new4x4r

Good info Boys!! I'm gonna check for this problem... Anyone ever deleted the charcoal canister?

I'm not so much worried about the gearing at this point, as much as I am the "ONE WHEEL PEEL" bullflop that I have to put up with the Xterra 3rd member I installed to GET the 4.9 gearing. To rectify that somewhat, I'm taking my R50 Diff.(carrier) and putting it in the X 3rd member with the ring and pinion. While I'm at it, I'm going to add more clutches. Not sure how many. As per usual, every forum with info on this Mod contradicts every other. You have to sift through it to find one guy who has done it and loves it. Otherwise you get all the "Know it all-Done nothings" hahaha

I'm doing this right now... Steevo is about 3 years too slow with his Lock-rite locker!!! hahahaha

OH MY GOD!!! HOW... DID... YOU ... GET THAT ROOF RACK ON!!!! hahaha Wow. Dude looks awesome!!! Keep up the good work ;-) What did you have to move?

I bought an intercooler and Rad from a company called ssautochrome. Best looking piece on my car. I was thinking of going with their EVO aluminum rad for the Pathmaker. http://www.ssautochrome.com/search.itml?icQueryTitle=radiator

I dropped my truck off lastnight. He'll get on your stuff asap. Did he give you a timeline or anything?

Nice budday! Let me know if I can help ya out at all. I'M VERY EXCITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hahhaa Passionate words Boston!!! Sell your body for some extra cash!!

Definitely Steve!!! I'm gonna be in your neck of the woods early spring doing Quinn Lake :-)

Hey, people will do what they wanna do, it doesn't bother me... I'm ok keeping the "Wheeled, SAS'd, R50's" an exclusive group X-D

Let me know if your fuel economy comes up... mine is soooo bad these days. I'm sure my MAF either needs to be cleaned or replaced

... oh and CV shafts.. I'd just buy 6 packs of them from autopartsway.ca hahahhaa

Wow, I can literally respond to all of these posts... *Deep breath* Staangsfab's kit is worth EVERY PENNY!!! First off, its LIFETIME WARRANTY!!! Secondly, the maintenance parts available for all the front end parts are DIRT CHEAP, AVAILABLE and tough as nails. And finally, the performance improvement is pretty much indescribable. Its a totally different truck... with-out having to go to a vehicle that comes with a solid axle from the factory. To buy something that comes with a solid axle for 5K would put you back to square one (as far as modifications go) So you'll spend another 4-5 on getting your POS Jeep up to where your SAS'd R50 would be with the StaangsFab kit. If you can come up with this kit on your own, this well made, with a warranty, go ahead. I promise, YOU can't. As for how much can you break your IFS to drive you to the SAS? In 8 months I did 4 sets of wheel bearings (NEW SPINDLES EACH TIME because the 35's vaporized the bearings in minutes), Did my inner and outer tie rods 3 times in a year, the struts literally do nothing after a couple "top-outs" and need to be replaced. All of this stuff takes out waaaay too much of my time/money. All of this stuff is eliminated by the Over-engineered parts in the SAS components. If you don't get the hype, come out wheeling with me and see if your IFS can get you over and through the things I can now crawl over with ease. I love my Nissan, I've loved it as it grew from the 2" lift to what it is now. I feel much better knowing that I don't have to settle for a Jeep that is gonna land me back in the shop every time I go out.

Whats your truck doing that you think you need a MAF?

Here it is... It works in conjunction with the airbox mod I did awhile back (after the hydrolock). I just used Marine exhaust tube and a one way flapper valve to drain off any water that gets in there automatically. I hope this helps my fuel economy, it was sucking hot air with the airbox mod (better hot air then water). I don't have a top for it yet. I'm working on a couple right now. I'm also considering a Pre-cleaner. I like the Aussie, safari look hahaha

Here ya go SMARTA$$!!!!

Its pretty simple, Are you changing the bearings and rear seal too? (you don't have to, just a bit more work) You literally just remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper, take you're Warn Hubs off. Remove the snap ring and the locking "nuts" from the CV shaft, the shake the piss out of the rotor to get the Hub assembly off the spindle (be careful not to drop the outter bearing) Remove the bolts from the rotor/hub assembly, bonk the rotor off with a soft hammer (or a hard one, they're garbage anyway. Then re-install the new rotor on the hub by tightening the bolts bit by bit, in a Star pattern. You don't need to remove the rear bearing if the seal is still good. So just repack it (with grease) in the hub, repack the outer bearing and put it all back together. I use a 32 mm socket to bonk the outer bearing back into place. then re-install the locking "Nuts"(they're more of a threaded washer). Tighen then right down so the wheel won't turn, then back it off about a quarter turn (hillbilly pre-load) I don't know he actual torque specs.

I'll have mine in by the weekend. Friggen bed liner I used to cover the pipe took the primer off. So I had to start again. But its all fabbed up and ready to work.

I have a bumper made for a Jeep XJ. I liked the price, durability, weight. So I made it work for me. I took the washer bottle out, replaced it with a rad overflow bottle. I just drilled a hole to accept the washer pump and bushing/seal. all the stuff under the airbox is resonators and restrictors to keep noise down and water out of your air box. It literally does the opposite. So remove it and reroute the intake higher. Other then that, just bend up some aluminum to cover the rad and steering rack and you're golden!

My snorkel is almost on, painted and plumbed up!!!! Thanks for the motivation brudder!!! One question though, where did you get the door edging? My rubber hose trick works, but looks like a bag of d*cks :-)

I am too!

hahaha Holy crap, Thats awesome! Do I get a day named after me or something? "St. Rod's Day" has a nice ring to it X-D

Hey, did I win?!

oh nice! looks really good!

yeah it will be no problem to swap in the metal. Also, you can use 1/4" rubber hose to line the exposed metal on the fender hole/take up the gap. Just slice it down the side and push it on.