headpeace

cool, that's what I meant was the gears. So the pulley is different also? What about the tensioner?

Has anyone put in the 94-95 cams when changing their timing belt so you could use the longer lasting 90k mile belt? Is this possible? I assume that it is, I'll be changing mine soon and would like to be able to do this.

Way to go Steevo

Suspension lift?

man I have been trying to fix this issue on my wife's PF. From the research I have done it could be air in the lines, I have been trying to bleed the air out of this thing going on 2 nights now. There are some posts over on thenewx.org forum about purging or burping the coolant, might give it a try

Welcome John, where specifically in Arkansas are you?

yep, wish I would have had one, woulda been alot quicker

try a 24 inch breaker bar, thats what I had to do, and had to push it with both feet to get them to break

you could remove the rear sway bar, then you wouldn't need the bushings at all

Thanks TC, I thought it loooked like it was somewhere around 10mm'ish, just wanted to make sure since I know I don't have that size already and will have to buy it.

Anyone know the size wrench needed to drain and refill the rear diff fluid for the R51?

PM'd you

I didn't but, I just went out and banged the starter with a hammer and a long pry bar and what would ya know, it turned over ever so slightly, I guess it is the starter after all. I banged on it some more and with much resistance the damn thing started. Now I'm off to remove the starter, wonder if I can get my money back for the battery from O'reilly?? The stupid starter is lifetime from O'reilly, which will be the third time I've replaced it.......................freakin lifetime warranties

would a starter giving up act that way? My experience has been they do that clicking thing but my experience is by no means exhaustive.

So here's the story, when I left work yesterday it seemed to start a little slow - made a mental note. Stopped to get gas on the way home and it started even slower, I check my on board voltmeter and while running it's about 13.8. Get home and on board volt reads around 12.4 or so not running, check the battery with a real voltmeter and it concurred with the on board reading. Try to start it this morning and it barely turned over enough to start but it did start, left it at home thinking maybe a cell is dead (it is 4 years old) and it's holding volts but the amps are gone and it's not enough to get started. Go and get a new battery this afternoon put it in and turns over maybe twice - no start - and now it won't turn over at all. Yay, I just wasted $100 for a battery I didn't need. So now my thought is the starter wiring and the whole relay mod business. My question is - is this a common symptom of bad starter wiring - the progressively slower starting until nothing at all?? What thoughts do you guys/gals have??

try this, it's what I did and mine stopped doing it. http://www.q45.org/timers.html

when you get locked out without locking the door...

shouldn't you advice the bypass of the radiator "cooler"? That is where the leak occurs mixing the coolant and AT fluid. I think all R51's came stock with AT coolers, just need to bypass the radiator.

it's 114R on a 8" steel rim

They are 33 x 10.5 x 15 BFG AT's. I had 31 x 10.5 x 15 BFG AT's previously that didn't do this at all.

OK, I got these about 4 months ago. Started out at 35 psi and dropped to 30 psi which is where they are now and when I took this pic. I think something is wrong, shouldn't all the tread be contacting the ground at 30 psi on these ?? Uploaded with ImageShack.us Can I take these back and say there is a manufacturer defect? I don't want to run less than 30 if I'm rollin the streets. They all track like this

post your color mix scheme for us, looks good

so the 30's are hidden

Nice work

Wow, you can still legally own a mini-14 in crazy liberal Feinstein country?? Shocking........