mws

Buzzing only when cold... hmmmm.... never heard buzzing as a symptom of a transmission issue. But if it only happens when cold and only in the first three gears, I suspect something with the synchros. And cold dino oil is much thicker than a pure synthetic, so I suspect the full synthetic may eliminate it. Unfortunately, I do not know anything about the Lucas Gear Oil, and I can't find anything of use on their website. I couldn't even find out if it was a GL4 or GL5 oil.... A very convenient and good priced source for the RedLine is Summit Racing: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...15&autoview=sku 1-3 days to your door just about anywhere in the US.... If you're east coast, I believe Jeg's also carries it. Double check in your manual what weight you need - I do not know for a '99. MT-90 is 75w90, MTL is 70w80.

Just tell him it has to do with the ejection seat mechanism.... Kind of a precursor to the SRS systems put on later model cars. But discontinuted as it was prone to malfunction at inopportune times. The light is on the ECU.

If I recall correctly, you need to support the lower control arm if you do not ease tension on the torsion bar. The stop to limit downward travel is on the UCA, so if you release the upper ball joint from the spindel without something under the LCA, it will pop downward. In a dramatic fashion.

I would absolutely install the BIGGEST tranny cooler you can find, and a transmission temp gauge would be verrrrry wise. Other than that, you should be OK as long as you keep in mind everything is getting worked very hard. The cooler temperatures of winter will work in your favor.

Mayyyybeeee..... But I think you're on your own there, I haven't heard of anyone trying that yet. Personally, I'm doubtful. Anything I can see to do would result in it more likely to unlock at heavy loads - exactly what you don't want. I really wish they (Richmond) offered the PowerTrax as well as the Lock-Right for the H233B, as it sounds like it would be much nicer on the street. But they don't.

I REALLY like the RC 8000 Heckethorns I got through Rough Country... Nowhere near as stupid filling dislodging harsh as some aftermarket shocks, but plenty tough to handle offroading. And very reasonable prices. http://www.roughcountry.com/shocks-8000.htm

As Simon says (bwaaaa, haaaa haaaaa) The inner edge wear is most commonly caused by excessive toe out. It can be caused by excess camber, but it takes at least a couple degrees to cause noticeable wear. Stand about 40 feet in front of the truck and compare the angle of the front wheels to the rears. The rear wheels are straight up and down, so it should be easy to compare the tilt of the fronts to the rears. If the tops of the front tires are tilting in noticably so the front wheels look like / \ then your camber may be excessive. If they look close to vertical, then the wear is being caused by toe out or severely worn bushings.

3M makes a gasket "softener" for the professional auto repair market, but it can be tricky to find. Try brake cleaner? I usually resort to razor blades and extreme care - the blade will cut right into the aluminum if you hold it too upright.

Oh, and when I was considering what to get, I narrowed it down to two options: Cost is an issue: Lockrite Cost is not an issue: ARB The Detroit only received passing interest... If I could afford more than the lockrite, I would keep saving until I could go top shelf and get the ARB. Lockrite=Chevy Detroit=Cadillac ARB= BMW or Mercedes I've never been interested in caddies - if I'm going to spend that much extra $, I'm going all the way and going for the best. I really, really like the controllability of an ARB - especially on snow or ice. If you are capable of thinking and understanding when a locked axle is better and when an open is better, you can manually optimize for conditions!

The Detroit is an older "classic" design. The Lock-Rite is a newish design and is impressively simple - less parts means less cost. Which is better? Hmmmm.... which tastes better - Apples or oranges? Off road, I'll argue they're equally capable. On road, I think I give a slight nod towards the Detroit, as the Lock-Rite does not unlock as easily as I would prefer in corners. You have to think more with the Lock-Rite. If you're on the throttle, it is locked - period. Makes tight corners on asphalt difficult to execute smoothly and quietly. Hop hop hop POP.... Those of us with them have adapted and I have no intents of giving it up, but letting others drive requires advance notice of what's going to happen!

First check: Have someone flip the switch and listen - you should hear the relay "click". Oh, and you do have the headlights on and on low beam, right? With the stock wiring, the fogs will only come on only with the low beams.

Dammmmmm..... diagnosed and a solotion posted up in only 14 minutes...

