mws

On my 87 and 88 there is a block off plate in the engine compartment right above the spot where the throttle cable goes through the firewall. It is held on with 3 screws. Pop the screws and pull the plate and you can drill it conveniently on the workbench. Make sure you put a grommet in!

Sniff.... I missed you guys! No e-mail here, either. But persistent check backs? Yup!

Or you can flush your own - it achieves the exact same quality of a flush, just a bit more work - and a lot of mess if you're not careful! 1) Drain the pan and the lines. 2) Refill pan with fresh ATF through filler pipe 3) Detach the outlet hose from the radiator cooler 4) Stick that hose in a 5 gallon bucket with at least a couple gallons of fresh ATF 5) Put a piece of tubing on the outlet nipple of the cooler 6) Put that piece of tubing in an emty 5 gallon bucket. SECURE it in the bucket so it doesn't shoot out and do the dancing cobra of slippery red puke trick.... 7) Have someone else start car (in PARK). Watch carefully. As it runs, the AT will pump all the old fluid out into the empty bucket as it pulls clean fluid out of pan. It MAY suck in clean fluid from the full bucket. If not, stop the engine and get a funnel. Pour clean fluid into dipstick to refill, and then re-start and try to keep feeding fresh fluid in at about the same rate as it is pumping the old out. As long as the AT pump has a supply of fresh oil to pump from (the pan) it will pump the old crap out of the TC all by itself. The stuff you pump out will go from horrid to a mix to just about 100% clean within a couple gallons.

I have a big one in the back, and a little halon job in the glove box.

The A/T has a pump that moves the fluid. Height does not matter (within reason - I wouldn't mount on roof, for instance) Is it a plate style (B&M) or a tube and fin? If a plate style, you want to mount it so the outlet is towards the top so it self purges air bubbles. So sideways is fine (in at bottom, out at top), or with both bungs pointed up. But mounting with both bungs pointed down results in an air trap and decreased effectiveness. But that is the only negative to plate. They are more effective for a given size and are very durable. If tube and fin, orientation does not matter much, but it is most effective at self purging air bubbles if the bungs point to the sides with the inlet at the bottom and outlet at top.

I have to agree that is MUCH more logically classified as a rotary than a turbine. Calling it a "quasi turbine" is a huge stretch, and it kinda undermines the credibility of the people doing it. Freaking marketing pukes....

If it was some kind of electric locker, there would be visible wires running to the diff....

It's simple to remove - just unbolt it. Some like the look without it, some prefer the functionality with it. Your choice, do what floats YOUR boat.

A huge tranny cooler if you have an automatic trans....

Wishing you well! Many of us deeply appreciate the sacrifices and contributions of those in the armed services. Never forget that. We won't forget you. There's a lot of things that won't make sense. Try to not dwell on them. Don't do the easy things, do the right things. Stand for what is right, and refuse to tolerate what is wrong. Serve with pride and honor, and never compromise your integrity and self respect. Sincerely, Martin

Yeah... my only possible non-insultive response would be the ever popular "Wow. It certainly looks like you spent a lot of money on it...." Just what is the point of those lights on the roll bar? To look at bats under freeway overpasses?

Welcome to NPORA! Searching and perusing will reveal many threads on this. Condensed version: 33's will require 3" body lift + 3" suspension lift and maybe some minor plastic and metal trimming. Will also require steering upgrades to avoid problems due to the greatly increased weight. Will also cost you fuel economy - at least 2 mpg, maybe as much as 5. StocK: Most can fit 31x10.5's just fine with proper backspacing on the wheels. Maybe a little tweak on the TB's if they've sagged. Idler arm upgrades strongly suggested if actually using it off road. Again, do some searching and reading through the archives and you can learn a huge amount here. Heck, this is where most of us have learned the basics!

Some are obviously done "tongue in cheek" as a joke, but some appear more likely from the "head in arse" school of design and customization...

Point 1: I think they would be pretty similar. The CH100 feet supposedly attach to these rails and most factory rails. Point 2: I had the same concern. Then as I thought about it, I realized the real limitation will always be the strength and rigidity of the vehicle roof and where the installer put it on the roof. If you put them near the middle of a flat and thin roof with minimal cross bracing, a load of even 50 pounds would likely buckle the roof. But near the side edges of a thick and well engineered roof, my quick calcs (based on my estimate of their size and assuming 2024 aluminum) show the tracks could easily support a couple to several hundred pounds of well distributed load.

Looking at the feet on Surco's CH100 channel adapters, it looks real easy to make my own feet to fit in the rails. http://www.surcoinc.com/surco.html Here's a better pic of the adapter: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...+0&autoview=sku

You do realize these are just the longitudinal (front to rear) mounting rails and you still need to get cross bars to strap the boards to, right?

After going to Surco's website and looking some more, I am even more interested in them for our Frankenvan. I am designing a rack and winch system to carry a second quad on the roof and need a way to distribute the 400 pound load to avoid caving in the roof. These look nearly perfect! Thanks for making me aware of them! I'm thinking I may put a 3" wide plate underneath to spread the load width wise, but having a track mount solution will be sweet. Mount these tracks permanently, then fab up three crossbars, wheel rails, winch, ramps and bingo! Frankenvan gains even more capability!

Those actually look darned impressive to me... This is the first time I've seen them. They look beefy enough to distribute the load quite well - they look beefier than factory - so you should be able to put at least a couple hundred pounds up there without caving in the roof. As always, you would want to mount them as close to the outer edges as possible for maximum strength. Anybody have any personal experience with them?

I was going to suggest a bad connection and to clean all the terminals... Here's my thought: If it was an intermittent short that flowed enough current to suck that much power, it really should blow a fuse. Modern vehicles should have all circuits properly protected. So the next thought would be a bad connection. When things shift due to weight transfer, something is occaisionally going almost open and not enough current is getting through to power everything. I'll bet major bucks you truly fixed it with the battery terminal cleaning!

Nice! I'd absolutely love to get my hands on something like that for our Frankenvan... As it is, I am going to try to squeeze 2 Taurus fans in there. Climbing up ultra twisty 15% grades at 10 mph while hauling our trailer and toys on 100+ degree days requires a wee bit more airflow than stock! I have a Taurus fan in my '88. The main benefit I've found is fuel economy. It takes a lot of energy to spin a fan. If you don't need to, why do it? Back to back 1000 mile round trips showed well over 1 mpg improvement. I have it wired where the fan is always off at highway speeds, even if the A/C is on.

It's very, very rare for a header made for one vehicle to fit in a different vehicle as there are hundreds of things that could interfere...

That's a pretty wide open question... All methods have their strong points and their not so strong points. Cost, ease of use, control, weld quality and strength, and thick plate heating ability are all variables to consider. My standard recomendation is to take a class where you can play with ALL of the technologies and decide for yourself. I took a night class (7 hours/week for 14 weeks) through our local community college and it was about the best $200 I've EVER spent. Pretty much unlimited time on the equipment to play and learn. Most home welders settle on SMAW(stick) or GMAW(MIG) for welding up bumpers and the like.

That's because the words "Honda", "Civic", "ricer", and "ghey" do not appear in the name Nissan Pathfinder....

have you done a search and look at all the photos that have been posted here before?

I can't answer your specific questions, sorry! But I will advise to inspect carefully before diving in. A lot of perceived rear main seal leaks turn out to be leaks originating somewhere else, with the leaked fluid migrating due to gravity, capillary action, and under hood air currents. Get a mirror and a bright flashlight and inspect the back and sides (especially around the oil filter and sending units) of the engine to verify it isn't starting somewhere else.