Harbinger

Yeah, same here -- *scribbles note on ever-growing to do list* I might pick up a test lamp when I pick up more velcro tomorrow then. Just to make this job slightly less of a PITA. I used to have one but one way or another it got fried Yeah its coming together pretty well - but its still taken WAY longer than I wanted it too. Having my dash all torn apart and with the truck not starting SERIOUSLY affects my snowboarding. All thats left now though is finding the correct trigger wire for the driving lights and puting the dash back together. Outside of getting the Battery properly charged and/or replaced of course. pssd I do like to do wiring though -- if I didn't I never would have started this. The toolbox was VERY functional -- just ugly as hell and it only had one 30A fuse on the main power wire. Not to mention its wiring was strung all over hell and back.

The guy I bought my truck from pointed that out to me too -- which is worrysome -- cause unless he replaced the shocks with the OEM nissan ones it means the same shocks have been on my truck for the past 277,000 miles My truck is in DIRE need of shocks -- crap

I know I know -- the voltometers on the list but may not happen untill I get the pathy a new battery, or at least figure out WTF is going on. I'll see what I can beg/borrow/steal though. I've already found the red wire I speak of -- according to the haynes manual theres two wires for the HL's in the column -- one red and one red/white. Doesn't say anything about hi/low beams though. And I thought our trucks didn't have headlight relays in their stock form?

I've got one -- installed by the previous owner -- I'm more worried about the sheer amount of miles on it than anything!

For those of you with aftermarket lights -- what wire did you use to tie into the high beams? Or maybe someone has a FSM (the manual, not his noodly greatness!) and they could tell me better than the haynes does? *crosses fingers*

If I'm not mistaken won't the lights stay on untill you shut off the switch? If those are like all the other switches I've worked with the light will be on as long as power is flowing to the accesory (sp).

That would make sense I suppose. Todays Progress: Ripped all the extraneous relay/Hi-beam wiring of the engine compartment. Wired up the switches to molex connectors -- wired up the related dash wiring to the other half of the connectors. Wired up the relays and fuse block in the glove box. Mounted the fuse block with velcro -- will do the same with the 3 relays once I get some more velcro. Connected all the switch and relay grounds to one 10ga wire and grounded that wire. The issues: My battery is dead -- and now it the truck won't even jump start. I'm hoping its just the battery and not the alt or something worse. pssd While it was running I checked to see what was working. The map lights are go, the fog lights are go. The driving lights are a negative just yet. Connected the driving light turn-on wire to a red wire in the steering column. Not sure if thats right yet :confused: According to the Haynes manual its the right HL wire, not sure if thats right but I want to double check that once the trucks running again. :furious:

You too? With 277,000 miles on mine I'm sure SOMETHING will give up the ghost soon. Which other than the $$ it'll be ok -- I've got the VW to drive, and I wouldn't mind learning how to install a new engine/tranny. (If you know the right people anything is possible with pizza and beer)

Saw this and thought I'd try and find some for ya -- but now that I'm actually looking I can only find them in red and blue

Welcome back The power to the switches will come from the HI-beam wire and the Interior illumination wire. The map lights switch will pull it straight from the extra fuse block. That crossed my mind -- but it still doesn't explain why he spliced the hi beam wire behind the passenger headlight. O'well, it makes life interesting at least

You sure? I've been seeing similar flip-cover style switches in walmart and parts houses for the past couple of years. Only diffrence is this is the first I've seen with a blue led-- most are red, green or orange.

I wouldn't say its a hack job -- the relay in the engine compartment has a base on it covering up the connectors, a seperate line to the battery with a 20amp inline fuse, and all the wiring done under hood is fully wrapped/protected. I'm just confudled on why he'd put everything else in the cab and that one relay under-hood. :confused: Same with connecting to the high beams behind the headlight. Just seems like a lot of extra work to me. Another weird thing is that relay underhood is the only thing I've found with a fuse on it! :o Thanks -- I needed to do that to A:) Get it out of my head and SEE it, and B:) Pass some time @ work.