Oh, aaron aaron aaron.... Before paying someone else to build them, check with your buddies! I have custom built (from scratch - putting ends on raw hose) several sets for motorcycles, and have a local speed shop that sells all kinds of ends to go onto modular hoses... Costs a little more, but the modularity is nice - if you want to change the length, you just get a new hose, but re-use the ends.

Unfortunately, you are right.... you know the answer. And it sucks. :sniff:

If cost is no object, you can get as much flex as you want out of either. They are both working under the same principles. However, multi leaf packs will always have more friction so theoretically they are slightly inferior. And getting a moderately large amount of travel out of a stock leaf system is usually more difficult than a stock coil. As I say so often, "resist the temptation to confuse popular with better". As a non Jeep owner, I know you understand the concept!

Mine was a stand alone in line blade style fuse in the added on wires going to the lights. The fuse was near the firewall on the passenger side.

Outstanding!

+2 on the throwout. Sounds like you got one of the not so good ones, or maybe there is an issue with the release arm - tweaked or bent so it is applying a side load? Inspect it carefully when you install the new bearing, and make sure it is pushing evenly.

Are you planning to disconnect the power from the entire vehicle? Then yeah, 4 AWG wire and a switch capable of handling 200 amps or more is in order. Keep in mind that disconnecting all power will also cause your ECU to reset - which means your mpg will drop for a couple hundred miles until it re-optimizes itself. To prevent hotwiring, most folks choose to only disrupt the wires going from the ignition key to the solenoid and the hot wire to the ignition coil. Myself, I will add a security relay to the starter solenoid if I'm really concerned about security, but I will never again add any kind of electrical switching to the ignition. I hit a pothole once that caused the relay on an ignition cut out to bounce and not reset properly. A freak occurence for sure, but it happened on a two lane road while passing a truck. And there was another truck coming at us. Lesson learned. On our touring bike, I added a locking connector with ultra high reliability gold plated contacts in the wire to the coil. Unplug it, no run. But there is no way it can bounce.

Kill switch to do what?

In general, there are more problems fitting 15" aluminum wheels on vehicles with big disks than steel. The aluminum wheel must be thicker, so it is more likely to interfere with the caliper.

First off, I'm delighted no one was hurt! One more gold star for the Nissan crash protection engineering team! I suspect the stock assembly was sonically welded together to form a weather tight seal. It will be difficult to split open, but might be possible. Just in case you weren't aware of this option, Rock Auto has brand new replacement assemblies for under $100. Not OE Nissan assemblies, but the ones I purchased for the pathy were close enough to OE fit and finish to be acceptable to me. Comparing side to side, I can see some differences, but they installed just fine and work fine.

Have you ever seen what happens when a wheel bearing completely fails? Usually just a lot of noise, but I have also seen a situation where it lead to a spindle failure on my colleagues cougar. Fortunately, it happened at low speed so there were no injuries. But.... If it were me, I wouldn't drive it. "Scorching hot" is a pretty strong message - about the loudest message the hub can send you short of complete mechanical failure. I would choose to listen. Rent a car. It would be cheaper than having it fail on the way and leading you to take out half a dozen innocent bystanders.....

I knew there would be some improvement, but the 25% was a shocker. From a theoretical standpoint, I think the tires make more difference. I'll find out in the spring when I put the heavy wheels back on. I'll make sure to do some careful mpg checks now, and then a couple tanks with just the wheels.

More data is required, but I was shocked at the last fill up. When using the newer Pathy for around town jaunts, I was getting about 12 to 13 mpg. Last night, I noticed I had well over 200 miles, which normally meant I was about due. But the gas gauge still read over 1/4. Hmmm.... maybe a gas gauge issue? So I stopped and filled up... Took only 13 gallons. That means, wow! Over 15 mpg with 100% in town driving! All I changed was the fluids and wheels/tires. The oil, TC, transmission, and rear diff were changed over to Mobil 1 and Redline. And I pulled the steel wheels with 31x10.5-15 Cooper STT's to put on the winter tires/aluminum wheels in a P255/70-16. These work out to be almost exactly the same size, but about 15 lbs per wheel lighter. I will monitor carefully and let you all know if the improvement continues.