new4x4r

Ok, I'm changing the Inner/outter tie rods AND my wheel bearings tonight! If this doesn't fix the wobble, there is literally nothing left to change hahaha

Shift220 is right, no need... but it wouldn't be a bad idea if you did

I've never been good with words Mike, thats why I have buds like you :-)

If the strut tube below the spring perch compresses, you should find some smaller jumps ;-)

If you're a half inch away from the strut now.. why would you get any closer at any other time? Your wheels don't flex, your spring and strut does. The only movement you should have is your tire distortion where the tire meets the ground.

Nothing beats steelies! But I've never looked for that BS before, just the 3.75. But I know its out there.... haha

Longer lugs are from my local speed shop (12mm 1.25 thread pitch, 13mm knurl ,52mm long) I believe they're from Sparco? I had a half inch spacer made out of aluminum. This method is WAY stronger then the adapter method. Obviously a different Back spaced wheel would be stronger, but this way is safe for the abuse I put the truck through. and I'm doing it on the back as well, just to keep the symmetry of the truck the same(not like half an inch is even noticeable).

No man, you're gonna want more Backspacing. before I got the SFD I tried my buddies 33's. Not sure what backspacing he has on his wheels, but it wasn't enough to clear the strut. You're gonna want at LEAST 3.75. I'd say even more if you can get it. 3.5 or 3.25 even. I know 3.25 would have been perfect with the 35's. But I'd need some flares to help cover the extra tire sticking out the side hahaha

Haven't had the 35's on the hwy.. but I do about 60 on the roads here with them with no problems... pick-up is about the same as it was. I'll know more about my set-up after next weekend, first 4x4 weekend of the year!

Beauty!

Is your rear lower? did you use the rubber insulator at the top of the spring? just get (or make) a rubber spacer ring that sits and the bottom... no big deal. Thats what I'm gonna do when they start to sag

I have 3.75 bs on 15x8's with 35s... I had to cut a little bit off the fenders to make sure there was no rubbing at crank... other than that... if you don't want spacers I would get 3.25 or 3 BS to push them away from the struts. Be prepared to cut! hahaha its really not as bad as I thought. you just have to cut the side of all four fenders that is closest to the doors.

heres a couple pics of the flex, with Nooo problems! if you look closely you can kinda see the rear axle/spring flexin a bit

Morpheus, check the fitment of the 33 on your truck right now.. it should fit with the right backspacing

Thanks dudes! I love the way it works! Yeah the spacers were for the 35's. I have 3.75 bs on 15x8's with the 35x12.5. Really all I had to do was put a 1/4" spacer to get the tire to stop rubbing, but I'm making a 1/2" on to make it a good distance away from the strut. And I'm going the spacer and longer studs to be on the safe side... non of this adapter crap! :-D I'm also going to price out new wheels with more backspacing just to see what the price difference is.

What is it you want me to say then... I'm sorry?

6 ft without shoes.

I got the 35's on! Took it out for the day on Saturday... Everything works awesome! Little underpowered when yanking other vehicles out (when I got traction and the other vehicle was stationary) Rode nice on the road, no power lost when passing cars. The only down-fall was braking. But other than that, everything works awesome! Very impressed with the truck at this point I had get longer wheels studs and 1/2" spacers made to stop rubbing the strut. Now I need some serious flares t okeep me from getting pulled over hahaha

You just need to center up the holes and keep the spacing from the drawings between them. I believe it was the Prado kit that used all 2x4x6 spacers...

I know there is no 2.5... but DON'T ORDER 3 inch wide tube!!! It won't fit between the pinch weld and the subframe on the front Subframe blocks! Just order all 2x4 and cut them in 6 inch lengths... that way you get thicker walled tube and you don't run into space issues. I did 3" x 4 on the rear.. but most of the tube isn't even touching the "frame". And yes.. do everything 4" tall. You'll be fine... 2x4x6 and 4" tall (including strut mount flanges) for the strut spacers

Who is running F250 coils? I've heard of people saying they COULD work, but no-one saying whether or not they work without modification. shift220 is using the 99-04 350 2WD shocks... I went with the ProComp ES-9000's from Summit (PN - 929500) Message shift220 for the CAD file

F-250 coils are too large on the outside diameter of the coil to sit in the top spring perch (From what I read). And for 3"-4" you shouldn't have to extend the front brake lines. I have a 4" SFD, jacked up the front of the truck, to full droop, with no problems to the front brake lines. The REAR on the other hand, had to be extended to something like 30" (with no Sway bar)

Ron has the pics.. he was the shutter bug that night

I'll post pics soon... It towers above even lifted pathfinder now :-)

What is the "right tool" to use for this dude? haha I don't wanna spend 8 hours taking it apart and trying to get the thing back together and find out it was a half hour job with a $20 tool from Princess Auto hahaha (stupid Mazda Brakes)