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I've been looking for an R50 for a while now, and went to check out a few that were posted on FB/Craigslist today. I ended up walking away with this diamond in the rough. It's a 1997, 4WD, with the LSD (of *course* I checked for the sticker...before even test driving it!). It's got around 220k on the clock, but the previous owner had taken very good care of it. No real leaks, the interior is clean, and while it's got a few little bumps from being 22 years old, the paint is surprisingly not completely oxidized (pretty common in Arizona heat). I'm going to spend the summer just combing through everything and getting it back to 100%, but the first mod on the list is tires and a mild lift. Maybe a keyless entry for convenience before that.

Sorry, but this thread is nonsense. It’s maybe the 3rd or 4th post where you’ve claimed that everyone’s giving you BS about rebuilding a diff. Well, considering I’m one of those guys who has provided plenty of information through forum posts and direct messages—the same guy who has rebuilt several of these units, done numerous axle projects, who hoards Nissan diffs and axles, and even offered to send you a completely rebuilt unit when you first started complaining about it—I’m trying to not take this personally. But frankly, I think you’ve got some unrealistic expectation from all the shops you’ve contacted and are probably poorly conveying the problem, and it’s these posts that are becoming BS. Seriously, you’re asking about what is effectively an SAS without steering components, yet you won’t just go to a damn junkyard, pull a <$200 differential from practically any Pathfinder, Hardbody, Frontier, or Xterra, check the backlash with a $10 tool, and swap it in? A day, tops, in labor, <$300 in parts and fluids, and access to the exact Factory Service Manual used by Nissan technicians, to be done with this problem? You even have an opportunity to improve your driving and towing characteristics (via upgrade to LSD and/or lower gearing for a whopping $0 extra), without having to deal with any of the front gearing because you’re 2wd?You’ve got to be kidding me! Face the fact that most shops don’t have experience rebuilding Nissan diffs because they probably don’t fail often. But any drivetrain or off-road shop can simply rebuild that diff for whatever they charge Toyota guys. It’s the exact same design, and it’s a trivial one requiring little more than hand tools to swap, and not much more to rebuild. Bearings can be bought on RockAuto, and diff gaskets from Nissan for cheap. And the FSM describes every single step to do it! But here we are talking about swapping entire axles from Fords! I can tell you it’s significantly harder than just going to a junkyard and buying an axle from a Pathfinder, and yet still more difficult than just pulling the diff. I say get your hands dirty or get rid of the truck if this is really the hassle and decision you’re facing.

ALWAYS WITH ME Up Front: Bible Kahr Arms CW45 100 Rounds 45ACP Deodorant (Red Spice Fresh) Laser Pointer 3" Knife Business Cards Phone Charger Lighter In Back: Change of clothes (gym shorts, socks, underwear) 1 Gallon 5W30 1 Gallon SAE30 Turbine Oil (power steering or in emergency transmission) 1 Quart Brake Fluid 1 Gallon Distilled Water Can of Penetrating Oil Can of Copper Anti-seize Assortment of 30k# Nylon Slings Assortment of 15k# IWRC Wire Rope Slings 4 17k# Shackles 2 Snatch Blocks Small Tool Box (3/8" socket set, 6-19mm wrenchs, screw drivers, etc etc) 21mm Socket and Breaker Bar EXTRAS WHEN CAMPING In Back: Beretta Silver Pigeon Pump 12ga. 100 Shells 12ga. 100 Rounds 45ACP Chain Saw (STIHL) Axe Tent 5 Gallons Drinking Water Cheap Cooking Oil (for easy camp fire startup) Coffee Food

Nice to see you on here. I’ve got an 01 Q and I’m in surprise AZ. Hit me up if you need any help with anything

Welcome. Like the blue! Used to have a pre facelift r50 myself years ago. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

That looks like it took a ton of patience!

Saturday I welded my exhaust back together.. it was extremely difficult! I had to turn the MIG all the way down to 14 volts and wire speed was at 85. I basically had to spot weld the crack all the way around until it was completely solid, then I drug the weld over the spots for larger surface area penetration. If I slowed down at all it’d blow a hole in the pipe instantly.

It has facelift wheels, same ones I had before I got new ones

Maybe the snap-ring never got reinstalled, or wasn’t fully seated? Might be sitting inside the wheel hub. If missing, might be able to substitute it with another from the hardware store, but note that the snap-rings are specific thicknesses for providing the right amount of play, and there were part numbers for each thickness...you may need to order the replacement from Nissan.

She looks good! Really beefy. The bumper deletes and black trim is pretty awesome

If you have a 4x4, gear ratios will be a big issue. Parking brake will be an issue, and you'll probably have to get custom brake hoses to connect from the Pathfinder body to the Ranger axle. Is the width of the axles similar? Your bolt pattern will be different too, so you'll have to get new rear wheels and have it mismatched so you can't rotate your tires. Not to mention actually bolting the axle under the truck, which will require a good deal of custom fabrication. Honestly you'll be far better off getting a good condition used R50 axle from the junkyard if you can't find a shop you want to commit to for rebuilding your current axle. If you think finding a shop to give you a rebuild quote is difficult, see what happens when you bring up a Ranger axle swap; most fab shops will probably just try to avoid getting involved entirely.

Popped by the paint shop to check on the Troutfinder and it was done, so I brought her home and put her back together-Mostly! Complete color change. Color is Thunder. Toyota color from the 2018 Toyota 86. Pre-pictures are over in the Garage forum. Really like the outcome. It came out Sick! More of the blue comes out when in the shade as can be seen in some of the pics. They were supposed to leave the decals off of the back. I was gonna paint them flat black or just leave them off. Gonna have to prep them and spray them black now! Daylight was running out, so I still have to put the rear tire, jack and rod cannon back on. Although I'm debating the cannon or switching over to an awning. Next up: -Put the interior back together -Build custom slim line nerf bars from stock mounting hardware. -Cleaning and painting the under carriage black including visible exhaust piping, accenting some pieces in Red. -Detail the engine and engine compartment-Blackout with Red accents.

Yes especially wives and husbands. Nice pair, love the truck!

+1 on keeping the strap. Another option is use ratcheting strap as I did, since I cut the strap too soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely keep strap intact as others have said, don't want it to get longer and give you more work. 5100's are particularly hard to compress by hand compared to other shocks.

Wow, big haul! Here I was feeling accomplished that I stripped heated seat wiring out of a junkyard this weekend haha, can't wait to see how you put those gauges to use.

Nice haul brother! Your attention to detail is awesome. It has in part inspired me to do a little detailing of my own! Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

Keep the strap intact, place the top side on the truck, cut the strap and as the shock slowly extends guide the lower bushing over the axle side mount.

I BARELY got them on brand new, gave my arm a workout. According to @02_Pathy, you’re best bet is to connect bottom bolt first then push down from the top, although I’m living proof that it can be done the other way. Orientation is boot down for the most effective draining, but I run opposite cause I like seeing the chrome. I’ve seen other vehicles do the same