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Axle swap/conversion is nearly complete. Fresh "orange sticker", too. In case anyone is curious, here's the size difference between an H190 and an H233:

Started my D22 project a few weeks ago. The fuel pump failed a few months prior, so I pulled the bed, replaced the pump, and got to work. I pulled everything off the frame except the tank, all of which got disassembled (even the leaf springs), cleaned up with a wire cup, painted, and reassembled. The rear axle conversion is nearly complete at this point. At this point, the main stuff that's left to do is finish up the parking brakes, shorten the driveshaft, and install the catback exhaust. As far as the disc brake swap goes, this time around the dust shields on the backing plates were in a good-enough condition to keep. The calipers needed a lot of work...the pistons were toasted by the previous owner (one of them had become molten at one point), so everything got rebuilt. I ran into a snag a few weeks ago when I realized I nearly all the parking brake hardware was missing. For reference, this is a complete assembly. The good news is that a 300ZX disc brake hardware kit (Carlson 17418) is nearly identical, and included almost everything. RockAuto didn't show any kits for a WD21, and this kit doesn't crossref either, but after a few OE part number lookups, I was able to confirm all the main parts (in particular the spreaders) and a few springs were the same or similar enough to chance. Left missing was the bigger metal piece near the top that separates the shoes (called a "strut") for both RH and LH sides, and one of those triangular-ish washers. The washer was also used on 300ZX, but dealers want $55(!) for it, and the struts are NLA...and were only used on WD21s. I was able to find a parts broker who can get 2 of the washers for $1/ea and a RH strut for a few bucks, but not the LH. Better that nothing, but there'd still be a problem if I couldn't find another. Of course, I could just use the truck without a parking brake (which is, unfortunately, typical of many homebrew swaps I've seen...no thanks.) Yesterday I went to a several JYs hoping to find another WD21, but no luck. At my last yard, I came across a 94 Honda Passport with disc brakes and figured that since it was another Japanese 6x5.5-bolt 100mm-bore setup from around the same time, maybe it'd be similar. The rotor's drum shape/size looked questionable, but I pulled it anyway. The internals looked very similar, but I couldn't confirm any dimensions at the yard, so I pulled the washers and struts and took a chance. Sure enough, they were practically identical...in fact, the washers were identical. The struts weren't an exact fit, but they were super close. The length was nearly spot on, maybe 1-2mm shorter between the throats than the OE piece (not entirely sure because I didn't pull apart my truck to find out), but the only fitment issue was that the throat on the lever side was just a little too narrow. A few seconds with a flat file, and they fit perfectly now. So anyway, if you're missing hardware, a hardware kit for a 300ZX, and bits from a Honda Passport/Isuzu Rodeo (and several other related applications) will do. It may also be the case that a similar parking brake hardware kit for those trucks works, too...looks very similar. (On a related note, parts from the vehicles have been used on D21/D22 2WD disc brake swaps for a few years.) With all that sorted out, I'm stoked I can move forward with the parking brakes. I'm taking a different approach to the cables than I did on the R50, and I think it'll turn out a lot better. The general idea is to splice the mounting foot from the WD21 cable onto the D22 cable. I've cut up a WD21 cable enough to get all the insulating boots/shields off it, leaving the foot that's crimped to the cable jacket. I'll cut the jacket a few inches down from the crimp, and then do a similar cut on the D22 cable (the cable needs to be extended a little during this process anyway). They'll be crimped back together with a 2/0 compression butt splice connector, then resheathed. Should look pretty stock when it's done. More to follow...

Correct. Also, both are 2-pinion open diffs. The H190 is a spare I picked up a few years ago to replace some busted side gears in the truck, and the H233 probably came from the D21 axle donor.

Yep, Honda and Isuzu had partnerships for a long while. Passport and Rodeo, Trooper and SLX (Acura). But yeah, dumb luck finding a part from those that would work. I only gave it a thought because I’ve seen the brake parts used on other Nissan conversions. I had exhausted my research skills trying to find similar Nissan vehicles, cars included, that might be similar. Despite the 300ZX having some cross refs, the other brake parts are vastly different.

Pulled the seats and carpet to a. have a look at the floor and b. run new speaker wires and fit some newer rear speakers. Gotta love these inland Aussie cars. How's that floor! Got rid of the 90s tech Hopefully more updates very soon! Stay Safe -FGF

If you have the inside snap rings on the u-joints, you gotta stick with inners. The outer joints are a different size anyway, and the yokes lack the ring-lands for outers. $400 for that work sounds like a very good deal.

Having the t-case down is the perfect time to put some crawler gears in. Absolutely, yes. The engine+transmission+t-case assembly relies on 3 mounts total; 2 motor, 1 trans, so the one in question is right before the t-case. Is the t-case leaking or is this just maintenance? If you're having a shop do it, I imagine any additional work (pulling the transmission) is going to quickly inflate labor costs unfortunately. However, I hear it's easier to pull the transmission and t-case down together if you're to do any work. @TowndawgR50 or @02_Pathy can confirm or deny that since they've done the work. Not sure if the VG33 has a rear crossover coolant pipe or thermostat, but if it does, that's surely a while-you're-at-it gasket job. Unfortunately, having the transmission down won't improve any access to the motor mounts. The diff bump just blocks too much of the driver's side mount. The passenger side is slightly improved, but still...it's a tight space to work in, even when the diff is down. I can't help much with the leak, though. I'm in a similar situation with some little trickle leak there.

Those are good looking steelies for sure!

So we are finally all moved in and although flat out working on our house, I have got the ball rolling again in this turd! Pulled it out and gave it a wash, installed a new stereo and have ordered a set of headers and a 32/36 weber kit. I've also found a machine shop to build the engine, so I will be getting the core form my parents house in a few weeks when I next make the trip in to Melbourne. I found a bit more rust at the top of the windscreen, it looks to be surface rust only but I'll be pulling the screen to have a better look in coming days, but not today or tomorrow as it's 41 degrees Celsius here today (106 F). Onward!

Fwiw, I had 31x10.5x15 on my 96 SE before lifting, on stock rims. No rubbing. I just put these on https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-69-series-vintage-15x8-wheel-with-6-on-5-5-bolt-pattern-flat-black-7069-5883/_/R-BKBQ-7069-5883 with 32x11.5x15 and a 2" lift. I've had to do a bit of trimming.

Faux carbon fiber came stock on this model for that year; I haven't replaced any interior trim. Good luck with that hum! Hopefully it's nothing major.