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Pretty close! The all-mode switch is in the OE spot. "2WD" controls my tire inflation/deflation setup, "AUTO" charges the system (for locker or quick-connect use), "4H" engages the rear locker, and "4LO" engages both lockers. I just put the full details on my TJM thread to not clutter your thread.

Well, more R50 fun this break! I took a family trip to the phoenix area, and of course had to hit up a few of the locals..... It was great having @hawairish and @R50JR show me some Arizona trails Views from the top Patrick was very kind to let me take his beast up some of the obstacles. His special "All mode" locker switch is awesome, and this thing absolutely walks anything you point it at. R50JR had no trouble keeping up (minus a few high clearance obstacles ) with his Lokka / super LSD combo either. We got some video as well, so we'll see how that turns out!

A flush mount angled camera would be your best bet...single hole, one and done. Drilling into the liftgate (or truck, for that matter) takes a little courage, but mask it off, double check your clearances inside the liftgate (particular for the wiper motor and linkages), and take your time. It is possible to get wiring through the liftage tube/grommet going into the chassis. I've run wiring there previously for some LED lights I installed. Just need a rigid wire to fish/pull wires through, and removal of all the trim liftgate trim and weatherstripping. For the reverse signal, you've some options: Behind the front passenger kick panel, one of the harnesses has a yellow wire that is the reverse signal. The harness will depend on whether it's AT or MT, but they're in the same area. The FSM details it (I can help with more info about your truck). Many cameras will have a power wire "tail" at the RCA side and a positive and negative lead on the camera side. The camera-side wires can be tapped into the reverse signals at the tail light with the pos/neg wires (or just pos from the reverse pos signal and ground the neg wire). You can then connect the tail wire to the reverse signal on the radio, without having to use the reverse signal from the kick panel. (The tail light will power the camera and signal the radio.) If the camera side signal wires aren't long enough to reach the tail light (plausible in your case if installing on the lift gate), but you plan to use the reverse signal at the kick panel, you can cap the pos wire at the camera side and just ground the neg wire. You then need to connect the reverse signal, radio reverse wire, and the camera's tail wire together (this will send the radio the signal and power the camera). If the camera lacks the tail wire, you'll have to use the reverse signal from the kick panel for the radio signal, and also the tail light for the camera's power leads. Note that if your radio supports live camera viewing, you won't be able to utilize this camera for it because the camera will only be powered when in reverse. I recently added a reverse camera to my truck as a Phase 1 project, and while it fits the immediate need, it's not the end product. Because of the tire carrier, I made a bracket and ran the wires externally along the frame: This setup is temporary, and I may even redo the camera mount to center it in the hub. Phase 2 setup will require rewiring this camera completely as part of a quad-view setup using front, rear, and forward- and rear-facing undercarriage cameras for trail use. The live views of those will probably make my wife throw up.

Long overdue update to my locker setup. The locker itself is great...still worth every penny. No problems whatsoever. Having since installed a few other ARB units in a few trucks over the years, I still prefer the TJM. Unfortunately, I have a feeling these won't be available much longer. I've made several changes to the onboard air setup that supports this over the years. I eventually moved the MV50 out from the cubby area because it was too loud. It was reinstalled under the hood: The 1/2 gallon air tank also got removed from the system. It was nice to have some reserve for air locker usage, but wasn't too useful for other functions because it just meant additional compressor run time to pressurize it. I may incorporate it on another project. At that time (I think), I had also wired in a digital pressure gauge in the glovebox plus installed air/Schrader valves at each tire for use with 3' whips for a tire inflation setup. The petcock gave me the ability to also dump air, which is nice to get everything to a consistent PSI. I also re-wired the digital pressure switch to have switches to manually override the power and relays for other functions. Made the whips with clip-ons, hose clamps, and a cut-up Harbor Freight air hose. Then in 2020, the installation of ARBs in Rockit's QX4 prompted the need for an air compressor in his truck, so I pulled my setup out, acquired cruise control parts to match his setup, and made some brackets to shoe horn an ARB into his truck: This took a lot more effort than I had anticipated because of the cruise control pieces. For reference, the space normally looks like this: I made 3 brackets total: one to move the pump closer to the fuse box, another to move the 'bulb' closer to the firewall, and then the compressor bracket that mounted to the strut mount: The original plan was for me to acquire a CMKA12 just for mocking up Rockit's setup, but the distributor for the shop I bought from sent me an open box unit, so I had to deal with some BS there. The shop cut me a discount and I just kept the unit and made myself a bracket for my truck: While at it, I added a small fuse box and some relays for future items. I also needed to rewire the digital pressure gauge a bit to handle another solenoid for deflation air dump, but also rearranged the plumbing to make it a little more compact for storing in the glovebox. Everything is still controlled through the all-mode switch: Didn't mention it earlier, but these panel bezels are interchangeable on the radio bezels. My truck originally had a panel with a pocket and 2 switch blanks, so I bought one for an LE. It just snaps into the bezel. The all-mode switch functions as such: 2WD: Inflation/deflation mode. I attach all the whips to the tires, and can either auto-inflate to my preset PSI on the digital pressure switch, or I can turn off the compressor and open the dump solenoid and/or petcock to deflate. AUTO: Compressor on; charges the system to 100 PSI for locker usage while driving, or for quick-connect usage (rear bumper and under hood) while stationary. 4H: Rear locker engaged. 4LO: Front and rear locker engaged. If I haven't mentioned it here previously, I hate dealing with pneumatics. These projects take so much effort to do. I have a slow leak somewhere and have no interest in finding it, let alone ever touching this system again.

Did you ever figure out if that's factory paint? I really dig the color.