GrimGreg

Mine sprung a pin-hole leak in the flexible part. I cut out the bad section and spliced it back together with a standard barbed fitting and 2 hose clamps.

Look on the bright side, you can go ahead and clock the axel while you are at it, save some drive line vibe.

They make 4", but I've never seen them marketed in the States. I've seen them listed on Japanese aftermarket sites and listed as a mod on some Icelandic trucks (also seen 6" BLs too).

In rural Ohio, all the old retired mill and coal miners drive around in their S10s and Rangers with those, the little rear cab flairs, 10million running lights and too much stick on chrome crap.

Most people who choose bolt on are afraid they might want to remove them in the future. If you are gonna do it for use, weld it! As for weakening, hell, the frames rust to hell and back and need welded back together anyway !

I bought my 93 used in 01 and the first time I put them back up after folding them flat they went back up at different angles...that is when I learned.

Mine is on a thermostat, but I have the second pole on the relay run to a switch so I can turn it on if I think it needs to be on, or when I turn the AC on.

You mean the Fiberglass or ABS things that bolt over the top of the windsheild that all the rednecks have?

Neither a crank driven nor an electric fan are going to handle that well.

Where an e-fan shines is in stop and go traffic where your at low RPMs and not moving very fast. The e-fan is going to run at full (unless wired otherwise) speed no matter what RPM the engine is going.

On my friends we swapped in new hoses rather than use the extentions they send. The gas fill tube especially is worth just getting a new one. Power steering is cool either way, I left mine in place for the 2" lift, but relocated the hard lines on the frame up an inch and was fine. On the 2 and 3 inch the fuel filter was as easy as flipping the mount for it upside down. With the brake lines on the firewall, just pry apart the coiled part on the passenger side as you lift it. The AC line on the firewall can stay, but check where it comes past the master cylinder to see it doesn't rub after the lift. If you are using the radiator drop then you'll have to cut the stock lower mount out in order to put the drop bracket on, if not using the drop kit you need to remove and trim down the lower radiator hose and rotate the upper to eliminate any kinking as well as remove the lower section of the fan shroud.... Bunch of little things, just post up if you hit any snags and we'll get you through them. BTW PB Blaster the hell outa any bolt you are gonna remove, starting now and repeat twice a day till you do the BL .

Might just need the blower motor serviced and the mechanism lubed up. My 93 got some water in it's blower motor from a clogged condensation drain on the AC. It stopped running properly so I pulled it all apart, cleaned and lubed everything and put it back in. Been working fine for 3 years since.

Bumper mounts on the frame are the same on all years.

The main difference is the rear body mount bolts got changed in 93 (I think it was 93 at least) to a larger diameter. The kit AC sells has bolts swapped in that fit.

A "smooth" shift, isn't always a good thing in an auto.

Exactly, I have heard of quite a few similar stories. When you start to realize the whole "green" thing isn't about saving anything, but rather a new reason to tax you and control you.

You'll have to remove that extra 3", you'll actually do the damage on droop. Look at which direction your trailing arms swing . I assume you already checked that the U-joints were the same size, if not might as well get the ends swapped while the shop is shortening it.

I wheel with my cone, but I also don't go charging headlong into water crossings and am not worried about dust since it's an oiled element that catches it pretty well.

I was talking those who actually rebuilt...but most of them were on AC's forums. I know one guy local and the kit did wonders on his HB's. http://www.transgoperformance.com/faq.html

CA is so screwy that you can convert your engine, or replace your engine with something that will emit less "polution" and fail their tests simply because you modified the engine.

Actually, most people I know put the Trans-Go" kit in when they rebuilt and it ended up a stronger unit than stock.

And I thought I was a cheapskate......

Why are they going to tell you ways to catch the same fish they are trying to catch?

Hate muchly, I hate all Hondas.

Interesting design. Can't invert that.