never have thought to even look there

So I probably need to clean out the fins of the rad and AC coil. I had issues with the fan running excessively last summer and blew out as much of the bugs, dirt and other stuff as could be done without removing the rad. But with summer on its way again I now need to pay the piper and do a proper job. How hard is it? Does the AC need to be purged? Or can the rad be removed independently from the AC rad? The trannie cooler is no big issue, just do not know about the AC. Merci, Tman

Rollover what? Nothing happens for me (Firefox on XP Pro).

Check out this post in the above thread link You may never see the screw again! Soft brass, and it gets chewed up and spat out. How many miles on yours?

Well, it is easy enough to do, so why not? Can not hurt. Other ideas: use cruise as much as possible, I get very good MPG when I use the cc; keep to the speed limit; try to anticipate traffic to reduce the tendency to yo-yo the speed. Why accelerate up to a bunch of slower traffic, then put on the brakes, then speed up again when a nice constant speed will get you there just as well; take any extra stuff not needed for the trip out of the truck; make sure the truck is well maintained (ie fuel and air filter in good shape, tires at proper pressure, good oil). Doing all the above, I can get 24-26 MPG (imperial, or aroumd 22-23 MPG US) on the highways around here.

Saw the reference in a local paper last week, so checked out the web site. I do not know when it was printed but from the news article it sounded quite recent.

E is massive tire, I find even my D's to be pretty heavy and rough. I would try to get a D, even if it means a different tire than the one you want. There must be other brands that would work?

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Glad it worked out OK for you as I know a few who have hit deer and had their cars totaled. But we all know how tough our Pathies are, right?

$40!

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The MAX line is generally were the coolant should be when at full operating temp. When cold (which is the only time you should be taking off a rad cap btw unless you are VERY careful) the coolant should be at the MIN or LOW mark (not sure what a 93 has). If you overfill the system, it will just blow out the excess anyway as 88 pointed out.

At that age, I would do all the fluids, it would be good insurance. I would also do the fuel filter and air cleaner, again just to be sure.