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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/04/2020 in all areas

  1. The SE rack is riddled with challenges in general, but I can easily see a flat rack solving your problem there...and it'd be far easier than lifting a tire another foot higher to get into a basket, and really would keep everything very low. I'm hoping to be able to supply some brackets for DIY racks once we've got these racks ready for show-and-tell. I'm expecting the remainder of my hardware tomorrow, so I should have mine finished by week's end, and hopefully Rockit's too if I can get everything mailed out tomorrow. The racks are pretty much constructed as standalones, so it's just a matter of attaching them to the OE rails. For now I'm using 3/16" steel plate, but aluminum would be the way to go. We're also doing a lot of countersunk plates to really keep the looks clean.
    1 point
  2. yea, definitely getting rid of the wrong Pathy... And nothing crosses over. It's all different. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  3. I always liked some of the Rola units, but without some sort of lower crossbars or mounting options, they always looked goofy sitting above the OE crossbars. Beyond that, I'm not much help for alternative basket options. However, if you're looking for a lower profile "base rack" design with a ton of mounting provisions, consider some of the aluminum extrusion racks out there. They're pricey, and while some probably won't even fit our trucks without custom brackets, Prinsu universal racks (https://prinsudesignstudio.com/category/universal-top-racks/) and Smittybilt Adjust-a-Mount brackets (https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-AM-4-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00AQFE8BG) might be a viable option...albeit a $900 one, after tax, shipping, and some additional hardware. To that extent, my buddy @Rockit and I are in the process of making our own base racks out of extrusions that are made-to-order (cut-to-length and machined for assembly). I was planning to start a new thread on the topic when both racks were complete, but maybe some info here/now might spark some ideas. Cost-wise, we're also well under half the cost of the Prinsu setup, with a result that'll fit our exact needs. These slotted extrusions are great because you can mount practically anything, anywhere, and there are already a bunch of off-the-shelf accessories for Rotopax, Hi-Lifts, etc (Prinsu has a full line-up of them). I'm fabbing up all our mounting and accessory brackets, like awning mounts and lighting tabs, but also have some ideas for other items. But these racks are far more versatile options than any basket I can think of. They're also lightweight, extremely strong, and corrosion resistant. Cost is a little higher than an off-the-shelf basket might be, but the versatility makes it worth it. For Rockit's QX4, we're doing a 50"L x 42"W x 2"H rack using 2"x1" and 1"x1" quarter-round extrusions, with the LH side being 72"L for full awning support, like so: I made some brackets that'll get the rack about 1" off the center of the roof (the height varies because of the curvatures F/R and L/R on the roof), and around 1.5" at the corners. The brackets are also slotted so the rack can be raised another inch if we need clearance anywhere, or to level it out: Since I have an SE roof rack, mine will be a drop-in rack that's 52"L x 36", and uses 2"x1" and 1"x1" extrusions:
    1 point
  4. If the pump is running and giving good pressure, the engine runs on starter fluid, but not on the fuel in the tank, then either your fuel is very bad or the injectors are not firing.
    1 point
  5. This is an intentional feature of the forum, you're not supposed to attach pictures that way, hence why the file size limit is so small. IIRC that option only exists because it came along with a forum update a little while ago. If NPORA hosted everybody's pictures in addition to everything else, that would massively increase the cost of running the server. You'll need to host your pictures externally (there's several free services online to do this, don't use PhotoBucket) and insert the image by URL using the tool in the post editor. There's a couple how-to's in the pics and videos section of the forum. Let me know if you have further questions.
    1 point
  6. I'll add my set up because I'm getting issues and maybe this can help your case study. If there are any pinned lift threads, this should be involved. Sucks going through a build only to spend money on aftermarket CV's when they'll just break. CV Brand/PN: Cardone Markings: TBA Strut Brand/PN: Rancho RS5000 + OME HD Spacers: 1" SF Creations Binding: 2 - it binds on level ground. According to Rancho specs, the strut should match OEM dimensions, but I also have OME HD coils which according to their data adds 1/2" spring lift. With just this, I noticed light knocking but chalked it up to wheel rub on my bumper. Turns out it was light CV binding (1). I discovered this after installing the 1" spacer (1.5" total front lift) and the noise was accentuated, mostly at turns while driving. COULD be driven but we've determined it's unsafe to do so, thefefore level 2 binding. I think I might have my original CV's (please be OEM!) so I'm going to throw those back in and pray that works. After reading this post, I really hope your case study is right. Thanks for making the post.
    1 point
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