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Got a good flex pic last weekend, love this rig for camping!

I took a rough road, my exhaust broke immediately. I’ll have to pull the exhaust out and weld it up. The whole thing looks pretty terrible.. Also I’m not sure exactly when it happened but my wind visor broke off and is now gone. As you can see it needed to be replaced anyhow..

just barely used the sliders today, and found this difficult obstacle, which highlighted my need for a locker. With how the trail approaches this 2-3 foot step at a 90* angle, I couldn’t keep all of either my rear or front end perfectly in traction. I feel like a front locker would’ve pulled me right over. I’ll have the money here to swing one soon, but I’m worried about install-I don’t think I can do it myself

Looks to me like the rust started between the panels where they overlap. It's tough to protect metal when it's sandwiched together like that. Dirt and water wick in between and the seam rots from the inside out, and the rust that forms is bigger than the steel was, so it forces the seam apart. Seam sealer might've helped, at least for a while. I don't know where Nissan did or didn't put seam sealer on the R50s, but I don't see evidence of sealer in the pictures above. Engine heat and bracket placement probably didn't help, but IMO having an unprotected lap joint in a wheel arch was always going to cause problems.

Removing the shim will help with the positive camber. When you crank up the torsion bars it lift the front which pulls the tierods in closer giving you neg toe. You can do a diy alignment to get thr alignment closer to spec until get it professionally done. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I’m right there with you. My wife said I looked like I was 50 going on 20 : (

Fun little trip up to the hills to run on some mild trails, 1 rock wanted to high five my door, now I'm buying rock sliders lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Woah what a breath of fresh air! I never knew that replacing sway bar bushes could increase the enjoyment of driving this car! I replaced the front sway bar bushes over the weekend with new links in the post. Rear sway bar was removed for a few days while I wait for new bushes and links to arrive. I can't believe I put up with all the squeeks and rattles they were causing for 3 years! Anyways I've been trying to tidying up the car in a semi economical way lately: - replaced the mini lamps from the switches on the centre console. - replaced all seats with newer ones from a 2000 R50. - in the process of replacing all sway bar links and bushes. - established that I'm running an open rear diff, was kind of hoping for an LSD as a bonus but ah well... And here's a snap of NZ's South Island's east coast in winter!

Id recommend changing the water pump while your there. Especially if its never been changed. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Awesome thank you, i must now try to find a set of bars.

The valve reliefs on some engines are deep enough to make them non-interference. The Pathfinder VG33 is not one of those engines. The valve reliefs and the small cam profile mean the valves don't spend much time in harm's way, so your chances of a piston meeting a valve when the belt fails are lower than they could be with some other interference engines. I've read a few accounts on here of people getting lucky and getting away with just replacing the belt. (Keep in mind though that this definition of "lucky" still has you stranded until you can get it fixed.) If you don't get lucky, and a valve does meet a piston, the valve bends and doesn't seal anymore. When you replace the belt, you'll have no compression in that cylinder. Replacing valves means removing one or both cylinder heads (depending on how many valves are damaged). I got my '93 without a service history and replaced the timing belt myself (using the service manual and this writeup) before I started driving it. If its prior belt changes were done at the recommended service intervals, the one I removed probably had another 10k miles left in it, and it looked okay when I removed it. But I'd much rather do a (comparatively) small job on my schedule and have it over with than have it crap out without warning at a time/place of its choosing, get it towed, and then have to tear it down to a short block to repair it.

You need camber bolts to correct the suspension. They replace 1 or both of bolts that connect the knuckle to the struts. 2" or more of lift from spacers can potentially cause over extension of CV axles in off road situations so be careful.