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The early R50 models were specced kind weird. The diff ratios weren’t based on the transmission but instead on the equipped tire size. For the 97 model year, at least in the US, the XE and LE were equipped with 235/70R15 tires, with the steel 15x6 chrome wheels on the XE, and spoked 15x6.5” alloy wheels on the LE. Both had 4.363 diff gearing. Because of the smaller tire size, they had a different steering rack with more throw that gave them a tighter turning radius. The SE models had 265/70R15 tires, with slightly lower diff gearing (4.636:1) to account for the taller tires. They also had a steering rack with less throw, resulting in a wider turning radius. If you want to install bigger tires, you will have no problems fitting 30x9.50R15 on the chrome wheels. You might even squeeze 31x10.50 on those wheels but you might have slight rubbing on the right inner wheel well, especially when turning fully right, because of the combination of wheel width, wheel offset, tighter turning radius, and larger tire size. I know you’re probably on a tight budget, but if you so plan to continue modding this R50, I would advise running some inexpensive 30” tires for the next year or so while you save up for new 16x8 wheels and tires. Unless you do a lot of fender liner trimming, you won’t be able to fit 265/75R16 tires without a 2” lift. I have owned my 97 LE since 1998, and I went through all of these same issues, but I had to do so without the benefit of the internet. I spent a lot of money on trial and error getting my rig to its current configuration.

Golden Hour

Don't know with the R50, but with the WD21, the gearing in the axles was based on the transmission rather than the tire size. The manual trans trucks had the 4.3 and the auto trans had the 4.6 in the 4x4 versions at least. My 93 SE rear diff center section was swapped with my friends 95 XE because they were both geared the same. I wanted his open diff and he was happy with my LSD. Only problem we ran into was we litterally did the swap during the night before we went on a week of wheeling in Moab. No problem with mine, I have the rear disc and the lockright dropped right in with no issues. However, my friends XE was rear drum and we neglected to transfer the thrust block into the diff from my truck. Result was damaged axle seals that leaked gear oil into the drums, so his truck spent most of the week sitting in the camp. We got home, installed the block, replaced seals and brakes(again, thought it was just a fluke and did it in camp while in Moab and had the seals start leaking again while on the trails) and problems solved. His XE was originally equipped with 235's and mine was 31's. We put 31's on his stock 15x6 steel wheels and they fit fine. Did run the pressures at 26 psi to get a proper contact patch, but that was the spec anyway. He replaced the 95 with a 99 LE, and we put a set of 31x10.50 on the stock wheels. Other than some light rub at full lock, no problems there. His R50 is bone stock other than the tires, so 265 75 16's should fit the stock wheels just fine since they are very close to the same size as 31x10.50's.

I know with the WD21, Nissan got weird with the SE and XE. There were a lot of SEs with chrome steel wheels wearing the 235 75 15 tires, open diff, rear drums, and lacking the skid plates. While more rare, saw XEs with the off road package. I found a lot depended on planned location and dealers wants. It seemed the intermountain west was about the only region that a SE could reliably be equipped with the off road package with all the bells and whistles like the larger tires, skid plates and 4 wheel disc brakes. I think the R50 was probably similar at least for the first few years. For what it is worth, the 31" and 265 75 tires originally were mounted on 7" wide wheels while the 235 75 tires were most often mounted on 6" wide wheels. The LE was odd in that they were often the small tire mounted on a 7” aluminum wheel.

Never noticed any thread locker on Nissan intake bolts. I haven't used it on them either.

Replaced TPS with a brand new OEM part. My trans kept locking/unlocking so I would jam the gas peddle a bunch of times as quickly as I could, then it’d stop for a few months. One time I cut the car off out of anger and jammed the gas peddle a bunch. I had been thinking that jamming the gas peddle at the time the issue was occurring was what would make it go away. So I started it back up but the issue was gone. It returned in a month or so just like it had been and then I thought that maybe the TPS wiper had a build up of copper particles on it causing intermittent signals to lock/unlock the torque converter. I figure over time the contacts have been worn down by the wiper or the wiper itself is worn down and the particles are building up along the path of the wiper, specifically the contact area where the throttle stays in most often which would be highway cruising. The only thing that could possibly have anything to do with the transmission by hitting the gas peddle with the car off is that TPS! Right off the bat the 1 to 2 shift is very noticeably softer.. and the 2 to 3 shift seems to be faster at low acceleration. That TPS may have been bad for some time. Of course my other transmission didn’t have a single issue whatsoever with this same TPS. Update: The improvements listed above are definitely there. I also notice that it no longer stays in 3rd gear when taking off from a rolling stop which would cause very poor acceleration. In general, the vehicle drives much better. I am still a little slow taking off from red lights and such compared to newer cars around me but there are a lot of instances where I have the power I need to drive normally with traffic because the transmission selects the correct gear for acceleration. A heap of confidence has returned!

Son of a.... That's the problem I've been having, and I took my cap off other day and noticed the rubber seal was all &*(%ed. It's folder over like someone put the cap on off kilter and crushed the rubber. Well atleast now I know how to get that light to turn off, Now I just need a new cap.

Just to follow up. The rubber boot on the inside of the brake master cylinder reservoir cap was folded over funny and was pushing on the switch in the reservoir. I set the boot straight and it's been fine