GrimGreg

What is funny, is Fram was a top rated brand in the 80s.

They lit up in my mother-in-law's. Her's was a 94 and the buttons looked a little different.

Natural concrete! Yeah, I try to spray my truck off on the "warmer" days, but sometimes that is after a month of daily running in salt. There is the coin op pressure wash down the road, but then you have to drive 1/2 mile on salted road to get home, so pretty much, what's the point?

I use Pure-One filters, they are the high end Purolator, never had trouble.

Same, I keep an eye out for one for ekupathy87 when ever I'm at the J-yard.

At least the front wheel didn't come through the firewall and break your legs .

I would go back to the J-yard and star pulling the wiring back. I know in my mother-in-law's 94 she had, the switches were in the center console, but from there I don't know where the wiring went. It could be like the power mirrors, I added those on my 93, the dash wiring is all there but the wiring in the door is not.

Discount, at a dealer?

87, the engine was made to run on it.

I think I would strap the truck off to a tree or something in case it shakes it's self off the jack stands.

The ones on my 93 are also discontinued, Panther brand: My 88 just has basic black steel wheels, similar to Precise's.

I'll use it in power mode offroad for climbs, don't want it to shift normally and bog down half way up and lose momentum (been there, wasn't fun).

I would guess you switch contacts are burnt. Search on the headlight switch, common problem.

Depending on which bit, you can get a pack of generic ones for like $2 at the part store, I did that for a broken piece on my 93. When I had to replace parts on my 88, I used Nunya's method.

Yeah, after looking at the electrical diagrams it would appear that all the power goes from the fusable link to the ECU. So I'm begining to suspect that one or more of them, though looking intact, might be corroded or otherwise dead.

Yep, the dash lights all come on. ECU ground is good.

I hear the pump kick on when I turn the key and I smell gas in the intake after cranking it. The first thing I checked was the pump fuse (been there).

So as I mentioned in Poho, I had my 88 towed home after it died a mile up the road. I had driven to the gas station and filled up, then started it back up and drove about 50 feet out of the gas station and it died, coasted across the street to another gas station and tried to restart it, it fired up and then died again about 2 seconds later, then nothing. After checking various other things I pulled the coil wire off and put it near a ground to see if I had a spark when I turned the key, nothing. So, I got the tow home. Next day I had my old coil (case cracked, but still worked) that I wrapped in 10 layers of electrical tape and plugged it in and still no spark. Today I went to try and check my codes and no light from the LEDs on the ECU. So, is there a power lead to the ECU that is seperate from the main feed? I get all my dash lights, and the fuel pump spins up. I checked my fuses and nothing read specific for the ECU, though none appear to be blown either. Originally I was thinking my igniter was probably bad, but with no ECU lights, I'm wondering if it isn't a bigger issue. Fusable links are all intact, so it isn't that. I doubt it is the ECU it's self gone bad, just because of how it died. I'm kinda stumped.

You'll be back in the sadle again

Don't go near a microwave!

Just stick a tampon on it!

Which is where the temp sensor comes in, if set right, the fan won't come on on the freeway.

Your uppers would need to have a custom mount added to the frame (and the gas tank would probably need relocated). Not sure of the width for the lowers, but you could probably use the front leaf mounts to attach the lowers, you would probably need to extend them a couple inches to do that anyway. Then you would have to make some spring perches for the frame side as well as a mount for the panhard bar and shocks (or "cut and paste" those parts of the frame from the Pathy).

Could just go to the dealer (as long as it is an OE lock nut) and ask them to remove it, they tend to keep a stock of locknut sockets rather than asking each customer to dig out their's.

At highway speeds you should leave the E-fan off, the air flow from moving at that speed is faster than either the stock fan or an E-fan can additionally move the air. Where the fans (either type) work most is at low speed and idling. The only trouble I have had with my e-fan was that it doesn't pull enough through my tranny cooler (round fan in center, tranny cooler set to bottom right in front of radiator), but that was my mistake for not remounting the cooler more centered. It only gives me trouble when doing long slow climbs off roading, if I stop and just let it sit for a few it cools right down just fine. My fan is run off a temp sensor, so I have it set to turn on if the guage goes past 3/8s (trial and error with the control screw and idling for 30 min in the driveway). I bought a Hayden that according to their guide is the proper replacement for the stock fan. Fan part # 3710, controler part # 3653, both Hayden.