Leaderboard

I just went out and cleared the codes and it has the same issue which tells me it is likely in the distributor and not the ECM. It is still not showing a code after trying to start it which tells me it is likely mechanical. Yeah I did tinker with the fast idle cam after the idle speed was high once I cleaned the throttle body. I also found a couple vacuum leaks after I messed with the idle. Not sure I got those back to where they belong but first I need to get it firing again.

The factory thermostat on the VG30 is 170°F. Combine with the very efficient fax clutch these dont have issues with overheating. If it does overheat then you have a problem elsewhere.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to check/replace the strut rod bushings, where the rear of the front control arms meet the frame. They're usually destroyed inside, even if they still look okay.

Never ended up actually posting my E-Fan swap besides some info on another post. If I had to do it again, dual 12" not 10.

Download the '94/'95 service manual for free here. EF&EC and EL will be your friends for this one, but you might as well download the whole thing. It comes in handy. Start with the check engine light. The EF&EC section will tell you how to get a code from the ECU, what it means, and what to check to chase it down. My money's on code 14, speed sensor. The transmission computer doesn't have a check light, but it'll flash the light in the E-AT switch after startup if it saw something in the last drive that it didn't like. The AT section has information for decoding those flashes. If you do see the flashes, I recommend recording them on your phone for easy playback, as it may take a few tries to read them properly. I haven't had to do one yet, but I've heard the speed sensors in these can be a pig to get out, and the drive gear may be difficult to track down/not included with the new sensor. Test and make sure you're on the right track before throwing a sensor at it. Good luck and let us know what you find!

Thanks for linking an explanation video. That's good to know! I will check with these suppliers and see if they ship to Canada.

I have no idea, but I would check your work inside the hatch first in case something just didn't clip in properly and worked loose. If it thinks the hatch glass is open, maybe that cancels arming the alarm?

EL-213 in the '97 manual says it'll take up to four. The same page also has the procedure for programming new remotes. If the last person to program the system programmed in more than two remotes, reprogramming it with just yours would make it forget the other codes. If that doesn't do it, you might try programming in just one remote at a time, to see if one of them has a doppelganger in the neighborhood. I would hope the OE remotes all had different codes, but who knows how the aftermarket remotes are set up. Or I guess you could walk around the block with your remotes, pressing the panic button on one, then the other, by every late '90s/early '00s Nissan you pass, until you set off someone's car alarm. Might not be the best way to make friends. That said, it might not be the remotes at all. WD21s are well known for their door locks triggering randomly as they get older. I don't know if R50s do the same thing, but I would not be surprised. If you catch it in the act of locking itself, note whether the corner lights flash at the same time. If the R50 works like the WD21, the lights flash if you lock it with the remote, but not if you trigger the locks manually. If the lights don't flash, you may have an electrical gremlin rather than someone stepping on your remote codes.

Got everything back together today. Cylinder 3 misfire. It's just dumping fuel...probably something stupid like I didn't fully clip in the coil, but I was too exhausted to troubleshoot any further.

Also had the engine torn down to change out the thermostats, gaskets on the rear water pipe, knock sensor, rebuild the fuel injectors, PCV, valve cover gaskets, etc. If you're going to rebuild them, get a kit with o-rings, pintle caps, and filters. Also get a filter removal tool; I was unable to remove a filter without one. Carb and choke cleaner with one of those pulse controllers off Amazon worked well to clean them, but it was a little on the messy side. And while not a Pathfinder, I tore down my Frontier on Sunday and got it to the body and paint shop. Time to bring it back to life! These pics are of the "good" side. The hood, roof, and passenger bedside are really bad. Paint shop will also do a spray-in bedliner (had a drop-in). Should have it back in a month, then will put new windshields, lenses, and rear bumper on. Btw, driving it without windshields is a blast. Driving without mirrors...not so much.

Bulk update for the past weeks of "What did I do..." Truck's still apart, coming up on a month now, but it's pretty close to being back together. Maybe all done this weekend. Here's how things were looking... Transmission was nasty. I bought myself a pressure washer at some point and zapped this clean. I can't believe don't have a pic of the cleaned unit with the 4:1 case installed. I did do this, though... Maybe it'll make for a nice junkyard find one day! Cleaned out the underbelly! What a mess. Was loaded with Sedona red clay. You can't see it, but I also sheared a flex plate bolt at the 6 o'clock position. That sucked to extract. I had intentions to replace the RMS, but like many people have discovered, it's not the seal, but the stupid gasket strip of the seal bracket. After reading up on what all it actually entailed, I said screw it. Cleaned up the area and laid down some gasket maker all over it. Should be fine/I'll regret it some other day. I did pull down the lower oil pan to clean up all the oil build-up over the years. Everything's way cleaner now. Once I had the transmission attached, I changed out the motor mounts. Almost didn't because of how terrible access is on the passenger side, but I'm glad I did... Installed a transmission cooler... Ran into a snag with some crappy catalytic converters off ebay last weeked...they absolutely do not fit the truck. After numerous failed fitment attempts, I eventually built a jig with the OE assemblies and fitted the new stuff into the jig to see how bad was and maybe if it could be reworked...nope. It's terribly misaligned, practically every component of it. The amount of incompetency feels deliberate. OE units jigged up: New units on the jigs. Holy gaps/alignment/crap! Since the upper cats weren't marked L/R, I tried every combination and rotation possible. What you see is the "best" combination, and also the only one that was close to being feasible. At this point, I'm just planning to clean up the OE units and put them back on. I'm past the return date, so these are a loss likely. Not even worth the effort to rework; the catalytic honeycombs are probably crap anyway. The OE units are probably still fine, but this main overhaul was just to totally refresh everything, since I kept throwing a P0430 (catalytic converter efficiency) over the years. The upstream O2 sensors were the original sensors, and judging by their condition, it may be the real cause of the code. L to R: LH & RH upstream (both OE), LH & RH downstream (both aftermarket). I don't blame the previous owner for never changing them. They're such a pain. The heat shields alone probably added an hour to the job, because they block the sensor hex. I still need to get the cats and a new exhaust on...hopefully no surprises there. The other day I also realized that t-case shifter arm is different between an R50 and a WD22 Xterra, which is what my donor t-case came from. The Xterra arm is longer, which prevented shifting into 2H. Swapping the arms was a bit of a pain...the pins that hold the arm onto the shaft are wedged in place. Took penetrant, heat, and a hammer and punch to get it out. I was able to get them swapped tonight, so shifting operations are back to normal.