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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/22/2019 in Posts

  1. Fun little trip up to the hills to run on some mild trails, 1 rock wanted to high five my door, now I'm buying rock sliders lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    4 points
  2. Went on a weekend shake down trip for the new suspension in the Cascades. I can really see why I’ve never heard a complaint about the ARB OME struts & HD springs. That’s a 97# bumper on there and the truck has never driven smoother or tighter. I’m looking forward to an A-Arm poly upgrade. I find the Land Rover 9448s a little rough but they improve with some load.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] thinks part of the rear issue may be my Tyler Morgan control arms as his truck is smoother in back. I’m running his old Bilstein 5100s while we figure out the right 5165s so that may be contributing as well. I think I’m getting a little top out now & then. Thanks again to[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who consumed three whole afternoons (until Midnightish) working with me to change everything over. It honestly would never have happened without him.
    4 points
  3. Hey guys, I just finished installing a suspension lift on my pathfinder. Front is new Rough Country UCA's with Rancho RS5214 shocks. Rear is JGC V8 springs, which I just bought new (MOOG CC782) and Rancho RS5116 shocks. In the front I adjusted the torsion bars to give a 1.5" lift, and the rear springs gave me 2.5 inch of lift. I think I need to raise the front a bit more to match the rear, but the issue is the UCA's are 1/4" from touching the bumpstops. Maybe I need lower profile upper bumpstops? any ideas? Also the front has excessive positive camber, hopefully the alignment shop can get it back in spec.
    1 point
  4. Found out last night, that the photo hosting site I use, Tinypic is shutting down, so I'm sure any and all pics I have posted will be disappearing. I'm going to save all the pics before it shuts down, I should have most if not all of them but want to save them just in case I don't.
    1 point
  5. Copying just a lil bit hahaha hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll get them Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  6. I mean sliders are cool and all, I can see how they might be useful, but are you sure your not just tryna copy me? Looks good dude. Can’t wait to see you get some sliders! And for our rigs to get more similar again?
    1 point
  7. Have you checked your radiator fan clutch? I actually removed mine and put in an electric radiator fan. Made a huge difference in AC temp when sitting or going slow. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  8. Next most beneficial mod after the lift is gonna be manual hubs
    1 point
  9. Woah what a breath of fresh air! I never knew that replacing sway bar bushes could increase the enjoyment of driving this car! I replaced the front sway bar bushes over the weekend with new links in the post. Rear sway bar was removed for a few days while I wait for new bushes and links to arrive. I can't believe I put up with all the squeeks and rattles they were causing for 3 years! Anyways I've been trying to tidying up the car in a semi economical way lately: - replaced the mini lamps from the switches on the centre console. - replaced all seats with newer ones from a 2000 R50. - in the process of replacing all sway bar links and bushes. - established that I'm running an open rear diff, was kind of hoping for an LSD as a bonus but ah well... And here's a snap of NZ's South Island's east coast in winter!
    1 point
  10. Alright, looks like I’ll order some amazon camber bolts up and get them fitted. Once this is corrected, I plan on doing sliders and front bumper soon. Maybe I’ll post a updated thread on our progress. Thanks a lot, and any insight on where to go next or specific upgrades would be super helpful! Cheers.
    1 point
  11. First off...you need to service the powervalve screws by backing them out and applying loctite to them. There’s a known issue where they can fall into the motor and cause catastrophic damage. The iacv gasket should also be replaced to avoid frying the ecu. Also....join the npora Facebook group. Far more activity on There. As far as rear coils....I’d go with wj coils or Land Rover coils. Depending on which Land Rover coils you get they will net you anywhere from 2 to four inches and are muuuuuch cheaper than ac with similar spring rates. If you’re gonna do an sfd....you won’t need front spacers as you’ll be building steel spacers as part of the sfd. Ac coils would work just fine for the front and lots of people use them with up to 6 inches of total lift
    1 point
  12. No doubt. Its entire life has been right here in the volunteer state. In the past 22 years i can only remember 1 maybe 2 instances were we had significant amounts of snow. Many times its been forecasted sending everyone in a stupor for milk, bread and eggs but nothing happened. We usually get blanketed here and there, but thats rare. Monday im calling Harper Infiniti and there going to fix this or "I'm burning the place down"! Not really, but ill definitely show my a$$. Lol!!!! Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
    1 point
  13. When I left mine exposed I got an intake full of water rather easily. I'd suggest ditching it, plugging up the hole in the bottom of the airbox, and putting a new hole (covered with mesh) on the top of the airbox. Should be nice and safe from water intrusion that way without having to buy an expensive snorkel.
    1 point
  14. No inconvenience here, def worth asking about. I think your case is a little unique, so it may have thrown a few of us off. But as MY1PATH mentioned, the ring thickness is just to account for minor deviations. The FSM does provide instructions on what to measure and how to pick the size, I’m pretty sure. But again, that applies to the ring inside the wheel hub. The part that pulled out on yours probably just uses a single size of ring, and the thickness of it probably isn’t relevant. Still, a new CV renders that discussion moot.
    1 point
  15. Probably the easiest, hassle free choice. While it may be repairable a new axle assembly will pop in fairly easily and quickly solving your problem all together. Afterwards by all means take apart the damaged axle and diagnose the problem, fix and keep it as a spare since both driver and passenger sides use the same part. Ive never seen an axle cleanly come apart at the joint like that. They tend to fail at the joint itself and have significant damage as a result so it would be beneficial for everyone to see what happened here.
    1 point
  16. Good point/observation, man. I had only taken a quick glance and thought the outer joint had pulled from the hub. It’s the center shaft that pulled from the hub. I’m not sure if the snap ring thicknesses apply here since it’s the center shaft and not the outer joint shaft that goes into the hub (I didn’t look closely enough at the pic). The outer splined part (visible inside the wheel hub) is what uses snap rings of adjustable thicknesses. I don’t think the inner part that is exposed uses different thicknesses, but am not sure. But, if you can’t get the shaft in, it may be due to the snap-ring still being in there, or some other obstruction that warrants its disassembly and repair/replacement.
    1 point
  17. Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub, remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart.
    1 point
  18. Thanks and too late. I was only supposed to fix the sag. Now my better half thinks it’s “too tall”
    1 point
  19. Haha it was nice to see how all of us guys the same problem has anyone ever fitted rear ac ? P.S i have 50 percent tint
    1 point
  20. I face a similar problem, but I think it's just the nature of the truck (insulation wise) and not any mechanical problem. Weather here this time of year is in the 110°-120°F (43-49°C) and I find that my truck just can't keep up cooling the interior, but it blows nice cold air just fine. When it's closer to 100°, it's more efficient of course. The difference is "hot" vs. "damn hot" in my case. Doesn't look like Dubai is too far off from those numbers.
    1 point
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