GrimGreg

Both, plus pet names.

Not so much bolted to the frame, but you want good rigid mount points. Also, the top/rear center mount should be as close to your shoulder level as possible. http://willraceforfood.blogspot.com/2008/0...s-mounting.html

Actually on the tank? Or on the skid, the access cover(cargo floor)....? My access cover rotted out on the 88 also, so I made a new cover for it (the brown square at the top of the rear seat area pic). If it is on the tank its self then fill the tank, and then take a wire brush to the spot and gently scour the spot and hope it is surface only. I would also hit it with some naval jelly, or other rust converting chemicals then paint it.

Isn't that stuff suposed to be applied increadibly thick also? The last bridge paint I had to use was about as thick as tar and you had to apply it at a nominal 3/8" thickness.

You also have a neglected TBI model, fully tuned up and running right you would see 18 no problem. My 88 averages 16-17.

Actually bedlining an entire vehicle is kinda common in the offroad circle. A lot of companies even have colors now, so you don't have to be black, unless you want to. Actually cleaning it isn't too hard, just spray it off and if it dulls you can just Armorall the entire thing, lol.

You would think it would have been burning, but no, you couldn't even tell the floor was gone with the carpet in there. I too used sheetmetal, some is screwed in place other is welded, all the repairs are covered with fiberglass on the inside.

How my 88 looked after I cut out all the rust. You might also want to look under your carpet at all the panel seams, they tend to rust out also leaving holes that aren't noticable with the carpet covering them. This is what I foune under my pedals: Had the same issue on the passenger footwell allong with the seam in the rear seat footwell, and the seam where the cargo floor meets the dip for the rear seats.

Similar here, I regularly get 18-20mpg on the highway with my 93.

Yeah, Moog quality isn't what it used to be. That said, some "house brands" are Moog, some are OEM, and some are super crap. I would ask the sales person to bring you all the ones they carry and compare them at the counter.

I measured from the ground to the frame rail on either side since the body can be off slightly because of the rubber body mount components.

I only used 1 stock mounting point. I made new bolt holes for the rest.

1, between the y-pipe and the cat.

Actually low RPM in low gears uses a good bit of gas.

They are a fine pitch thread, so it will be a lot of turns. Best thing to do is adjust it, drop it, drive around the block, then measure both sides, reapeat till at desired height and level.

Along with a few more EGR sensors.

As you mentioned yourself, ease out some of the coil to raise that side up if you want them level. Check the wire for the ABS sensor at the rear diff, and follow it back. With the lift you might have pulled on it.

I don't think they are truely any different, but they need to be certified, so you pay more for one with a certified stamp probably...just a guess .

Where is the utility of a vehicle that can't leave pavement?

They always have Cherokars and Grand Cherokars, maybe they just break more often.

I have yet to see a R50 in the pick-and-pull here.

Tex posted a pic of one on a round dash in NZ, think it either had a base adapter, or was a completely different unit.

Or just go but a piece of Bar stock, drill 2 holes in one end, and 1 in the other, bolt it to the diff, and hook the spring through the single hole.

OK, I just lost my breakfast, Murrano #1, what kind of jack-ass-idiot created that list.

Why I have 2, one for me, one for the wife. She'd like to run over the Zombies as much as I would.