new4x4r

the simplest example I can think of to prove my point of view is paintball gun parts.. Even Vegetable based oils ruin Delrin internals of high end paintball guns. We used delrin as a bushing for one of our wind turbine mounts, coated it with Chain lube... less then a week later the turbine wouldn't track the wind because the delrin bushing swelled up

Delrin also expands and contracts with temperature and will swell if in contact with oil

with the spacer on top, it doesn't seem to top out any worse than it did before I installed them. the CV angle is still pretty bad, but I don't remember how bad it was before I put them on.

I did the same as Fleurys, pressed the one that fit over the bolt into the shock

Thanks again Fleurys, I know I've asked for that link about 5 times now. As for Sandwiching the spacer between... I never thought about the extra inch of angle that would save. Uh oh, I'm going to get good at this by the time I get it right :-) Is it worth me doing it again? Should I wait until I install the new CV shafts?

yeah theres all kinds of good stuff around the work bench.. some prototype Wind Gen Rotors, alternators, I think there was a starter from a 1940's Cadillac. haha

Now wiggle the entire strut assembly back into position tighten the nuts in the engine bay re-attach the sway bar link, abs wire and brake line, as well as the camber adjustment bolt that you probably didn't break disassembling the strut :-) (someone send me a message where I can get the good adjustment bolts... Fleurys hahaha) everything should look like this when its all finished... only less dirt, maybe. And thats all! Level again

make sure you test these holes too, its no fun trying to line up the heavy strut assembly and find out theres a burr in the way Now bolt the two halves of the strut mount together Attach the strut spacer to the two halves. Make sure the "Made in Canada" sticker is right side up (Deep threads at the top) if you don't do this the bolt will not pull everything in tight Now the fun part, reassemble the strut ass. I got "the wife" to do her best impression of threading a nut... didn't work out so well. SO I held the strut mount on top of the strut/spring with my body weight and got a couple threads hooked up on the nut. From there I could tighten it down with the ratchet Now release the spring compressors and it should look like this

it should look like this when its out then widen the holes with a 33/64 drill bit test fit the 1/2 bolt in the holes Now drill the top half of the mount with the same bit Now drill the strut tower in the engine bay

Ok here goes (second try to post these pics) Heres what I did to get these Spacers installed. First I jacked up the truck, placed it on a jack stand. Then I used to jack to relieve some of the pressure from the strut. I then removed the pinch bolts to release the bottom of the strut, the Sway bar link, abs wire and brake line then i removed the nuts from the strut tower inside the engine bay then I maneuvered the whole assembly out from the wheel well and placed it on the bench, I put the spring comressors on before I removed the nuts from the strut tower to save time... Compress the springs as much as you can before you remove the strut nut Remove the nut from the top of the strut, be careful there may be some tension left over after you have the mount separated from the strut and spring, remove the stud by placing it either on a vise or a socket slightly larger than the stud and hit it with a hammer, it should come out pretty easy

alllrighty will do!

You'll run into just as many problems doing it that way, ie. Hammering out the press in studs, drilling the holes, bolt/Nylon nut length, etc. I only have the Princess Auto Spring compressors, and it really isn't that hard to get the springs down enough to be able to get the strut nut back on. I can take pics of every step I take tonight if you want? I still have to do the passenger side. Just to show you how hard it is.

The factory studs on the lower side of the strut mount came out surprisingly easy. I just set them on the vise, tapped them with the hammer and out they came. I thought I was going to have to use the press. As for the Grade 8 bolts, Daddy Rim's came up with that brilliant idear haha. And like he said, the spaceres are threaded, so when you assemble to strut assembly on the bench, they actually hold it all together. Makes lining it up under the truck very simple. Just had to re drill the strut mount holes a bit and BAM you're done. I had more trouble getting the Camber bolt out to remove my strut (don't get me started on my spring compressors) SO FAR, SO GOOD!

No, its almost perfectly level with the spacers. As for the pics of the CV angle, I can tell you now, its bad :-) my CV boots are F@%KED and the Joints themselves aren't fairing much better. I need to buy a new set, but I have to get the manual hubs first (not from autopartsway.ca though) haha

Yeah AC coils all around. And the Tire is 31"... I'm pretty sure I'll be going 33" when its time for new ones though, I'm so far from rubbing its not funny!

Sorry about the muddy job site, I couldn't be bothered cleaning it off :-) I just did the one side tonight, too tired to tackle the other. I'll do it tomorrow. Engine bay side... It looks blue/purple because the company I work for needed a sample to try their hard anodizing on. Didn't work so well heres the Drivers side with the spacer, you can't really notice the difference... but I can ;-) it was starting to settle pretty good

Amen Sister!

I know where you can get those! And for a good price too :-)

I want my truck to be more Mud-odynamic :-)

Buy Fleurys!

yep!

I looked at the 3.5 alty. It will work as well with the same bracket just flipped over. it has the same plug, neg and pos connections.

I'll have a look tomorrow morning. I can compare clock position and the pulley dimensions. But it will be another one of those, 70% sure until I can check with someone with the 3.5L.

Aren't the 99.5 - 04 3.3's basically the same? I can take orders anytime now for the R50's. We've actually got a guy going to our Buffalo warehouse tomorrow or thursday (I believe its tomorrow though) So I'll send him down with some plugs/Brackets and hardware so we can ship them out from there.. save on costs and time

Sure will! The cut-in RPM on the 120 - 160 is really low, so you won't run into any problems at idle.