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Ditto on everything above. Not applicable to your situation but I have top out occasionally on my current rears which are the Britpart LR9448s. I’m temporarily running old Bilstein 5100s while I figure out which 5165s to upgrade to. I basically only feel it under the conditions[mention=41155]R50JR[/mention] describes. Since I was adding weight up front, I put on my 97# bumper before switching to the ARB OME2928 to avoid this problem; however, the truck was dangerously front heavy on the old OEM set-up for the brief time I had it like that - so much so, I essentially drove it home & then only drove it to go back to [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] where he helped me change out the front set up. After that, I couldn’t even feel the bumper anymore. I positively love my front OME setup. It’s so nice that my wife spontaneously commented on it the first time she rode in it, just to the hardware store. It sounds like medium duty will fit your needs best.

If it's rust-free, fix it! They are great rigs that will reward your effort time and time again. I'd convert to Manual too, but I prefer manual.

So I mentioned a couple of posts ago that I noticed some rust stains around the top of the windscreen. My OCD wouldn't let me leave it alone. Windscreen needed replacement anyway, so out it came. Far better than I was expecting, some minor pitting and scale, all cleaned up and hit with rust convertor. Another sand and some primer Coat of generic rattlecan white and a coat of clear After that was done I filled the inner quarters and sills with fish oil, I do this to all my cars. The only other rust this car had was the bottom of the RHS guard I fixed in an earlier post. Also ran wiring for my 12v fridge/freezer before reinstalling carpet and seats. So now its a waiting game, I've ordered OEM replacement upper windscreen molding and retainer, waiting for those to come in the mail and obviously engine rebuild. More updates coming! Stay safe all FGF

Personally I'd stick to stock or very light tint on any window you want to see through at night. Tinted windows are like sunglasses, you don't want them at night (unless you're Corey Hart). The PO of mine tinted everything but the windshield and the sunroof. I don't know what percentage it was, but it was way too dark. It felt like I was driving a cave. I don't normally get claustrophobic, but, yeah, that crap had to go. I left the rear doors and the cargo area windows dark (can't see through those anyway), but swapped in a stock-tint rear window so I could see out the back, and stripped the front windows bare. I like the result a whole lot better. I don't know what the factory percentage is, but I would expect a place that installs window tints to have a meter they'd let you use, probably the same type the cops use. And yes, I would expect the % blocked to add up like that, assuming the films aren't polarized.

Completely agree that rear LR springs have really made all other options obsolete. Mine were $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from LR Direct - ordered on a Friday afternoon & on my porch in Seattle before noon on Monday. ARB OME HD in front will support the weight of a bumper, no problem. I have 97# up there - it was dangerous with my old OEM springs, installed ARB OME HD & struts & I can’t even feel it. Soon I’ll have another 70# with winch & lights & I expect it will take it fine. The OME rides better than stock - very nice! @02_Pathy had just about the best optimized 2” lift rig I’ve seen (he now has an SFD). Honestly, unless you’re a rock crawler, you really don’t need more than 2” lift.