If your taking orders I'd like to request manuals for these: 99.5 VW Golf/Gti 02 VW Jetta 87 Nissan Pathfinder

Is there any reason to do this other than tidying up wiring? If I go through the trouble to relocate that I might as well move the other relay inside too. He he -- Already thought of that -- would make the wiring it in all the easier too. That or just getting a dash mat -- but then again, whats the point in this thing ;-) Heres a quick little diagram I drew up.....

Heres a question -- is it common/worthwhile to install a diode in the line coming from the high beams? It wasn't done on my truck, but a few online writeups I've found mention it.

Those would look pretty sweet I'd think -- Might be a tad bright IMHO though. Would you use that panel though? Cause unless the dash/ash tray changed from 87 to 91 it won't fit. The blank I cut for my replacement panel measured roughly 2"x6". I really like some of that guys stuff! Especially the combination switch/fuse panels.

Those look awesome! Is that a chopped xterra roof rack I see as well?

He He I knew I couldn't open this thread without seeing a comment like that! On Topic: Do (automotive) Bra's really do any good? I thought they only really trapped dirt/rocks between the bra and the paint.

Could you guys take a By-Pass valve and install it one this? Wouldn't that reduce the chances of hydro-locking? I have to agree with a filthy though -- a truck should have a snorkel, not a CAI.

I was wondering if anyone could give me a break down on how to remove the dash from these vehicles. I've gotten as far to remove: Glove box (only because it was already broken) Metal Plate behind Glove box Center Dash cover/piece Climate controls face Center Dash Vent Face I'm not sure how to take the rest of it out -- I'd pry a little more on my own, but the plastic is so brittle I'm worried I'd break it if the exact procedure wasn't followed. The main part I need is the area around the steering column/drivers side -- I need to find out where some of my mystery wires are coming from. :confused: And I might add a WTF in relation to our search function -- I searched for this and ended up with completely un-related findings on every try

I'll agree that the banners could use a touch up -- but leave the rest unchanged -- it works really well as is.

So I started ripping into this yesterday. Results? The guy who wired up that toolbox was either a genius or a madman, I'm not sure which. Where I'm at: Switch panel is made -- used 1/4" ply painted it black and wedged it into the ashtray opening. Looks a lot better than a toolbox on the dash. Wiring: Finally sourced where all the wires are coming from. Dude used three relays total, one for each set of lights on the roof. Two of them were in the toolbox, and one is in the engine compartment. Why he didn't just place all of them in the toolbox confuses me. :confused: He tapped into the High beam wire alright -- right behind the passenger side headlight! Does this make sense to anyone? Seems like you could tap into it at the light switch and avoid a long cable run! Plans: I'm going to install the fuse block in the glove box, along with the two relays. The third relay is going to stay in the engine compartment so I can avoid re-running all the wiring. As soon as I can I'm going to pick up some molex connectors and install them between the switch panel and the wiring coming from the truck for ease of removal later. Once thats done I should be good to button it all back up untill the the next time I need to install something. Going to have to figure out what to do with the 1/2 inch hole in my dash though! :-)

Yowch! I've been there before too -- Hope you get her out ok! But look at the bright side (as far as I know) you didn't get suck in a spot where the guy pulling you out has to warn you that rednecks might have shot your truck full of holes. That happend to me and it didn't make the next day anybetter. Good luck rami!

Certain to be some intense back up lights! Personally I woulda put them up for sale -- easily coulda gotten double your money back. Could have used that to pay for two sets of cheapies to mount back there and still had $$ left over. But thats just my $.02

:eek: Those programmable LCD ones are SICK! A tad out of my range though So I bought a Fuse block today (This one to be exact). It has 6 outputs and a max of 30amps each. Heres the question -- whats a good fuse rating for off road lights? I have some small cheapies, cheap fogs (side illumination from up top) and some KC daylighters that aren't on the truck at the moment. I also have the three map lights (wired as one in a series), and a CB to wire up to this thing. Any suggestions on fuse ratings? :idea: Should I just start with the smallest fuse and step up in size untill it doesn't burn out the fuse consistently? Or am I nuts?