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Pano didnt upload in quality, my apologies Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

Yes. You first need to remove the dash bezel (2 screws on the bottom, and tension clips above the vents). Then pull off the fan speed and temp control knobs. The faceplate pops off to reveal the bulbs.

Went up some Forest Roads near Kaslo, BC Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

Yes, I have done it. All of the instrument cluster and AC control lights in mine have been converted to white LED (which ends up looking slightly bluish due to the color temperature.) They dim just like the OEM bulbs. I think I got mine at superbrightleds.com. Sorry, it was so long ago that I forgot which bulbs I used, but you will want to choose bulbs that have the greatest number of LEDs mounted omnidirectionally.

While not a bad idea to upgrade, it’s worth noting I ran 750w of forward lighting with a stock alternator & an Optima Red Top for over a decade with no problems. (I would, however, recommend a deep cycle AGM battery like an Odyssey or Northstar/X2 Power - avoid Optima these days - just not the battery they used to be).

What are the conditions under which the vibration occurs? Vibration could be caused by worn U-joints. It could also be caused by the slip yoke not being sufficiently engaged with the splines of the output shaft. This would be more likely with a large suspension lift. It's not too hard to remove the rear driveshaft. Before you do, wiggle the front of the driveshaft near the slip yoke. If there's a lot of play, that could indicate the slip yoke needs to be slid over the output shaft more fully. You'd need to lengthen the driveshaft or somehow make a pinion yoke driveshaft spacer to fix it. Check for worn U-joints by rotating the driveshaft and watching for slop in the U-joints. To remove the driveshaft, remove 4 17mm nuts/bolts holding the driveshaft to the pinion yoke on the rear differential. Once the driveshaft is free from the pinion yoke, you should be able to easily slide it out of the transfer case.

Depends on your particular needs. If all you're doing is some extra lighting, the stock alt is fine, maybe a decent battery upgrade would be advised, depending on how many watts you're drawing. If you want to run you SMD dual magnet 18" sub woofer with 5000 watts to each voice coil, you're gonna need that 270amp alt, maybe 2. lol -Kyle

It’s 3 pieces. Slip yoke, main shaft, and pinion yoke.

Dang I wish I had known about that radiator upgrade...