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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/21/2024 in all areas

  1. You would need to change out the Pitman arm to the different taper size IIRC. Rockauto seems to have all of the front end parts at a reasonable price for a 1991. The ball joints are all the same, though as well as the sway bar links. I would get it in the air and check what parts actually have play in them, and grease any zerks you find (there are bolts that can be removed on the factory joints to install zerks). Replacing old tie rods, etc that aren't worn (tbh I would hold onto those original parts as long as you can because the new stuff is crap) won't improve the ride at all. Make sure the steering stops are greased up, they are a big source for front end noise. Check the tension rod (also called strut rod) bushings, they can cause some funny handling and the hole in the frame is usually slogged out from them being loose. There are numerous threads on it here. Make sure your tires are not 30 years old, and are the proper load range, as well as balanced properly. If you are going to replace it all, try and stick with name brand parts, there's been a few people here over the years that regretted buying those ebay style kits. You just end up replacing it again and again.
    2 points
  2. I'll bet this is related. They're not supposed to do that--I've only heard of them clattering if they're run with straight oil (without the special LSD goo). I'm still not sure how it would've failed there, but I'm gonna guess there's a connection between the clutches having a little stick/slip party and the guide that couples the clutches to the housing letting go.
    1 point
  3. The tapers for the tie rod ends and pitman arm changed 8/92 for some reason. I found out the fun way, with an early '92 knuckle half installed on my '93 and a tie rod that just would not go in. I haven't tried the kits. I bought the various front end joints for mine off Rockauto, mostly 555 if I remember right (I think some of it was sold as Beck/Arnley, but the actual parts were 555). Ball joints, tie rods, centerlink, idler. Turned out most of the slop that I was chasing was in the steering box. I tried to adjust it, screwed it up, replaced with a reman that turned out to be even sloppier (and the pitman shaft seal leaks just enough to piss me off). If you've chasing play or you've got a clunk in the steering, have someone saw the wheel back and forth while you crawl under the front and see what's got play in it. Sway bar links/bushings can also clunk pretty bad. Put a dab of grease on the steering stops while you're under there. Those make haunted house noises at full lock if they're dry. I think they were supposed to have plastic caps on them at one point. +1 for doing the strut rod bushings, though. Mine looked fine until I took them apart. I welded bearing cups to the frame on mine in place of the sheet metal bushing cups that were broken off.
    1 point
  4. Yeah you are only talking about a .6" difference between the 2 options, and the backspacing with both should put you within the wheel well. So it'll really depend on whether you want a slightly wider stance with -6. The +10s will be closer to stock, which is I think +20.
    1 point
  5. The service manual says 3.6 liters, and the TSB didn't change it for the 2WD. So AFAIK, that is the correct capacity. If it takes something in that ballpark before it starts coming back out, I'd call that good. The service manual is much more useful than the owner's manual. You can get the '90 manual from Cardiagn.com if yours is square-dash, or the '94/'95 from Nicoclub if it's round-dash.
    1 point
  6. Did you check this out? https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder%2F1993%2FCapacities.pdf Here is a screencap from the 1994 manual, looks the same. The 4wd use a different casing which I would assume makes it take more. You can also measure (roughly) what you drain out of it so you have an idea of how much was in it. If it's lasted this long and isn't doing the whine of death (like my 4wd is lol)...
    1 point
  7. Awesome. Thanks for the info. I think I was more worried about too much backspace with the +10 on an 8" wide wheel. I'd prefer more tuck but if the -6 didn't stick out much I'd be ok with that.
    1 point
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